Basic Timeless Sweater

Designer: PurlJam (adaptable, top-down raglan). Classic, unisex, easy-to-fit pullover worked seamlessly from the top down with raglan increases. Worked in stockinette with 2x2 rib at neck, hem and cuffs. Sizes: XS (S, M, L, XL, 2X, 3X).

Finished measurements & ease

• Chest (finished): 34 (38, 42, 46, 50, 54, 58) in / 86.5 (96.5, 107, 117, 127, 137, 147.5) cm. Recommended positive ease: ~2 in / 5 cm.
• Body length (shoulder to hem): 22 (23, 24, 25, 26, 27, 28) in / 56 (58.5, 61, 63.5, 66, 69, 71) cm — adjust to taste.
• Sleeve length (shoulder to cuff): 18 (18.5, 19, 19.5, 20, 20.5, 21) in / 46 (47, 48.5, 49.5, 51, 52, 53.5) cm. (Measurements are guidelines; you can lengthen/shorten.)

Gauge

18 sts and 24 rows = 4 in / 10 cm in stockinette on larger needles (US 8 / 5.0 mm). Check your gauge on a plain stockinette swatch in the round if possible.

Yarn & Yardage

Worsted / Aran weight yarn (Medium / US 4). Suggested: 200 yards (183 m) per 100 g ball (approx). Yardage by size:

• XS: 900 yd / 823 m
• S: 1000 yd / 914 m
• M: 1100 yd / 1006 m
• L: 1250 yd / 1143 m
• XL: 1400 yd / 1280 m
• 2X: 1550 yd / 1417 m
• 3X: 1700 yd / 1554 m

Needles & notions

• Small circular (for neck rib, short length): US 6 (UK 8, 4.0 mm), 16–24 in / 40–60 cm cable.
• Main circular (body & yoke): US 8 (UK 6, 5.0 mm), 24–32 in / 60–80 cm cable (for magic-loop or long-circle working in the round).
• Double-pointed needles or second circular for small-circumference sleeves: US 8 (UK 6, 5.0 mm), or use magic loop method.
• Stitch markers (4 contrasting), tapestry needle, waste yarn or stitch holders for sleeve stitches, measuring tape, stitch holder or scrap yarn for provisional cast-on if preferred.

Abbreviations

• CO = cast on
• K = knit
• P = purl
• K2tog = knit 2 together (right-leaning decrease)
• SSK = slip, slip, knit (left-leaning decrease)
• M1L/M1R = make 1 left/right (increase) — or use KFB if you prefer. Instructions below use M1L/M1R for neater lines.
• PM = place marker
• SM = slip marker
• St(s) = stitch(es)
• RS = right side
• WS = wrong side

Construction overview

1. Neck rib (worked in the round), then change to larger needles and begin raglan increase yoke.
2. Work raglan increases until desired yoke depth or until specified number of increase rounds is reached; separate sleeves on holders and join body in the round.
3. Work body to desired length, switch to smaller needles and work rib hem.
4. Return to sleeves on needles, work sleeve decreases to cuff, switch to smaller needles and work rib cuff.
5. Weave in ends and block to measurements.

Cast-on & yoke setup

Cast on and yoke numbers are provided per size. You will place markers to form 4 sections: Front / Sleeve / Back / Sleeve.

Cast on (long-tail or preferred stretchy cast-on) with small circular needles (US 6 / 4.0 mm):

• XS: CO 72 (divide: 18 / 18 / 18 / 18)
• S: CO 80 (20 / 20 / 20 / 20)
• M: CO 88 (22 / 22 / 22 / 22)
• L: CO 96 (24 / 24 / 24 / 24)
• XL: CO 104 (26 / 26 / 26 / 26)
• 2X: CO 112 (28 / 28 / 28 / 28)
• 3X: CO 120 (30 / 30 / 30 / 30)

Join in the round carefully to avoid twisting. Work 2x2 rib (K2, P2) for 1 in / 2.5 cm (or 1.25 in / 3 cm if you like a taller neck). Change to larger circular needles (US 8 / 5.0 mm) before beginning the yoke increases.

Place markers and first raglan round

Place 4 markers to divide the cast-on into 4 equal sections. The raglan increase round (RS) is worked like this and repeated on every increase round:

Raglan increase round (worked on RS on larger needles): *K to 1 st before next marker, M1L, K1, SM, K1, M1R* — repeat from * across the round. This adds 8 stitches total each increase round (2 stitches per raglan seam).

Between increase rounds, work 1 plain round (knit all sts) — so the increase rhythm is: Increase round, knit round; repeat. You may also choose to increase every round for a faster raglan curve; the written numbers below assume increase every other round (increase round then plain round).

How many increase rounds / when to separate sleeves

Work raglan increases until one of the two conditions is met: the yoke depth measurement from the cast-on edge reaches your target, OR the total stitch counts reach the targets below. These targets give the finished chest circumference (approx). The pattern provides recommended number of increase rounds (count of increase rounds where each increase round is the one that adds stitches). If you prefer length, use the yoke depth measurements instead.

