Beaded Lace Shawl in Malabrigo Sock - Solis (24" x 60")

Designer: PurlJam (support: team@verde.uk | website: https://purljam.verde.uk | socials: #purljam)

Image note: I can’t provide a photograph here. For pictures, closeups and blocking shots visit purljam.verde.uk or contact team@verde.uk.

Finished measurements

Wingspan (tip to tip): 60" (152.5 cm)
Center depth (neck to point): 24" (61 cm)

Overview

Top-down, centre-out triangular shawl worked in a flowing lace repeat with a beaded picot-ish edging. Fabric is airy and drapey—Malabrigo Sock in Solis gives rich color depth. The pattern uses easy increase rows to build the triangle, a repeat lace panel for the body, then a shaped lace-and-bead border. Beads are added to selected yarn-overs for sparkle.

Yarn & quantities

• Malabrigo Sock, colorway “Solis” (100 g = 440 yd / 402 m per skein). Imperial/Metric per skein: 100 g (3.5 oz) — 440 yd (402 m).
• Suggested quantity: 2 skeins (total ~880 yd / 804 m). Use 3 skeins if you prefer extra depth or a larger border (~1320 yd / 1206 m).

Needles & notions

• Main needles: 32–36" (80–90 cm) circular needle, US 7 (4.5 mm; UK (old) 7) for the main body. Optional: use US 8 (5.0 mm; UK (old) 6) if you prefer lighter, drapier fabric.
• Border needle (optional): US 6 (4.0 mm; UK (old) 8) if you want a slightly tighter lace edge.
• Beads: size 6/0 or 8/0 Czech or Japanese glass seed beads; approx 500–600 beads (about 8–10 g) depending on placement density.
• Beading needle or thin crochet hook (0.6–1.0 mm) to place beads on the yarn, and a tapestry needle for weaving in ends.
• Stitch markers (2: one for centre, one for repeat delimiting), waste yarn for provisional cast-on if you prefer, blocking wires or pins.

Gauge

18 stitches and 24 rows = 4" (10 cm) in the lace pattern on US 7 (4.5 mm) after blocking. Gauge is flexible for shawls; adjust needle size to match drape and final dimensions.

Skills & techniques used

• Garter-tab or small provisional tab start (instructions provided both ways)
• YO increases, K2tog, SSK, central spine increases
• Chart-less lace repeats and edge increases
• Bead application: pre-stringing beads or placing beads on live yarn-overs
• Picot-style bind off (beaded)

Abbreviations

• K: knit
• P: purl
• YO: yarn over
• K2tog: knit 2 together (right-leaning decrease)
• SSK: slip, slip, knit (left-leaning decrease)
• M1L/M1R: make 1 left/right (optional; pattern uses YO increases)
• RS/WS: right/wrong side
] *...*: repeat instructions between asterisks as directed

Bead basics

Two methods:

1. Pre-string beads onto yarn before you start: easier for placement but requires threading beads onto the full yarn length. Slide beads into place when instructed using a beading needle or fine crochet hook.
2. Place beads as you work: use a tiny crochet hook to pick up and place a bead onto the yarn and slide it up to the needle before making the stitch (works well when beads are only used occasionally).

Construction notes

This shawl is worked from the top centre outward. A small tab establishes a neat cast-on. On every RS increase row you will increase at each outer edge and on either side of the central marker, creating a symmetrical triangular shape. After establishing a base of garter ridges, you will work a body lace repeat. When you have reached the desired wingspan / when your yarn reserve is about one skein left, switch to the border lace sequence and finish with a beaded picot bind-off.

Instructions

Optional: Garter tab start

1. CO 3 sts using a garter tab CO (CO 3, leave a long tail for grafting or use provisional cast-on). Place a marker to indicate the centre between the stitches as described below.
2. Row 1 (RS): Knit across. Row 2 (WS): Knit across. Repeat these two rows 4–6 times to form a small garter square/tab. After tab is complete, proceed to the increase setup row below.

Setup & centre marker

If you used a tab, pick up and knit the three tab stitches, then place a marker to the right of the centre stitch to mark the central axis. If you used provisional CO, remove waste and place your centre marker over the central stitch. From here we will increase on every RS row to form the triangle.

Increase row (RS)

Work increases like this on every RS (right side) increase row so the triangle grows evenly:

RS Increase Row: K1 (edge st), YO, knit to marker - 1 st, YO, K1 (centre st), YO, knit to last st - 1, YO, K1 (edge st).

