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purlJam

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Classic Aran Sweater - Detailed Knitting Pattern

Worked in aran weight yarn with bold cables, knit from the hem to the underarm in the round, separated for armholes and finished with set-in sleeves. This pattern gives full materials, needle conversions (US, UK old, Metric), gauge, stitch patterns, sized instructions XS (S, M, L, XL, 2XL) and step-by-step shaping notes so you can follow end-to-end or adapt for fit.

Designer notes

Construction: knit in the round to underarm, divide for back and front and work flat to shoulders, sleeves knit flat and seamed into set-in armholes. Ease: approximately 2" / 5 cm positive ease in these finished measurements. Cable terminology uses standard cable-cross notation; see abbreviations.

Website and help

Pattern hosted at https://purljam.verde.uk. Support: team@verde.uk. Socials: #purljam.

Sizes and finished measurements

Yarn and amounts

Aran weight yarn (sample used: 100% wool aran; typical yardage 220 yd / 201 m per 100 g). Substitute yarns with similar gauge. Approximate total yarn required by size:

Note: yarn yardage varies by maker. If substituting, buy a full extra skein for safety.

Needles

Gauge / Tension

18 stitches and 24 rows = 4" / 10 cm in stockinette on 5.5 mm needles (after blocking). Check gauge before starting; adjust needle size if necessary to match the gauge.

Abbreviations

Stitch patterns (multiple of 8)

This aran uses an 8-stitch repeat that you will work around the body. The repeat is designed so you can cast on any total number of stitches that is a multiple of 8. The supplied cast-on counts for sizes are multiples of 8 (see cast-on counts below).

Rib (2x2)

Row 1 (RS): *k2, p2; repeat from * to end.

8-st Aran cable repeat (worked in the round)

Pattern (work these rows in sequence; repeat every 8 sts across round):

Repeat Rounds 1-8 for body pattern. This gives an alternating cable effect when repeated around the garment.

Cast-on counts (body circumference, in the round)

These cast-on totals are multiples of 8 and approximate the finished chest at the gauge given. If you alter gauge, recalc: desired finished chest in inches x 4.5 (sts per inch at gauge) rounded to nearest multiple of 8.

Body (hem to underarm)

Using smaller needles (5.0 mm), CO your size number of sts using a stretchy cast-on. Join carefully being careful not to twist, place marker for beginning of round.

Hem rib: Work 2x2 rib for 2" / 5 cm.

Change to 5.5 mm needles. Begin cable pattern: Work 8-round cable repeat across the round until body measures to underarm (measure from cast-on edge to underarm): XS 16" / 41 cm; S 16.5" / 42 cm; M 17" / 43 cm; L 17.5" / 44 cm; XL 18" / 46 cm; 2XL 18.5" / 47 cm, ending with a full repeat row as needed.

Divide for armholes and work back and front flat

At underarm, place markers to split the body into Front and Back halves. For an even split: place marker after half the stitches (e.g., XS: 76 sts / 152 total). Work back and front separately, turning at each end and working flat. You will shape the armhole by binding off a small number of stitches at each side and decreasing at the edges on WS rows to create the set-in sleeve seam allowance.

Armhole shaping (example, adjust if you prefer deeper or shallower armhole): Bind off 6 (7, 8, 8, 9, 10) sts at the start of the next two rows (one for each side). Then decrease 1 st at each armhole edge every RS row 2 times. Continue until armhole depth from underarm measures 8.5 (9, 9.5, 10, 10.5, 11) in / 22 (23, 24, 25, 27, 28) cm, or as required for sleeve cap shaping. Keep cable pattern centered on each piece; if a crossing occurs at a bound off edge, work cables up to the bound off edge before binding off.

Back

After splitting, work the Back flat: follow cable pattern across your back sts. Shape armholes as above. When armhole shaping is complete, work shoulder shaping and back neck as follows:

Back neck and shoulders: Work straight until armhole depth reached. Then bind off center 14 (14, 16, 16, 18, 18) sts for back neck, working each shoulder separately. On each shoulder edge bind off 6 (7,8,8,9,10) sts twice (or in three steps for a sloped shoulder) to shape shoulders evenly so they match front shoulders. Put shoulder sts on stitch holders.

Front

Work front flat in same pattern, but begin neckline shaping earlier. When armhole shaping is complete, continue until front measures same distance from underarm as back to beginning of neck shaping. Then begin neckline shaping: Bind off center 6 (6, 8, 8, 10, 10) sts and shape each side separately. On RS rows at neck edge decrease 1 st every RS 6 (8,8,8,8,8) times or until shoulder sts equal those of the back. Match shoulder bind-offs to the back pattern so shoulders align.

Sleeves

Sleeves are worked flat. Using 5.5 mm needles, CO the number of sts given below, work cuff, then increase to sleeve cap shaping and seam to fit armhole.

Sleeve cast-on and shaping examples (approximate numbers; adjust to match your armhole and gauge):

Sleeve cap shaping (general method): Bind off 6 (7,8,8,9,10) sts at start of next 2 rows; then decrease 1 st at each end every RS row until 2-3 stitches remain to match shoulder placement. The precise number of decreases depends on your sleeve upper-stitch count and armhole depth; always block and baste to check fit before final seaming.

Finishing

  1. Block all pieces to measurements. Important for Aran cables to relax and even out stitches.
  2. Sew shoulder seams with mattress stitch.
  3. Set in sleeves: Pin sleeve caps into armholes aligning underarm and shoulder seams, adjust ease so cap fits without bunching, and mattress stitch to seam.
  4. Sew side and sleeve seams. Weave in ends.
  5. Neckband: With right side facing, pick up evenly around neck with 5.0 mm needles approx 80--100% of bound-off neck edge stitches depending on stretch and preference; work 2x2 rib for 1 to 1.5" / 2.5 to 4 cm then bind off in rib. Alternatively pick up fewer stitches for a less floppy band and use smaller needle for firmer finish.

Blocking and care

Gently wash and block to measurements on flat surface, pinning cable definition into shape. Use wool wash and follow yarn manufacturer care instructions. Aran wool may felt if agitated; handle gently.

Notes and customization

Troubleshooting tips

Endnotes

This pattern gives a strong structural and shaping framework for a classic Aran sweater. The cable repeat is an 8-stitch module so you can change the number of repeats to suit personal measurements and gauge. If you need one-on-one help with altering cast-on numbers or shoulder shaping adaptations, check resources at https://purljam.verde.uk or contact team@verde.uk. Socials: #purljam.


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