An upbeat, boxy cropped sweater worked top-down in DK weight yarn. The gingham effect is achieved using three colors: a background (MC), a vertical-stripe color (CC1) and a horizontal-stripe color (CC2). Where the stripes overlap you can either carry a third darker color (CC3) as a planned third color or duplicate-stitch the overlap after knitting for simpler construction. Construction: top-down raglan yoke, divide for sleeves and body, work body to cropped length in gingham chart, finish with 1x1 rib. Recommended ease: ~6"/15 cm positive for a relaxed boxy look. Model shown wearing size S with ~6" positive ease.
XS (S, M, L, XL, XXL): 36 (40, 44, 48, 52, 56) in / 91.5 (101.5, 112, 122, 132, 142) cm
From back neck to hem: 15 (15.5, 16, 16.5, 17, 17.5) in / 38 (39.5, 40.5, 42, 43.5, 44.5) cm — cropped; adjust as desired.
Stockinette: 22 sts x 28 rounds = 4" / 10 cm, measured after blocking. Rib: 24 sts = 4" / 10 cm.
Suggested: Light DK or DK weight, 100% wool, wool blend, or superwash according to preference. Provide yardage both Imperial and Metric.
Example skein size (Imperial & Metric): 225 yds / 205 m per 100 g skein (adjust skein counts to match your chosen yarn).
Use smooth circular needles for the yoke and magic loop or DPNs for sleeves. Alternate between two sizes if you need to match gauge.
CO = cast on; k = knit; p = purl; st(s) = stitch(es); RS = right side; WS = wrong side; PM = place marker; SM = slip marker; M1R/M1L = make one right/left; K2tog = knit two together; SSK = slip, slip, knit; yo = yarn over; tbl = through back loop; rnd(s) = round(s); patt = pattern; rep = repeat; dpn = double-pointed needles; MC/CC1/CC2/CC3 = colors.
Use provisional CO or stretchy CO. This yoke uses 4 raglan increases each round and begins with a short garter/1x1 rib neck if desired.
CO 88 (96, 104, 112, 120, 128) sts with MC onto long circular. Join to work in the round, being careful not to twist. PM for beginning of round.
Work 1x1 rib (k1, p1) for 1" / 2.5 cm using smaller needles if you want a neater neckline, or work 6 rounds of garter tab if you used provisional CO and plan to pick up a neckband later.
Switch to main needles (US 6 / 4.0 mm). Set raglan markers: place markers after these four sections as you begin increases: Right Shoulder, Right Sleeve, Left Front, Left Sleeve, Left Back (pattern below defines counts precisely as you increase).
Round 1: *K to 1 st before marker, M1R, K1, SM, K1, M1L* repeat at each raglan marker. Work every other round. Continue until you have the following stitch counts for total circumference (before dividing):
Work increases until total stitches = 160 (172, 184, 196, 208, 220) sts — this yields approximately the finished bust sizes shown. Keep raglan increases neat: make increases by lifting running thread between sts and knitting through back/ front as M1L/M1R so there are no holes unless you prefer the small holes as a design detail.
When yoke increase rounds are complete, place sleeve sts onto holders as they arise and join for body. Typical division:
Sleeve sts: each sleeve = 36 (38, 40, 42, 44, 46) sts placed on holder (exact depends on your raglan count). Body stitches = remaining sts to reach body total given above.
Body is worked in the round in stockinette with the gingham color pattern. Work hem rib for 1" / 2.5 cm (optional) using smaller needles before beginning gingham pattern, then switch to main size for the gingham. If you prefer a clean cropped edge, work hem first then pick up and work color pattern upward; top-down you'll likely start gingham immediately after division — pick the approach you prefer.
Pattern Repeat: 8 sts x 8 rnds (repeat across body)
Charted idea (text description):
Repeat these 8 rounds around, adjusting vertical block alignment every repeat to produce the alternating checkerboard. You can shift the 8-stitch blocks by 4 sts on alternating 8-row repeats to produce the classic gingham staggered effect: odd 8-row repeats start pattern at stitch 1; even 8-row repeats start pattern at stitch 5 (k4 MC, k4 CC1 becomes k4 CC1, k4 MC) — this offset creates the checks.
Tension: carry non-working colors loosely across the back and catch floats every 3-4 sts if needed to avoid long floats.
Work the entire body in MC in stockinette. After finishing and blocking the piece, use duplicate stitch to embroider CC1 vertical stripes and CC2 horizontal stripes; where they cross, embroider CC3 or double-cover to create the overlap. This avoids stranded tension management and is an excellent beginner-friendly option.
Pick up sleeve sts from holders onto needles and work in the round. Optional: work first 1" / 2.5 cm of rib with smaller needles. Then work sleeve in stockinette. You can carry the gingham onto sleeves (recommended to continue pattern) or keep sleeves MC plain. For a balanced look, continue the gingham 1:1 with the body pattern; for simplicity, knit plain MC.
Around shaping: if you want slightly wider sleeves, work increases every 6th round until sleeve circumference = 12 (14, 16, 16, 18, 20) in / 30 (35.5, 40.5, 40.5, 45.5, 51) cm measured flat across the sleeve (adjust to taste).
Weave in ends on wrong side; if you used stranded colorwork, tuck carried colors neatly and trim to tidy floats. If you prefer a neater neckline, pick up stitches from provisional CO and graft or pick up and knit a small neckband in 1x1 rib.
If your colorwork puckers, loosen the tension on the floated strands; if there are long floats, catch them every 3-4 sts. If the neckline is tight, pick up the provisional cast-on and add a wider ribbed band.
After yoke and division for body: Body sts: 112 (120, 128, 136, 144, 152) — work in 8-stitch gingham repeats across these sts.
Pattern questions, errata and updates: visit purljam.verde.uk or email support: team@verde.uk. Share makes with #purljam on social media.
Happy knitting — enjoy your crisp checks and boxy cropped silhouette!