One-Piece Cabled Hooded Bolero / Shrug (sleeveless) — worked seamlessly with hood and one front button

Style notes: cropped bolero length, fitted over shoulders with a cosy hood, decorative cables on each front and a centre-back cable. Worked in one piece (no seaming), button at upper front left for closure. Suitable for worsted/aran weight yarn.

Finished measurements (approx)

• XS: Back width 15” (38cm), Front depth (shoulder to hem) 8” (20cm)
• S: 16.5” (42cm) / 8.5” (22cm)
• M: 18” (46cm) / 9” (23cm)
• L: 19.5” (50cm) / 9.5” (24cm)
• XL: 21” (54cm) / 10” (25cm)

Yarn

• Weight: Worsted / Aran (category 4). Suggested yarn: smooth plied worsted.
• Yardage: XS 300 yd (275 m); S 350 yd (320 m); M 400 yd (366 m); L 450 yd (411 m); XL 500 yd (457 m).
• Yarn ball size examples: 100g/200-220yd (91-201m) balls — you'll need approx. 2-3 balls for XS, 2-3 for S, 3-4 for M, 3-4 for L, 4-5 for XL depending on skein size.

Needles & notions

• Main: US 8 / UK 6 / 5.0 mm circular needle, 24” (60 cm) or length to comfortably hold all sts.
• Smaller for hem/rib: US 7 / UK 7 / 4.5 mm (same length circular).
• Optional: short circular or double points for finishing hood crown if preferred.
• Notions: cable needle, stitch marker (3), tapestry needle, 1 button 18–20 mm / 0.7”–0.8” (choose to suit yarn), small crochet hook for button loop (optional), waste yarn for provisional CO (optional).

Gauge

18 sts x 24 rows = 4” (10 cm) in stockinette on US 8 / 5.0 mm. If you get more sts/4”, go up a needle size; if fewer, go down.

Abbreviations (US)

• k = knit
• p = purl
• CO = cast on
• BO = bind off
• st(s) = stitch(es)
• RS = right side
• WS = wrong side
• PM = place marker
• sm = slip marker
• C8F = Cable 8 front: slip 4 sts to cable needle and hold in front, k4, k4 from cable needle
• C8B = Cable 8 back: slip 4 sts to cable needle and hold in back, k4, k4 from cable needle
• k2tog = knit 2 together
• ssk = slip, slip, knit (left-leaning decrease)

Pattern notes & layout

This pattern is worked flat from the lower edge up, casting on stitches for Right Front + Back + Left Front in that order. There is a 3-st garter front border at each front edge to give a neat, non-rolling edge (these are worked garter while the rest is mostly stockinette). Each front has an 8-st cable panel close to the center front; the back has a centre 8-st cable. At armhole level you will bind off a small number of sts under each arm to form the armhole openings but will otherwise keep the piece in one piece. The hood is worked by picking up and joining the top neck/shoulder stitches and shaping the hood in the round (worked flat then seamed by grafting last sts together is optional if you prefer). One button and a small loop close the front at the neck.

Cast on & stitch distribution

Cast on the following total number of sts using smaller needles (US 7 / 4.5 mm) and work 1.5” (4 cm) of 1x1 rib, then change to US 8 / 5.0 mm.

• XS: CO 132 sts (Right Front 34, Back 64, Left Front 34)
• S: CO 144 sts (Right Front 38, Back 68, Left Front 38)
• M: CO 156 sts (Right Front 42, Back 72, Left Front 42)
• L: CO 168 sts (Right Front 46, Back 76, Left Front 46)
• XL: CO 180 sts (Right Front 50, Back 80, Left Front 50)

Stitch mapping across row, left-to-right when facing the RS: Right Front (RF): Garter border 3 sts, Front cable 8 sts, Front stockinette panel (remaining RF sts - 11); Back: centre cable 8 sts in middle of the Back section, with stockinette either side; Left Front (LF): mirror of RF. Markers: Place markers to delineate: after RF, mark; after Back, mark. These markers show your section boundaries for armhole bind-offs.

Hem and body (worked flat)

1. Using smaller needles CO required sts. Work 1x1 rib (k1, p1) for 1.5” (4 cm). Switch to larger needles and begin pattern as follows.
2. Setup row (RS): Work RF section as: k3 (garter border), then work Front cable panel: set up the cable pattern by working the first row of cable pattern (see Cable pattern below) across the 8 sts, then knit rest of RF stockinette sts. *Place marker*. For Back: work stockinette until you reach the centre 8 sts, work the centre cable pattern across those 8 sts, then stockinette to next marker. *Place marker*. For LF: mirror RF: knit LF stockinette, cable panel, finish with garter edge k3.
3. Continue working in established pattern (garter front edges remain garter stitch on every RS and WS row: simply knit the 3 garter sts on the RS and knit on WS as well to keep garter) and stockinette elsewhere, and working the cable charts every 8 rows. Work until piece measures from hem to underarm approx 7” (18 cm) for XS/S, 7.5” (19 cm) for M/L, 8” (20 cm) for XL, or to preferred armhole depth.

