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purlJam

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Argyle Long Cardigan with Pockets (DK) - Size Inclusive Knitting Pattern

Open-front long cardigan with classic intarsia argyle diamonds, roomy patch pockets and a clean, garter/I-cord front edge instead of a button band. Worked flat in panels (back, two fronts, sleeves) and seamed. Instructions given for sizes XS (S, M, L, XL, 2X, 3X). Finished measurements and yarn/needle options included so you can easily adapt fit.

Sizes (finished bust)

XS 31" (S 34", M 38", L 42", XL 46", 2X 50", 3X 54")

Suggested ease

Designed for ~0–4" positive ease depending on size and preference. Choose needle one size up if you want more drape.

Yarn

Approximate yarn requirements (MC = main color/back/background, CC1 = diamond color, CC2 = diagonal/contrast):

Notes: yardage rounded and shown as estimates for planning. If using a different skein size, convert meters/yards accordingly.

Needles and notions

Gauge

22 sts & 28 rows = 4" (10 cm) in stockinette on US 6 (4.0 mm). Check your gauge in the stitch pattern and adjust needle size if needed.

Abbreviations

Construction overview

Work back and fronts separately from hem up. After hem rib, optional: begin argyle intarsia panel (see Argyle section) for the body portion. Work to armhole depth, shape armholes, work to shoulder and finish. Sleeves worked in the round (or flat and seamed), patch pockets worked flat and seamed to inside of fronts. Edging: simple garter tab or I-cord pick-up along front edge — no button band.

Stitch counts to cast on

We use the gauge to calculate cast-on that match the finished measurements. Stitches are given for sizes XS (S, M, L, XL, 2X, 3X):

Hem rib

  1. Using US 6 (4.0 mm) circular, CO the number of sts for back or front. Join for circular if you prefer seamless hem for sleeves only; body pieces are worked flat: back and fronts are worked flat (do not join).
  2. Work 1x1 rib (K1, P1) for 1.5" / 4 cm (or 2" / 5 cm if you prefer longer hem).
  3. Switch to stockinette (RS rows knit, WS rows purl) for body — or continue circularly for sleeves.

Argyle intarsia placement

Argyle diamonds are worked in intarsia. Diamond motif: 16 sts wide x 24 rows tall (one diamond block). Diagonal contrast line (CC2) runs through the diamonds to create the classic argyle cross lines.

How to place diamonds:

  1. Count available stitches across panel after hem rib (back stitches and front stitches listed above). For each panel, plan an integer number of 16-st repeats across. Example: Front 43 sts will typically hold 2 repeats (2×16=32) leaving 11 sts of background (MC) to be distributed evenly at sides; center your motif horizontally in the panel.
  2. For the Back 85 sts (XS) you can place 5 repeats (5×16=80) leaving 5 sts background (or 4 repeats plus extra MC spacing for bigger diamonds). For larger panels use additional repeats. Center motifs vertically from about 3–4" above the hem so they sit in the lower-to-middle body; you can also repeat vertically for a column of diamonds if desired.
  3. Use separate bobbins for each intarsia block and twist yarns at color changes to avoid holes. Do not carry floats for intarsia — manage yarn with bobbins or small balls.

Argyle diamond chart (written concept)

Diamond is 16 sts wide x 24 rows tall. Simple written guide for 16-st diamond with MC background, CC1 diamond fill, CC2 diagonal accent placed on rows indicated:

Row 1 (RS): MC across.
Rows 2-24: Work shaping of CC1 diamond center by switching 1 or 2 sts to CC1 according to diamond "growing" and then shrinking. Introduce CC2 for diagonal lines every 6th row by substituting a single stitch in the diagonal path.
Row 24 (RS): MC across.

Note: providing a full chart printable PDF is recommended for precision. If you prefer, you can substitute a stranded/checker diamond motif or duplicate-stitch diamonds after knitting for an easier alternative.

