Baby Top-Down Raglan Cardigan (DK)

Light, top-down raglan cardigan worked seamlessly for sizes Newborn–24 months. Written for DK / light worsted yarn. Easy to customize length; includes clear stitch counts, schematics, and finishing notes.

Sizes & Finished Measurements

• Newborn (0–3 m): Chest 18" / 46 cm; Body length (underarm to hem): 6.5" / 16.5 cm; Sleeve length (underarm to cuff): 6" / 15 cm
• 3–6 months: Chest 20" / 51 cm; Body length: 7.5" / 19 cm; Sleeve: 7" / 18 cm
• 6–12 months: Chest 22" / 56 cm; Body length: 8.5" / 21.5 cm; Sleeve: 8" / 20 cm
• 12–18 months: Chest 24" / 61 cm; Body length: 9.5" / 24 cm; Sleeve: 9" / 23 cm
• 18–24 months: Chest 26" / 66 cm; Body length: 10.5" / 27 cm; Sleeve: 9.5" / 24 cm

Yarn

DK / light worsted. Sample yarn specification: 100 g = approx 231 yds / 211 m (check your yarn label and adjust requirements).

Estimated yarn required (approx):

• Newborn: 160 yds / 146 m (~70 g)
• 3–6 months: 200 yds / 183 m (~90 g)
• 6–12 months: 275 yds / 251 m (~120 g)
• 12–18 months: 325 yds / 297 m (~150 g)
• 18–24 months: 375 yds / 343 m (~175 g)

Needles

Use circular needles for yoke and body (magic-loop or appropriate length).

• Main: US 6 / UK (old) 8 / 4.0 mm circular needle (24"/60 cm or longer for magic loop)
• Smaller: US 5 / UK (old) 9 / 3.75 mm circular needle (for ribbing)
• Double-pointed needles (DPNs) or second circular in same size for sleeves if preferred

Notions

• 4 stitch markers (contrast)
• Waste yarn or stitch holders (for sleeves)
• Tapestry needle
• 5 small buttons (size 9–12 mm) or as preferred
• Scrap yarn and a scrap hook to cast on underarms (or backward loop cast-on)

Gauge

22 sts x 28 rows = 4" / 10 cm in stockinette on US 6 / 4.0 mm. Check your gauge and change needles if needed.

Abbreviations

K

knit

P

purl

k2tog

knit 2 together (right-leaning decrease)

ssk

slip, slip, knit (left-leaning decrease)

M1R

make one right (lift bar between stitches from back to front, knit through front loop)

M1L

make one left (lift bar between stitches from front to back, knit through back loop)

yo

yarn over

RS

right side

WS

wrong side

Notes

• Pattern is written in the round for the yoke and body; sleeves are worked in the round after separation.
• Every increase round adds 8 sts (one increase at each raglan marker).
• We instruct increases by target total stitches (T) at end of raglan. You may alternatively stop when yoke depth (see table below) is reached; both methods are given.

Stitch Counts & Raglan Targets

The pattern calculates the raglan yoke target (total stitches around the needle before sleeve separation) so that after placing sleeves on holders and casting on underarm stitches you end up with the intended chest circumference. If you like math, here is the layout; if not, just follow the numbers below.

Notes: CO numbers given so you start with an even quarter and increases (+8 per increase round) will reach the yoke target after integer increase rounds. If your chosen CO differs, work increases until the yoke total (T) is reached or until the yoke depth (below) is met—whichever you prefer.

Yoke Depth Targets (approx)

• Newborn: 4.25" / 11 cm
• 3–6 mo: 4.75" / 12 cm
• 6–12 mo: 5.25" / 13.5 cm
• 12–18 mo: 5.75" / 14.5 cm
• 18–24 mo: 6.25" / 16 cm

Pattern — Top-Down Raglan

1) Cast on & setup

1. Using main needles (US 6 / 4.0 mm), cast on CO stitches for your size (see table). Join for working in the round being careful not to twist.
2. Place 4 stitch markers to divide the round into 4 equal sections (these markers mark raglan seams). Example: with CO 40 place markers so each section = 10 sts.
3. Round 1 (RS): Work in stockinette in the round (knit every round) for 1 round to establish. From now on, increase rounds will be worked evenly spaced.

2) Raglan increases

Increase round (worked every right-side round):

*K to 1 stitch before marker, M1R, slip marker, M1L, repeat from * at each raglan marker. Knit remainder of round.*

This increases 8 sts per increase round. Continue increasing every RS round until the total number of stitches on the needle equals the yoke total target (T) for your size (see table) OR until the yoke measures the yoke depth target from the back neck center to underarm—whichever you prefer. Keep counts and note how many increase rounds you do (you will need to mirror decreases if adapting).