WS rows: Knit across (garter) for the first 12–18 rows or until the foundation is wide enough to start the lace body.

Begin body lace

After 6–10 increase rows (or when you have ~30–40 sts) begin the lace body. The central spine remains a single knit stitch (centre stitch) with lace panels worked on each wing.

Lace panel pattern (worked on each side of centre, use markers to separate)

Repeat the 12-st lace motif across each side, keeping the central stitch between panels. Work the 12-st motif written below; repeat across until the next to last stitch before the centre spine.

12-st Lace Motif (12 sts):

Row A (RS): *YO, k2tog, k4, ssk, YO, k1* (12 sts) -- align so decreases are balanced.
Row B (WS): Knit across (or P1, K to last 1, P1 if you prefer texture)
Row C (RS): K1, *YO, k2tog, k4, ssk, YO* , K to end
Row D (WS): Knit across

This creates a 4-row repeat (rows A–D). After you have established the lace repeat, continue increasing on every RS as before: place YO increases at the extreme edges and on either side of the centre stitch in addition to the YO elements of the lace pattern. The lace motifs will naturally propagate; keep the centre stitch as a single knit stitch.

How to combine increases with lace

On RS increase rows that coincide with lace rows, work the edge YO that is part of the increase sequence first, then work the lace pattern up to the central area, then finish the row’s increases. Example RS increase + lace row:

RS inc+l ac e row example: K1, YO (edge inc), *work lace motif across wing until 1 stitch before centre*, YO, K1 (centre), YO, *work lace motif across other wing*, YO, K1.

Continue until desired wingspan

Work body lace row repeats (with RS increases) until the wingspan measures approximately 56–58" across (you’ll reserve yarn for the border and bind-off). Because Malabrigo Sock is fingering weight and color pooling is a factor, check the color distribution as you grow; you may prefer to stop earlier or later for color balance.

Border & beading

When you have approx one skein remaining (or when wingspan is ~56–58"), begin the border lace sequence. The border uses a slightly more open lace motif with beads set on selected yarn-overs near the edge.

Border repeat (worked once across each row):

Border Row 1 (RS): K1, *YO, k2tog, k6, ssk, bead on next YO if desired, YO*, repeat to centre, K1 (centre), mirror on second half.

Placement of beads: Every second border repeat add a bead to the outer YO (or to every YO if you want high sparkle). If pre-stringing, slide beads into position as the YO is created or use the crochet-hook method to put a bead on the YO before knitting it on the next row.

Bind off (beaded picot-style)

1. After completing the last border row, prepare for picot bind-off: *K2, YO, slip 2 sts back to left needle and k3tog through back loops* or use your favorite picot BO technique. To place beads on the bind-off: slide a bead onto the yarn before making the picot YO and position it at the loop.
2. Another simple beaded BO: *k1, slip 1 wyib, place bead on slipped loop, pass slipped st over* to make beaded edge bumps.

Finishing

• Weave in ends with tapestry needle. For yarn ends used to pre-string beads leave a short tail; weave under multiple floats so beads sit securely.
• Block gently to open the lace and balance beads. Use blocking wires along the wingspan and pins along the lower edge. Steam blocking lightly or wet-block and pin to measurements: wingspan 60" (152.5 cm), depth 24" (61 cm). Beads can hinder stretching near those spots; allow extra time to dry.

Sizing & adjustments

To make the shawl larger: continue increases longer before the border sequence (or add extra body repeats). For a narrower shawl, add the border earlier. Because gauge in lace is variable, measure as you go and aim for the final wingspan rather than a fixed stitch count. If you plan dramatic contrast or want to center color pooling, change skeins at a predictable point in the repeats.

Notes & tips

• Because Malabrigo Sock is hand-dyed, skeins can vary. Alternate skeins every other row if you’re using multiple skeins at once to even out shading.
• When placing beads, keep tension even. If beads cause the fabric to pull, place them less densely or use smaller 8/0 beads.
• If you prefer charts, the 12-st motif above is straightforward to chart: row A decreases on positions 2 and 9; rows B/D are knit rows; repeat the 4-row sequence.

Pattern support

If you want a printable PDF, schematic, or photo set please visit https://purljam.verde.uk or email team@verde.uk. I can’t provide photos here, but we’re happy to help by email.

Enjoy knitting! If you share your finished piece tag it with #purljam.

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