Body shaping

Back

  1. CO 85 (94, 104, 116, 126, 138, 148) sts. Work hem rib 1.5" (4 cm).
  2. Switch to stockinette and begin argyle placement as described. Continue until the piece measures 16 (17, 18, 19, 20, 20.5, 21) inches / 41 (43, 46, 48, 51, 52, 53) cm from cast-on edge (to armhole). Adjust to personal armhole depth preference.
  3. Shape shoulders: Work shoulder bind-offs: divide stitches into 3 groups (left shoulder, neck, right shoulder) and bind off outer groups over 2–3 rows: e.g. for M (104 sts) bind off 18 sts twice with a 34-st neck opening; exact distribution: Left shoulder bind off 18 sts, work across 34 sts for neck, bind off 18 sts, leaving remaining sts for right shoulder. Repeat on the WS row if needed for slope. Alternatively, use short-rows to shape shoulders for a softened slope.

Each Front

  1. CO 43 (47, 52, 58, 63, 69, 74) sts. Work hem rib 1.5" (4 cm).
  2. Switch to stockinette, begin argyle panel centered on the front. Work until front piece measures same armhole depth as back to shoulder (measure from cast-on).
  3. Shape shoulder and neck: for open-front cardigan, shape the inner front (neck edge) by working a 1-st slope every RS row for 12 (13, 14, 15, 16, 16, 17) times to create a gentle neck curve. Bind off outer shoulder sts to match back shoulder count (mirror back). Keep the front edge raw for later I-cord/garter edging. Do not create button band; keep the front edge neatly finished.

Sleeves

  1. CO 66 (72, 77, 82, 88, 94, 99) sts on US 6, join in the round or work flat. Work 1x1 rib for 1.5" (4 cm) for cuff.
  2. Switch to stockinette (in the round: knit every round; flat: work in rows). Increase 8 (8, 10, 12, 12, 12, 12) sts evenly across the sleeve every 6th round until sleeve measures approx 16 (16.5, 17, 17.5, 18, 18, 18.5)" / 41 (42, 43, 44.5, 46, 46, 47) cm from cuff to underarm or until sleeve cap shaping point. Target bicep circumference equal to sleeve cast-on estimate.
  3. Cap shaping (if seamed): If sewing sleeves in, bind off 4 (4, 5, 6, 6, 6, 6) sts at the beginning of the next 2 rows, then decrease 1 st each end every RS row until cap fits armhole depth; mirror shaping on the other side. If knitting in the round, shape caps flat starting with short rows or bind off and seam.

Pockets (patch pockets)

  1. CO 28 (30, 32, 34, 36, 38, 40) sts. Work in stockinette or garter stitch to match front fabric for 7 (7.5, 8, 8.5, 9, 9.5, 10)" / 18 (19, 20, 21.5, 23, 24, 25) cm tall. Finish with 1.5" rib on top edge of pocket for strength (optional).
  2. BO. Make a second pocket to mirror the first.
  3. Position: place pockets on front panels so the top edge sits about 6–8" (15–20 cm) above hem or to taste. Sew pocket side and bottom to inside of front panel using mattress stitch. Leave top edge open.

Finishing

  1. Block all pieces to measurements — pin to exact dimensions and allow to dry.
  2. Seam shoulders using mattress stitch. Set in sleeves and seam sides/sleeves.
  3. Neaten front edges: pick up and work a neat I-cord along each front edge (pick up 3 sts for every 4 rows and work I-cord for 1.25" / 3 cm), or pick up stitches and work 6 rows of garter stitch for a soft facing. Do not add buttonholes.
  4. Weave in ends from intarsia carefully and secure bobbin tails so diamonds stay flat.
  5. Sew on pockets and tidy any loose floats. Add optional blocking-friendly elastic thread along shoulder seams if you want a more structured shoulder.

Notes on intarsia and color management

Customization tips

Blocking and care

Block gently to measurements using steam or wet block depending on fiber. DK yarn care varies by fiber — follow yarn label. For wool, hand wash and dry flat; for machine-washable DK (superwash), use gentle cycles and low heat or air dry to maintain shape.

Troubleshooting

For printable charted diamonds or a PDF with full charts, email requests to team@verde.uk.


Pattern notes and support: pattern and updates at https://purljam.verde.uk — support: team@verde.uk — socials: #purljam


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