A simple, worked-in-the-round beanie with a stretchy 2x2 rib brim and a classic tapered crown. Sizes from newborn to large adult; extremely detailed stitch counts and finishing notes below.
18 stitches and 24 rows = 4" / 10 cm in stockinette on US 8 (5.0 mm). Check gauge before starting: adjust needle size to match.
All knitting directions are in the round unless stated. Cast-on counts above are multiples of 8 to make crown shaping straightforward. Rib is worked k2, p2. Length guidelines are flexible: measure on the head or a hat you like.
1) Using US 7 (4.5 mm) if you prefer a firmer brim, otherwise US 8 (5.0 mm), CO the number of stitches for your size using a stretchy cast-on (long-tail or German twisted). Join carefuly to work in the round, placing a marker to indicate the beginning of the round. Be careful not to twist stitches.
2) Brim: Work k2, p2 rib for the following lengths: Newborn 1.25" / 3 cm; Baby 1.5" / 4 cm; Child 1.75" / 4.5 cm; Teen 2.0" / 5 cm; Adult 2.25" / 5.5 cm; Large Adult 2.5" / 6.5 cm. Switch to US 8 (5.0 mm) if you used a smaller needle for the brim.
3) Body: Knit every round until the hat measures the "work to" length given above (measure from cast-on edge). This produces a gently slouched to classic fit depending on size.
We use a repeating decrease sequence. Decrease rounds are worked every other round (i.e., decrease round, then knit 1 round plain, then next decrease round). Continue the pattern until 8–12 sts remain then finish. If your tension is loose, you may want to perform decreases every round instead of every other round — notes below.
Because each decrease round removes 1 stitch from each group of 8, your stitch counts after each decrease will be predictable. Example: starting at 96 sts: after Round A = 96 - 12 = 84 sts; after Round C = 84 - 12 = 72 sts; after Round E = 60; G = 48; I = 36; K = 24; final k2tog round = 12, etc. Stop when 8–12 sts remain.
Finishing: Cut yarn leaving a 10–12" / 25–30 cm tail. Thread tail through a tapestry needle, run the yarn through remaining live stitches and pull tight to close the top. Secure on the inside with a few mattress stitch-style passes, weave in ends. Lightly block if desired.
CO same stitch counts on straight needles. Work in 2x2 rib for brim length, then stockinette (RS rows knit, WS rows purl) until desired length. For crown shaping, work the same decrease sequence across the row, remembering that flat decreases often use ssk (left) and k2tog (right). When you have 8–12 sts left, cut a tail and draw through remaining sts, then seam the back with mattress stitch and close top as above.
Materials and gauge: use same worsted yarn. Gauge approx 16 sc x 18 rows = 4" / 10 cm on H/8 5.0 mm hook.
Pattern (worked in continuous rounds): Magic ring, ch 1, 10 sc into ring, join. Round 2: 2 sc in each st around (20). Round 3: *sc in next st, 2 sc in next* repeat (30). Round 4: *sc in next 2, 2 sc in next* repeat (40). Continue increasing each round by distributing increases evenly until your crown circle matches approx diameter (Divide desired circumference by pi (~3.14) to get diameter). Once crown is large enough, work even in sc until desired total length minus 1.5"/4 cm. Then decrease rounds by skipping stitches evenly (e.g., *sc2tog, sc in next X sts*), or switch to surface decreases until 8–12 sts remain, finish by gathering tail through remaining sts and pull tight. Finish with pompom or leave plain.
Wash by hand gently if yarn is wool (or follow yarn care instructions). Lay flat to dry, reshape gently. Don’t hang to dry — that will stretch the brim.
Starting sts -> after first decrease round -> after second decrease round -> after third:
Pattern provided by PurlJam. For help or to report errata: support email team@verde.uk. Website: https://purljam.verde.uk. Social: #purljam. This pattern may be sold as part of a collection but small-scale selling of finished items is allowed; please credit PurlJam when selling. No mass reproduction without permission.