Black Dragon Amigurumi (Crochet)

Create a sleek, poseable black dragon plushie worked in single crochet (amigurumi) with articulated wings, spines, horns and a curled tail. This pattern is written for an intermediate crocheter who knows increases, decreases and simple shaping. Finished toy measures approximately 9–12 inches (23–30 cm) tall from tip of nose to top of head when seated; tail length adds length when extended.

Yarn & Materials

Main yarn: Worsted / Aran weight (US 4). Recommended: 250 yards (229 m) total in Black. Example yarn info: Worsted/Aran ~200–220 yds/100 g; for this project estimate 250 yds (229 m) ~ 150 g. (Imperial/Metric provided.)
Contrast yarn: 50 yards (46 m) for spines/wing membranes/eyes (optional metallic or dark purple for highlights).
Hook: Crochet hook recommended 4.0 mm for tight fabric.
Notions: 2 x safety eyes 9 mm (optional), tapestry needles, stitch marker, polyester toy stuffing, small amount of black embroidery floss for nostrils and mouth, craft wire (20–24 gauge) optional for wing/neck shaping, pliers, hot glue or fabric glue for securing wire ends.

Needle & Hook Sizes (recommended)

Crochet hook: US G/6 (4.0 mm) — UK (old) approx 8 — Metric 4.0 mm.
Alternative hook for very tight fabric: US F/5 (3.75 mm) — Metric 3.75 mm.
If you prefer knitting: needles US 6 (4.0 mm) — UK (old) 8 — Metric 4.0 mm (pattern is crocheted but needle equivalents provided for gauge reference).

Gauge

Approximately 16 sc x 18 rows = 10 cm (4 in) using 4.0 mm hook. Amigurumi gauge is flexible; tighter fabric is better to keep stuffing from showing.

Abbreviations (US terms listed first, UK equivalents in parentheses where helpful)

ch = chain
sc = single crochet (UK = double crochet)
st(s) = stitch(es)
inc = increase (2 sc in same st)
dec = invisible decrease (sc2tog) — close to the invisible decrease method
MR = magic ring (magic circle)
BLO = back loop only
FLO = front loop only
sl st = slip stitch
FO = fasten off

Notes & Tips

Work in continuous rounds (spiral) unless instructed to join. Use a stitch marker to mark round start.
Stuff firmly but not overstuffed; stuffing after several rounds of shaping helps form smooth curves.
Safety eyes: insert at the round specified before stuffing the head. If embroidering eyes, wait until final assembly.
Wire is optional: insert inside wings and through neck for poseability; wrap wire ends and anchor with a small dab of glue or by twisting and covering with yarn.

Abbreviations for assembly

Sewing positions use rounds and stitch numbers counted clockwise when facing the piece unless otherwise stated.

Pattern — All in Single Crochet

Head

MC = main color (black)

Round 1: MR, 6 sc into MR (6)
Round 2: inc around (12)
Round 3: (sc, inc) x6 (18)
Round 4: (2 sc, inc) x6 (24)
Round 5: (3 sc, inc) x6 (30)
Rounds 6–10: sc around (30) — place safety eyes between rounds 7–8 about 8–10 sts apart depending on eye size; position centered on face.
Round 11: (3 sc, dec) x6 (24)
Round 12: (2 sc, dec) x6 (18)
Stuff head firmly at this point.
Round 13: (sc, dec) x6 (12)
Round 14: dec x6 (6)
FO, leave long tail for sewing to neck if you will attach later. Close remaining opening using tapestry needle and weave tail through remaining sts, pull tight and secure.

Snout / Muzzle (make 1)

Round 1: MR, 6 sc (6)
Round 2: (sc, inc) x3 (9)
Round 3: sc around (9)
Round 4: (sc, dec) x3 (6)
FO leaving long tail for sewing. Lightly stuff and sew onto head centered under the eyes. Embroider nostrils with 2 short vertical stitches using black embroidery floss.

Neck & Body (worked continuous if you prefer)

Round 1 (neck start at base of head): MR, 6 sc (6)
Round 2: inc around (12)
Round 3: (sc, inc) x6 (18)
Round 4: sc around (18)
Round 5: (4 sc, inc) x3 (21)
Round 6–10: sc around (21) — form a short neck; stuff lightly to allow shaping.
Round 11: (4 sc, dec) x3 (18)
Round 12–16: sc around (18) — body widens and forms chest.
Round 17: (sc, inc) x6 (24)
Round 18–24: sc around (24) — stuff firmly to create torso bulk; make sure to shape with fingers as you stuff to create a rounded belly.
Round 25: (3 sc, dec) x6 (18)
Round 26: (2 sc, dec) x6 (12)
Round 27: sc around (12) — leave a large tail for sewing tail section if working separately. Close base using similar technique to head, or attach tail crochet round for round.

