Beanie with Three Cross Patches
Top-down knitted beanie in worsted weight with three small cross patches on the front worked with duplicate stitch for crisp, secure contrast. Fits most adults; three sizes included. This pattern is designed to be easy to adapt: you can change cross size, color or placement.
Materials
- Yarn, worsted/aran weight (Category 4): Main Color (MC) and Contrast Color (CC) for crosses. Suggested amount: MC: S: 110 yards (100 m); M: 140 yards (128 m); L: 170 yards (155 m). CC: 10–20 yards (9–18 m).
- Needles: 16” / 40 cm circular + set of double-pointed needles (or magic loop) in sizes listed below.
- Waste yarn and tapestry needle for grafting/finishing.
- Stitch marker, tape measure, stitch holder if needed.
Needle sizes
- Main knitting: US 7 / 4.5 mm / UK (old) 7 — 16” (40 cm) circular or magic loop.
- Optional slightly smaller for ribbing: US 6 / 4.0 mm / UK (old) 8 (use if you prefer firmer brim).
- Double-pointed needles: same sizes as above for finishing crown, as needed.
Yarn sizing (imperial and metric)
- Worsted/Aran (Category 4): weight examples: 50 g / 1.75 oz skeins typically 110–200 yds (100–183 m) depending on brand. Pattern yardage given above per size (imperial yards and metric meters).
Gauge
18 sts x 24 rnds = 4 in / 10 cm in stockinette stitch on US 7 / 4.5 mm.
Finished measurements
- S (small): approx 19.5–20” / 49.5–50.5 cm circumference.
- M (medium): approx 21.5–22” / 54.5–56 cm circumference.
- L (large): approx 23.5–24” / 60–62 cm circumference.
- Height (brim + body + crown): about 8.5–9.5 in / 21.5–24 cm before blocking (adjust by knitting more/less rounds).
Abbreviations
- CO: cast on
- K: knit
- P: purl
- st(s): stitch(es)
- K2tog: knit 2 together (right-leaning decrease)
- SSK: slip, slip, knit (left-leaning decrease)
- rnd: round
- pm: place marker
- sm: slip marker
- RS: right side
- WS: wrong side
Sizing & Cast-on
Choose your size and cast on the number of stitches indicated. Cast on using a stretchy cast-on (long-tail preferred).
- S: CO 88 sts
- M: CO 96 sts
- L: CO 104 sts
Join in the round, being careful not to twist. Place marker for beginning of round.
- Rib: *K2, P2* around for 1.5 in / 4 cm (or 2 in / 5 cm if you prefer longer brim). Use US 6 / 4.0 mm if you want a firmer edge; otherwise continue on US 7.
Body
- Switch to stockinette in the round: K every rnd until measured from cast-on edge to crown start = S: 6.5 in / 16.5 cm; M: 7 in / 18 cm; L: 7.5 in / 19 cm (adjust for desired slouch or fit). Stop before decreasing to allow space for crosses above the brim — recommended position is approx 1.5–2 in / 4–5 cm above rib.
Crown shaping (works for multiples of 8 — this pattern uses CO counts that are multiples of 8)
Begin decreases when hat measures as above.
- Rnd 1: *K6, K2tog* repeat to end.
- Rnd 2: Knit.
- Rnd 3: *K5, K2tog* repeat to end.
- Rnd 4: Knit.
- Rnd 5: *K4, K2tog* repeat to end.
- Rnd 6: Knit.
- Rnd 7: *K3, K2tog* repeat to end.
- Rnd 8: Knit.
- Rnd 9: *K2, K2tog* repeat to end.
- Rnd 10: Knit.
- Rnd 11: *K1, K2tog* repeat to end.
- Rnd 12: Knit.
- Rnd 13: *K2tog* repeat to end; 8 sts remain (approx).
- Cut yarn leaving a 8–12 in / 20–30 cm tail. Thread tail through remaining live stitches with a tapestry needle, pull snug to close top, secure inside and weave in ends.
Cross patches (Duplicate stitch method)
Instead of sewing separate pieces, we recommend using duplicate stitch so crosses lie flat and are machine-washable. This method stitches over existing knit stitches with CC to create a pixel-style motif.
Cross size & chart
Cross motif is 7 sts wide by 9 rows high. Each “1” below means “work duplicate stitch with CC on that knit stitch”. The chart below is shown with row 1 at the bottom (worked from lower edge of motif upward). You will place motifs so the bottom of the motif sits approx 1.5–2 in / 4–5 cm above the brim.
Row 9: 0001000
Row 8: 0001000
Row 7: 0001000
Row 6: 0001000
Row 5: 1111111
Row 4: 0001000
Row 3: 0001000
Row 2: 0001000
Row 1: 0001000
Interpretation: 1 = duplicate stitch over that stitch (CC). 0 = leave as MC.
Placement
Find the front center of the hat: fold hat in half front-to-back to find the vertical center line, or use stitch count to find midpoint. Mark that center. Place three crosses so their centers are aligned on this horizontal line (centers at same row). Place the middle cross centered on the front midpoint. Place the left and right crosses each 10 stitches to the left and right of the middle cross center (this gives about 2.2 in / 5.5 cm between centers at the stated gauge). Adjust spacing visually if you prefer them closer or further apart.
To center the 7-st motif when your mid-point falls between stitches (even-numbered total), align the motif so the central vertical column of the cross sits on the stitch immediately right of the midpoint for a balanced look; visually check symmetry.
How to work duplicate stitch (summary)
- Thread a length of CC yarn onto a tapestry needle (work with a comfortable length so it doesn’t tangle).
- Insert needle from back to front under the two legs of the knit stitch below the stitch you are covering. Pull yarn through, then insert the needle back under the two legs of the stitch above, forming a small V that mimics the knit stitch. Pull snug but not tight (do not distort the fabric).
- Follow the chart stitch-for-stitch: perform duplicate stitch only on knit stitches (stockinette in the round has all knit stitches on the right side). Work from bottom row of motif to top, left to right for each row, or follow whichever direction you find easiest. Secure ends on the inside with small stitches and weave in ends neatly.
Finishing
- Weave in all ends. If you used duplicate stitch, weave CC tails inside the hat to avoid catching.
- Block gently by steaming or laying flat to relax stitches; avoid stretching the motif. Let dry completely.
- Sew any loose tails and trim excess.
Variations & Tips
- For a raised patch effect, knit small separate crosses (7 sts x 9 rows garter or seed stitch) and sew them on. Make sure to block patches before sewing for neat edges.
- To make larger crosses, scale the chart to 9x11 or 11x13; you’ll need more CC yarn and may adjust spacing between crosses.
- If you prefer crocheted crosses, make small flat crosses with single crochet and surface stitch them on; use a smaller hook than the yarn label to keep them firm.
- To make a slouchy beanie, add 6–12 additional rounds before crown shaping.
Care
Follow yarn label instructions. For most worsted acrylic blends: machine wash gentle, tumble low or lay flat to dry. Handwash wool or handwash-only yarns and dry flat.
Support & notes
If you need help adapting stitch counts, cross placement or sizes, check resources at our site or contact support. Website: https:\/\/purljam.verde.uk. Support email: team@verde.uk. Socials: #purljam.