3x3 Rib Men’s Sweater — Brown (8-gauge)

Machine gauge: 8-gauge machine. Hand-knit equivalent gauge: 32 sts = 4” (8 sts/in) in stockinette (approx). This pattern makes a classic round-neck men’s sweater with a 3x3 rib body and 2x2 rib sleeves. Written for sizes S (M, L, XL, XXL). Brown colour; substitute any brown yarn of the recommended weight.

Materials

Yarn: Fingering (4-ply) recommended for 8-gauge machine or hand-knitting to the gauge below. Typical yarn: 400 yd (366 m) = 100 g. Estimated yardage per size: S 1000 yd (914 m) — 250 g (8.82 oz); M 1100 yd (1006 m) — 275 g (9.70 oz); L 1200 yd (1097 m) — 300 g (10.58 oz); XL 1350 yd (1234 m) — 338 g (11.91 oz); XXL 1500 yd (1372 m) — 375 g (13.23 oz).
Machine: 8-gauge standard domestic knitting machine (use waste yarn and ribber if available for full-band 3x3 rib). If hand-knitting: Needles: Metric 3.0 mm; US 2½ (US 2.5 commonly listed) ; UK (old) 11. Use circular needles 32”/80 cm for body in the round and double-pointed needles (DPNs) for sleeves or small circulars for magic loop.
Notions: Stitch markers, scrap yarn, tapestry needle, measuring tape, waste yarn, optional stitch holder, blocking tools.

Needle Equivalents

Machine: 8-gauge.
Hand: Metric: 3.0 mm. US: 2½ (commonly shown as US 2.5). UK (old): size 11 (approx equivalent).

Gauge

32 sts x 40 rows = 4” (10 cm) in stockinette on 3.0 mm (hand) or tuned on an 8-gauge machine. Rib gauge will pull in; work a swatch in 3x3 rib and measure relaxed width. Adjust needle tension or machine dial to achieve correct stitch density: 8 sts per inch (approximately).

Finished Measurements (approx)

S: Chest 38.25” / 97 cm (cast-on 306 sts @8 st/in).
M: Chest 40.5” / 103 cm (cast-on 324 sts).
L: Chest 42” / 107 cm (cast-on 336 sts).
XL: Chest 44.25” / 112.5 cm (cast-on 354 sts).
XXL: Chest 46.5” / 118 cm (cast-on 372 sts).

Sleeve Finished Circumference (approx)

S: 14” / 35.5 cm = 112 sts (2x2 rib multiples of 4).
M: 15” / 38 cm = 120 sts.
L: 16” / 40.6 cm = 128 sts.
XL: 17” / 43.2 cm = 136 sts.
XXL: 18” / 45.7 cm = 144 sts.

Abbreviations

K = knit; P = purl; CO = cast on; BO = bind off; st(s) = stitch(es); RS = right side; WS = wrong side; rnd = round; dec = decrease; inc = increase; patt = pattern.

Construction Overview

This garment is knit bottom-up in the round for the body with set-in sleeves (seamed into armholes) and finished with a round neckband in matching 3x3 rib. Sleeves are worked in the round from cuff up in 2x2 rib and set in.

Notes Before You Start

The 3x3 rib requires multiples of 6 sts. The cast-on stitch counts above are chosen so the full body round is a multiple of 6. If you need to adjust chest size, change in multiples of 6 sts (0.75” increments at 8 st/in).
2x2 rib sleeve requires multiples of 4 sts; sleeve cast-on counts above are multiples of 4.
Measurements are finished measurements; give 3–6” ease depending on preference. Adjust stitches accordingly.

Body — Machine Instructions (8-gauge)

Set machine to rib setting appropriate for 3x3 (use ribber / tubing if your machine supports 3x3; if not, you can emulate by hand shaping or use a hand-knit method). Cast on the number of stitches for your size (see counts above) in a full circular set-up. Place a marker for the beginning of the round.
Work in 3x3 rib (K3, P3) for 2” / 5 cm to form the hem.
Continue in 3x3 rib until piece measures to underarm: S 18” / 45.7 cm; M 18.5” / 47.0 cm; L 19” / 48.3 cm; XL 19.5” / 49.5 cm; XXL 20” / 50.8 cm. Measure from cast-on edge.
At underarm, place front half of stitches on a holder or transfer to waste yarn to work flat; leave back half on machine to work back, or vice versa depending on your workflow. (If your machine supports shaping, you may work armhole shaping there.)

Back

With back stitches on the machine, continue in 3x3 rib for armhole depth 9” / 23 cm total from underarm. (If you prefer shorter/longer armholes, adjust.)
Shape shoulders: Bind off each shoulder in three sections if desired to create a gentle slope. Example method (adjust to your stitch count): bind off 12 sts at each shoulder edge twice, then bind off remaining shoulder sts (this is illustrative; match numbers to your back half count and divide shoulder shaping evenly). Alternatively, if using machine, hold the center sts for neck and bind off shoulders by transferring shoulder sets to waste and grafting or using three-needle bind-off later.
Back neck: At the top center of the back, bind off the center 20 sts (adjust center bind-off to maintain rib multiples; you want a neck width of approx 7”–8” / 18–20 cm). Work each shoulder separately for a couple more rows then bind off.