Tail (make 1)

Round 1: MR, 6 sc (6)
Round 2: sc around (6)
Round 3: (sc, inc) x3 (9)
Round 4–10: sc around (9) — lengthen tail to desired length (adjust rounds to make tail longer or shorter).
Round 11: (sc, dec) x3 (6)
Round 12: sc around (6) — stuff lightly. Before closing completely, insert a short piece of craft wire if you want a poseable tail; wrap ends and anchor inside tail with glue, then finish stuffing and close. Sew narrow end to body base centered, curving tail as desired.

Legs (make 2)

Round 1: MR, 6 sc (6)
Round 2: inc around (12)
Round 3: (sc, inc) x6 (18)
Rounds 4–7: sc around (18) — flat foot shaping next.
Round 8: FLO: sc around to create a flatter foot (18)
Round 9: sc around (18) — stuff the foot and slightly flatten; leave long tails for sewing to body at the lower sides slightly forward for a seated pose.

Arms/Forelegs (make 2)

Round 1: MR, 6 sc (6)
Round 2: inc around (12)
Rounds 3–6: sc around (12)
Round 7: dec x6 (6) — stuff lightly in rounds 5–6 so arms keep shape. Leave tail for sewing to sides of body just below neck.

Wings (make 2)

Wings have a sculpted armature row that you will optionally insert wire into. Make wings mirrored.

Wing base (use a chain as the wing spine): ch 16, join to form a loop with sl st or work back along chain in sc for ridged spine.
Row 1: ch 1, sc in each chain back to start to form a firm strip approx 15–16 sts long — FO leaving long tail.
Wing membrane: join at one end of spine, sc across one side of spine evenly, then for shaping work decreases and increases to create a rounded membrane. Example: Round 1: attach yarn to the spine, sc evenly 30 sts around the edge; Round 2: (4 sc, dec) across; Round 3: sc around shaping to taste. Work until wing measures about 4–6 inches from spine center. Make 2 and mirror by reversing increases/decreases.
Optional: Insert a piece of craft wire along the spine and out into the outer tip of the wing to make it poseable. Cover exposed wire ends with hot glue and/or cap with a bit of yarn and stitch closed so wire doesn't poke out.

Horns (make 2)

Round 1: MR, 4 sc (4)
Rounds 2–6: sc around (4) — taper by occasionally dec near the tip if a sharper horn is desired. Stuff very lightly and press flat for sewing onto head slightly angled back.

Spines (make 10–14, depending on size)

Ch 4, sc back across chain leaving small picot: ch 2, sl st into last sc to create ridge. FO and sew along top of head, neck and tail in alternating sizes for a natural look. Use contrast color if desired for dramatic effect.

Assembly

Sew head to neck/body using long tail left on head; use mattress stitch style invisible join to make seam neat. Make sure head sits centered and slightly forward.
Sew snout in place under eyes securely.
Attach legs and arms symmetrically; position lower legs at the body base so the dragon can sit. Reinforce with several passes of yarn to prevent floppy limbs.
Sew wings to upper back where shoulder blades would be; angle wings slightly upward. If wing armature wire is used, position ends so they are hidden within body and anchored with glue or stitching.
Sew horns to top of head behind eyes. Add spines along head, neck and tail by stitching the base of each spine firmly into the seam to hide ends.
Embroider or attach safety eyes and close any gaps. Use black thread for nostrils and a few stitches for a mouth line. A small dab of white or metallic yarn for eye highlight can be stitched on after placement for expression.

Finishing

Weave in all ends securely. Trim excess yarn close to the surface but avoid cutting too close to prevent slipping.
Optional protective steps: spray lightly with fabric guard for durability, or hand wash gently only if yarn label allows.

Variations & Customization

Scale: Use smaller hook and fingering yarn for a mini dragon; use larger hook and chunkier yarn for a cuddly oversized dragon.
Color: Add a contrasting stomach panel by crocheting a flat oval and sewing it to the belly before final stuffing for two-tone effect.
Armor & accessories: Crochet tiny spikes, a saddle or little knitted claws to personalize your dragon.

Troubleshooting

If stuffing shows through, use a smaller hook or tighter tension and add more stuffing in small increments.
To make neck more posable, insert a short length of wire inside a crocheted tube and sew it in place; secure ends well.

Estimated Yardage & Finished Size

Main color (Black): ~250 yards (229 m).
Contrast/accents: ~50 yards (46 m).
Finished seated height: ~9–12 inches (23–30 cm) depending on tension and optional tail/wings extension.

Care

Surface clean recommended. If washing is necessary, gently hand wash and reshape, then air dry. Remove any wire components before washing.

Credits & Contact

Pattern by PurlJam. For support, contact team@verde.uk. More patterns and photos at https://purljam.verde.uk. Share your finished project using hashtag #purljam on socials.

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