3) Separate sleeves and join body

1. When your yoke total T is reached, you will have 4 sections separated by markers. Slip the sleeve stitches (both sleeve sections) onto holders or waste yarn—each sleeve section S = T/4 stitches.
2. With RS facing, join the body: on the first underarm gap (between front and back where you removed sleeve), cast on U stitches using your preferred method (backwards loop or 3-needle cast-on method). Repeat at the second underarm. These U counts are the ones in the table for your size (e.g., Newborn U = 6).
3. You now have all body stitches on the needle (front + back + 2*U). Place a new marker at the start of the round and continue to work body in the round in stockinette (knit every round) using main needles.

4) Body length & hem

1. Work even in stockinette until body measures the desired length from underarm to hem for your size (see sizes at top).
2. Change to smaller needles (US 5 / 3.75 mm). Work 1x1 rib (K1, P1) for 1.0" / 2.5 cm (or 1.25" for larger sizes) for the hem.
3. Bind off loosely in rib.

5) Sleeves

1. Transfer first sleeve stitches from holder to needles. If you used a circular and have a small number, use DPNs as needed. You will have S sts from the yoke plus the U cast-on underarm stitches already attached to the body (the underarm cast-ons closed the gap); in most top-down setups the sleeve you hold does not include the underarm stitches — make sure your sleeve has only the original sleeve stitches on hold and the underarm stitches were cast on to the body.
2. Join yarn at underarm and pick up/knit the held sleeve stitches onto working needles. You will be working in the round from the top down on the sleeve.
3. Work even in stockinette for the sleeve until the sleeve (from underarm) measures the target sleeve length for your size (see sizes).
4. Optionally shape sleeve: if you want a tapered sleeve, decrease 4 times evenly spaced (k2tog or ssk opposite side) every 1.5–2" until you reach approx 36–44% of the upper-arm stitch count; for babies the simple straight sleeve works well and usually needs only minimal decreases. Suggested decreases (optional): decrease 2 sts total (one near each side seam) every 1.5" 2–4 times depending on size.
5. Switch to smaller needles and work 1x1 rib for 1" / 2.5 cm for cuff. Bind off loosely in rib. Repeat for other sleeve.

6) Buttonband & finishing

1. Buttonband option A (recommended, neat): With RS facing and smaller needles, pick up and knit along the right front edge approximately 1 stitch for every 2 body rows (you want a firm but flexible band). Aim for approx 30–36 picked up stitches for newborn, 34–40 for 3–6m, 40–46 for 6–12m, 44–50 for 12–18m, 48–54 for 18–24m—these are targets; adjust slightly to lie flat. Work 1x1 rib for the band width (same as hem) for the full length of the band (same number of rows as hem ribbing) making buttonholes as you go.
2. Buttonhole placement: For baby sizes, make 4–5 buttonholes evenly spaced along the band. Example (Newborn): 4 buttonholes—place first buttonhole 3 rows below neckband and others evenly spaced about 1.25–1.5" apart. Buttonhole method: *K2, yo, k2tog* (works well in rib or adapt with vertical buttonhole in rib).
3. Make corresponding left band by picking up and knitting stitches on the left front edge (you can simply pick up and knit and work same number of rows but without buttonholes). Alternatively sew buttons to left front edge if preferred.
4. Neckband: With RS facing, pick up and knit evenly around the neck opening (including the frontband stitches if you worked them) using smaller needles and work 1x1 rib for 4–6 rounds (or 0.5–0.75" / 1.5–2 cm) and bind off loosely in rib.
5. Weave in ends, block gently to measurements, sew on buttons matching buttonholes.

Finishing Tips

• Block gently to measurements—DK yarn often relaxes and evens stitches. Use cool water and lay flat to dry.
• When picking up stitches for bands, stretch the live edges slightly as you pick up to avoid a floppy band.
• If your buttonband pulls, pick up one extra stitch at the very edge or use a slipped-edge technique (slip first stitch of each row) to neaten.

Optional Modifications

• Make a hood: pick up stitches around neck and work a small hood in stockinette and decrease at crown.
• Add a small eyelet or textured yoke pattern: substitute the plain knit sections between raglan markers with a 2-row seed or moss stitch if you want texture.

Troubleshooting & Notes

• If gauge larger/smaller than sample: recalc stitches—your chest sts = desired chest inches x (gauge sts per inch). Then compute yoke target T = 2*C - 4*U where U is chosen underarm cast-on (6–10). Adjust start CO so (T - CO) is divisible by 8.
• If sleeves feel tight: pick up a few extra stitches when you put sleeve stitches onto needles or cast on more underarm stitches (U larger by 2).

Support & Credits

Pattern by PurlJam. For pattern support email: team@verde.uk. Visit https://purljam.verde.uk and follow us on socials: #purljam.