Note: each listed "increase round" number N counts only the rounds that add stitches. Because we use increase rounds alternating with plain rounds, your total rounds worked will be roughly 2*N.

Separating sleeves & working the body

1. When you have reached the measurement or stitch count above, you will be ready to separate the sleeves. On the next round: K across the first front section, place sleeve stitches on waste yarn or a holder (transfer sleeve sts to holder), cast on 2 new underarm stitches (or leave the increase stitches if you want the raglan seam as-is — this pattern uses 2 cast-on underarm sts), K across back section, place second sleeve sts on holder, cast on 2 underarm stitches, join remaining sts and continue in the round for body.
2. After sleeve separation you should have the body stitch count given in the table above. Join and work the body in stockinette (knit every round) until the body measures your desired length from underarm to hem (recommended 14–16 in / 36–41 cm; see finished measurements above).
3. Switch to smaller needles (US 6 / 4.0 mm) and work 2x2 rib (K2, P2) for 2.5 in / 6.5 cm (or your preferred hem height). Bind off loosely in rib pattern.

Working the sleeves

Place sleeve sts from waste yarn/holders onto needles (US 8 / 5.0 mm) and join in the round. Pick up the 2 underarm cast-on stitches if you used them. You will now shape the sleeve toward the cuff by decreasing evenly.

Suggested cuff target sts (multiple of 4 for 2x2 rib):

• XS: 36 sts
• S: 40 sts
• M: 44 sts
• L: 48 sts
• XL: 52 sts
• 2X: 56 sts
• 3X: 60 sts

Example decrease method (simple and adjustable):

1. Work even (no decreases) for 1–2 in / 2.5–5 cm from underarm to let the sleeve settle.
2. Now begin decrease rounds: Decrease round = *K to 2 sts before the first underarm marker, K2tog, SM, K1, SM, SSK, repeat across the round.* This decreases 2 sts per decrease round (1 on each side of the underarm area).
3. Repeat the decrease round every 4th round (i.e., decrease round, work 3 rounds even, decrease round, etc.) until you are within 8–12 sts of your target cuff stitch count; then decrease every other round until you reach the cuff sts listed above.
4. When the sleeve measures your desired length from underarm to cuff, switch to smaller needles (US 6 / 4.0 mm) and work 2x2 rib for 2.5 in / 6.5 cm. Bind off loosely in rib.

Notes on spacing decreases: If you prefer a gradual reduction, start with decreases every 6th round before switching to every 4th, then every 2nd as you approach the cuff. The pattern above gives you the number of stitches at separation and a target cuff stitch count; distribute decreases to reach that target over your desired sleeve length.

Finishing

• Weave in all ends with a tapestry needle.
• Block gently to measurements: soak in lukewarm water, squeeze out excess water, lay flat to dry shaping to correct widths and lengths.
• Check neck fit; if you used a shorter neck rib and want a taller neck, you can pick up and work additional ribbing around the neckline.

Customization tips

• Want a boxier, more relaxed fit? Add extra increase rounds (work a few more raglan increases) before separation.
• Taller or lower neckline? Increase/decrease the neck rib height before starting the yoke.
• Colorwork or stripes are easiest on the body portion after separation; plan color changes on knit rounds for cleaner joins.
• To add positive ease for layering, add increases until the chest equals desired finished measurement *plus* ease using gauge calculations (stitches per inch = gauge sts / 4 in).

Calculations & quick formulas

• Stitches per inch = gauge sts / 4 in = 18 / 4 = 4.5 sts/in.
• To calculate target body stitches for a desired finished chest: desired inches x sts per inch = target body sts.
• If you know your CO and want to figure how many raglan increase rounds to reach a stitch target: N = (target_body_sts - (CO / 2)) / 4, rounded to nearest whole number where N is the number of increase rounds (each increase round adds 8 sts total).

Troubleshooting & tips

• Neck too tight? Try going up one needle size for the rib or add a few more rib rounds before changing needles.
• Raglan seams looking uneven? Use M1L and M1R consistently and place markers precisely on the raglan stitch to keep shaping even.
• Stitch counts off after increases? Count after a plain round (the round after an increase round) — increases will be even and easier to count.

Layout summary (quick): Cast on & rib → switch to larger needles → place markers and raglan increase (increase round every other round) → when yoke depth or target stitches reached, place sleeves on holders & cast on underarm sts → work body in the round to desired length → rib & bind off → sleeves: pick up, decrease to cuff → rib & bind off → weave in ends, block.

Pattern support & links: Website: https://purljam.verde.uk | Email: team@verde.uk | Social: #purljam

Notes: This pattern is intended as a versatile, beginner-friendly template you can adapt. If you want a version with exact decrease schedules per size (pre-calculated rounds and spacing) or a bottom-up seamed version instead, please request that specific variant.

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