Front

With front stitches on machine or needles, continue in 3x3 rib until armhole depth equals the back’s armhole depth minus 1” / 2.5 cm (i.e., make front neckline slightly lower). For our pattern, work front until 8” / 20.5 cm from underarm, then begin neck shaping.
Neck shaping: Bind off center stitches to create the round neck. Example: bind off center 56–68 sts depending on size (aim for a 7–8” neck opening). Note: keep remaining stitches on each shoulder to be equal and maintain rib multiples across shoulder pieces. Work each side separately, decreasing 1 st at the neck edge every RS row 3–6 times to round the neck until desired depth is achieved.
When front and back reach same shoulder height, bind off remaining shoulder stitches (or leave for three-needle bind-off) to join shoulders.

Sleeves

Work sleeves flat on the machine (if supported) or in the round by hand.

CO sleeve stitches in 2x2 rib: cast on counts listed earlier for your size (S 112, M 120, L 128, XL 136, XXL 144). Join in the round carefully without twisting and place a marker at the start of round.
Work 2x2 rib (K2, P2) for cuff: 2” / 5 cm.
Switch to stockinette (or continue rib for a fitted look) and begin increases for sleeve shaping. Increase 1 st each side of a pair of markers every 1.5” / 4 cm until you reach the upper-arm stitch count recommended for a comfortable fit. Example increase scheme for these sleeve cast-ons: increase evenly until the sleeve reaches the finished circumference listed above (for example S reach 112 sts; if you prefer a fuller sleeve, add 8–12 sts evenly).
Work until sleeve length from cuff to underarm = approx 18” / 46 cm (or length desired). Bind off and set aside. Repeat for second sleeve.
Set-in sleeve: With body finished and armholes bound/shaped, pin sleeve into armhole and sew using mattress stitch for a neat join or grafting where possible. Ensure rib pattern aligns at seam lines. Work a few mattress-stitch rows to blend rib edges.

Neckband

Pick up stitches around the neck opening in a multiple of 6 for 3x3 rib. Using smaller circular (3.0 mm) or machine ribbing, pick up approximately 3 stitches for every 4 rows (adjust to keep 3x3 rib alignment). Typical pickup may be ~140–170 sts depending on neck size; pick up evenly.
Work 3x3 rib for 1.0–2.0” / 2.5–5 cm, depending on desired band height.
Bind off loosely in pattern. If machine, transfer to ribber and set a slightly looser tension for bind-off.

Finishing

Weave in all ends neatly.
Block gently to measurements: soak, press out excess water, pin to finished dimensions and allow to dry flat. Rib will relax and even out.
Check sleeve set and shoulder seams, adjust if needed.

Hand-Knit Equivalent (if you are not using a machine)

Use circular needles 3.0 mm (US 2½ / UK 11) and follow the same counts above. CO for body in the round, work 3x3 rib hem and body to underarm, then split and work front and back flat for armhole and neck shaping as described. Sleeves in the round on DPNs or small circulars in 2x2 rib.
Because hand-knitting 3x3 rib can be tight, you may want to go up one needle size for the ribbed areas (e.g., 3.25 mm) and 3.0 mm for body stockinette if you need to hit gauge; always swatch in 3x3 rib and relaxed width.

Sizing Adjustments

To increase chest 0.75” (2 cm), add 6 sts (one 3x3 repeat) around the body. To widen sleeves maintain multiples of 4 for 2x2 rib.
To lengthen body or sleeves, add rows before underarm/sleeve cap shaping in multiples that preserve rib pattern.

Troubleshooting & Tips

3x3 rib wants to pull in; always check relaxed measurements. If rib looks too tight, drop needle size for stockinette or loosen rib tension on your machine slightly.
When picking up for the neckband, pick up fewer stitches than you think; too many picked-up sts will flare the band.
Use scrap yarn to hold stitches when splitting for armholes to preserve your round continuity and ease seaming.

Reference Measurements & Stitch Counts (Quick)

S: CO 306 sts; split half = 153 for front/back; sleeve CO 112 sts.
M: CO 324 sts; half = 162; sleeve CO 120 sts.
L: CO 336 sts; half = 168; sleeve CO 128 sts.
XL: CO 354 sts; half = 177; sleeve CO 136 sts.
XXL: CO 372 sts; half = 186; sleeve CO 144 sts.

Final Notes

This pattern is written to be adaptable: the machine-specific steps give the workflow for an 8-gauge domestic machine; the hand-knit instructions provide needle equivalents and the same shaping approach. Because rib multiples drive stitch counts, keep adjustments in the multiples specified (6 for 3x3 body; 4 for 2x2 sleeves). For pattern support, contact team@verde.uk. Published by PurlJam at https://purljam.verde.uk. Share project photos with #purljam.

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