Armhole bind-off

To form arm openings while keeping piece in one piece, bind off sts at the two internal seams between Front and Back (the sts at the sides where the front meets the back). On the next RS row, bind off the following underarm stitches at each side:

• XS & S: BO 8 sts at each underarm (bind off 8 sts at each side)
• M & L: BO 10 sts at each underarm
• XL: BO 12 sts at each underarm

After these bind-offs you will have three separate groups of live stitches on the needle: Right Front (RF), Back (B), Left Front (LF). Keep working across all live sts in pattern: you will now be working shorter rows across each section when necessary but do not seam; the armhole openings are created by those bind-offs.

Shoulder / neck shaping

Continue working until the back centre (measuring up from the hem) reaches the desired length to base of the hood: approx 8.5” (22 cm) from hem for XS/S, 9” (23 cm) for M/L, 9.5” (24 cm) for XL. Then shape the neckline and prepare for the hood:

1. Set up a centre front opening: For the button placement you will create a small buttonhole at the left front garter border approx 1” (2.5 cm) down from the neckline when finished. To allow this, on the next RS row when you reach the left-front garter border at the planned button row, work a 2-st buttonhole: k2tog, YO (or BO 2 and CO 2 on next row). (Exact placement instructions for buttonhole are given in Finishing.)
2. When the back and front have reached the neckline depth (approx 2.5” / 6 cm above your shoulder line), you will separate the centre back stitches for hood construction. Place the centre back cable 8 sts on a stitch holder/waste yarn to mark the middle if desired (not necessary).

Hood

There are two hood options: worked flat and grafted at center, or worked in the round. The instructions below are for working the hood flat and then grafting the crown; you may work the hood in the round if you prefer (adjust decreases to be symmetric).

1. Pick up and knit across the neck edge: With RS facing, using US 8 / 5.0 mm circular, pick up and knit stitches along Right Front neck edge from the cast-on hem up to the shoulder, then across back neck edge, then down the Left Front neck edge. You should have approximately 2 sts picked up for every 3 rows; exact count will vary. Aim to have approx 80–100 sts total (XS smaller, XL larger). Make a note of the number of sts; hood shaping depends on count rather than a fixed number.
2. Work hood in stockinette with the 3-st garter border continuing at the front neck edge (slip or knit the 3 border sts at each RS row to preserve garter). Work cable placement: If your picked-up stitches include the front cables and centre-back cable, continue those cable patterns into the hood where they fall naturally. Cross cables every 8 rows as before.
3. Continue until hood depth measures approx 10” (25 cm) for small sizes, 11” (28 cm) for larger sizes, or to preferred depth.
4. Crown shaping: Work decreases across the hood to close the crown. On a RS row, decrease 8 sts evenly across row (for example k8, k2tog across). Work one row even. Repeat these two rows until about 10–12 sts remain. Break yarn, thread through remaining sts and pull tight to close. Weave in end. Or optionally graft remaining sts together with Kitchener for a neat top.

Button & button loop

1. Button placement: With the bolero folded as worn, mark a point on left front garter border about 1” (2.5 cm) below the hood binding (neckline). This is approximately even with the top of the shoulder seam when worn. Make the buttonhole at this point if you haven’t already: On an RS row, work to 3 garter edge sts, k1, YO, k2tog, then continue. This makes a secure horizontal-ishhole within the garter band. Alternatively make a small sewn loop of yarn secured to the inside if you prefer.
2. Sew the button to the opposite front (right front garter band) aligned with the loop/hole when closed. Try on and adjust button position if necessary before securing tightly.

Finishing

1. Weave in all ends neatly using tapestry needle.
2. Block gently to measurements, shaping cable panels and hood. Light steam or wet-block as recommended for your yarn fibre.
3. If you worked the hood flat, graft the centre top (Kitchener) or stitch closed invisibly with mattress stitch or by hand sewing.
4. Try on and sew button in place. Ensure button will pass through the buttonhole comfortably but snugly to keep front closed when desired.

Cable pattern (8-st cable)

Work cables in 8-st panels. Cable crosses occur on RS every 8 rows as indicated.

Pattern for an 8-st cable panel (repeat every 8 rows):
Row 1 (RS): k8 (or work k4, p4 if you prefer a reversed background)
Row 2 (WS): p8
Row 3: k8
Row 4: p8
Row 5: CROSS - C8F (slip 4 sts to cable needle and hold in front, k4, k4 from cable needle)
Row 6: p8
Row 7: k8
Row 8: p8
Repeat rows 1-8 for the cable repeat. For a left-leaning cable use C8B on alternate repeats if you want mirrored twists.

Customization & tips

• Length: To make a longer or shorter bolero, continue body rows before armhole bind-off or reduce them.
• Hood depth: Try on as you shape the hood; you can easily make it shallower or deeper.
• Cable visibility: Use a yarn with good stitch definition to show cables clearly.
• Button & closure: A toggle or decorative button works well with a small loop of yarn or a leather cord loop.

Troubleshooting

• Curls at front edges: Garter border prevents rolling; ensure the 3-st garter border is worked on both RS and WS (knit every row) to remain flat.
• Cables not aligning: Keep count of rows between cable crosses and mark every 8 rows with a removable marker to help.
• Armhole fit: If armholes feel tight, unpick back to before armhole BO and reduce BO count by 2 sts each side and rework.

Abbreviations & measurements assume knitting in US terms. If you prefer UK terminology: k = k, p = p, but a "k2tog" will be described as "k2tog" (same technique). Metric needle sizes and UK (old) sizes were given at top for clarity.

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