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purlJam

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Black Shirt with Flowers - Top-Down Raglan Knit Top (DK) with Crocheted Flowers

Comfortable, slightly fitted short-sleeve black shirt worked top-down in the round with a smooth stockinette body and a neat rib hem. Embellish with small crocheted flowers arranged on the shoulder and chest. This pattern includes full sizes and a calculation method so you can customize the fit.

Sizes (Finished Chest)

Suggested Ease

Negative to slight positive ease: 0 to 4 in / 0-10 cm, depending on whether you prefer close-to-body or relaxed.

Materials

Needle Sizes (give all three formats)

Gauge

22 sts and 28 rows = 4 in / 10 cm in stockinette using US 6 / 4.0 mm. Swatch in the round if you plan to knit the body in the round.

Abbreviations (US knitting)

Notes

  1. This is a top-down raglan worked in the round to the underarm. Sleeves are worked in the round after separating. The instructions give starting COs and exact increases so you can follow the pattern for the five sizes provided.
  2. You may choose to work increase rounds every round or every other round for a more gradual raglan; the pattern uses an "increase round" repeated until target stitch counts are reached. Each increase round increases 8 sts total (2 increases at each of 4 raglan lines).
  3. If your gauge differs, use the calculation method below to achieve a custom size.

Sample Stitch Targets & Cast-On

Target total stitches at raglan separation (this equals body sts + 2 x sleeve sts): XS 188, S 198, M 220, L 242, XL 264.

Suggested sleeve target stitches (after separation): XS 32, S 34, M 36, L 40, XL 44.

Suggested cast-on (neck): XS CO 84; S CO 86; M CO 100; L CO 106; XL CO 120. These are chosen so (target total - CO) is divisible by 8, making raglan increase rounds exact.

How to Customize (Calculation Method)

  1. Measure your desired finished chest circumference and convert to stitches by multiplying inches by your gauge in sts/inch (example: 5.5 sts/in = 22 sts/4 in).
  2. Choose desired sleeve circumference at bicep and convert to stitches similarly; divide by 2 for each sleeve (you'll need the full sleeve stitch count).
  3. Target total at separation = body stitch total + 2 x sleeve stitch total. Choose a reasonable neck cast-on (approx 80–120 depending on size).
  4. Number of increase rounds required = (Target total - Cast-on) / 8. Adjust cast-on by a few stitches up or down so the difference is divisible by 8.

Pattern - Knit (Top-Down Raglan)

1. Neck

  1. Using smaller needle (US 5 / 3.75 mm), CO the number of stitches for your size (see Cast-On above). Join carefully to work in the round, being careful not to twist. Place a removable marker for beginning of round.
  2. Work 1x1 rib (k1, p1) for 1 in / 2.5 cm or desired neck depth. Alternatively work 6 rounds of 2x2 rib if you want a wider rib.

2. Set up Yoke and Raglan Markers

  1. Switch to body needles (US 6 / 4.0 mm). Place 4 markers to divide the round into Front, Right Sleeve, Back, Left Sleeve. Example for M: after CO 100, distribute so there are approximate quarter sections; exact sizing will come with increases.
  2. Example raglan markers: work pattern by knitting to marker, M1R, slip marker, M1L (this makes the raglan increase pairs). A clear increase round is: *K to 1 st before marker, M1R, K1, slip marker, K1, M1L; repeat for each marker; K to end of round.* This increases 8 sts per increase round.

3. Raglan Increase Rounds

  1. Work an increase round as described, then work 1 round plain (no increases) if you want a more open yoke; repeat these two rounds (or repeat the single increase round every round for faster increase) until total stitches shown in the Sample Stitch Targets & Cast-On section are reached. For the sample cast-ons given, the numbers of increase rounds are whole numbers.
  2. Place a removable marker or note the round when you reach your target total; this is the raglan separation round.

4. Separate Sleeves

  1. At the separation round, divide your stitches: slip the sleeve stitches onto holders (or waste yarn) and join the body stitches in the round. Do not join underarm gaps; simply leave sleeve stitches out of the body and continue body in the round.
  2. After moving sleeves off, the remaining stitches will be the body circumference (target body stitches). Place a marker at the beginning of round.

5. Body

  1. Work in stockinette (knit every round) until body length from underarm measures: 7.5 in / 19 cm for a short-sleeve look, or 9–10 in / 23–25 cm for a longer tee. Try on to check length.
  2. Work 1 in / 2.5 cm of 1x1 rib (US 5) for hem; bind off loosely in rib.

6. Sleeves

  1. Transfer sleeve stitches back to needles (US 6) and join for working in the round. Pick up 0–2 stitches under the arm if needed to close any gap, keeping the increase even—if you pick up extra stitches, decrease one to maintain ease.
  2. Work even in the round, knit every round, decreasing slightly toward the cuff if desired. For the sample sleeve counts: work straight until sleeve length from underarm is 5 in / 13 cm for short sleeve; then switch to US 5 and work 1 in / 2.5 cm rib and bind off loosely.
  3. Optional: shape sleeve by decreasing 6–10 sts evenly over the first 3–4 in / 8–10 cm of the sleeve working rounds where you decrease 1 stitch at evenly spaced intervals.

7. Finishing

  1. Weave in ends; block gently to measurements.
  2. Arrange and sew flowers to the shoulder and chest area as shown in your sketch. Use small stitches and matching thread for invisible join; for crochet flowers, sew through the center with a few stitches and secure tight.

Crochet Flowers (Small 5-Petal Motif) - US Terminology

Make several in different colours. Small flowers are worked with a 3.5 mm / US E4 / UK 9 hook and a small amount of DK or sport yarn; you can also use fingering or sock yarn for daintier flowers.

  1. Ch 5, sl st to form ring.
  2. Round 1: Ch 1 (does not count), 10 sc into ring, sl st to first sc. (10 sc)
  3. Round 2 (petals): *Ch 3, dc in same st, ch 3, sl st in next st; repeat from * around to make 5 petals. Fasten off leaving a long tail for sewing.

Optional larger petals: ch 4, tr, ch 4, sl st in next st.

Flower Attachment & Placement

Sew flowers onto the shirt using the long tail and a tapestry needle. Cluster small flowers on one shoulder and scatter 1–3 smaller flowers on the chest for balance. Use a few tiny stitches at the center to hold, and secure the center with a contrasting French knot using embroidery thread if desired.

Finishing Touches

Troubleshooting & Tips

Support and Credits

Website: https://purljam.verde.uk • Support: team@verde.uk • Socials: #purljam

Enjoy your knitting — if you want a version with lace floral yoke instead of appliqué flowers, request a lace-charted yoke and I can provide a variant.


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