Cabled Hooded Sleeveless Shrug / Bolero (Knitted in the Round)

Designer: PurlJam (pattern tailored)

Website: https://purljam.verde.uk • Support: team@verde.uk • Socials: #purljam

Overview

This cropped, sleeveless shrug/bolero is worked mostly in the round with an all-over cable motif and a roomy hood. The silhouette is cropped to just under the bust; armholes are left open (no sleeves). The back and hood are worked from the body, then the hood is shaped and finished. This pattern is sized XS (S, M, L, XL) with clear stitch counts. Cables are worked in the round and crossed at regular intervals; directions include how to alternate cable direction for a balanced look.

Finished Measurements

• XS: 34" (86 cm) circumference
• S: 36" (91 cm)
• M: 40" (102 cm)
• L: 44" (112 cm)
• XL: 48" (122 cm)

Length from lower edge to base of hood: ~8" (20 cm) — adjust to taste.

Yarn

Worsted / Aran weight yarn is recommended for defined cables.

• Suggested yarn weight: Worsted / Aran (medium/10)
• Sample yardage (approx): XS 400 yds (366 m) / S 500 yds (457 m) / M 600 yds (549 m) / L 700 yds (640 m) / XL 800 yds (732 m)
• Ball example: 100 g = ~200 yds (183 m) (adjust based on your yarn label)

Note: yardage varies by stitch pattern and personal gauge. If substituting yarn, choose a yarn with similar gauge and stitch definition.

Needles

Use circulars and DPNs or magic loop as preferred. Provide both sizes for main fabric and slightly smaller for ribbing.

• Main circular (body & hood): US 8 / UK 6 / 5.0 mm — use 32" (80 cm) or 40" (100 cm) length or magic loop for larger circumferences
• Ribbing circular (lower edge, hood band, front bands): US 7 / UK 7 / 4.5 mm — 16" (40 cm) or magic loop
• Optional small circular or DPNs for hood crown: US 8 / UK 6 / 5.0 mm (same as main)

Gauge

18 sts x 24 rounds = 4" (10 cm) in stockinette on US 8 / 5.0 mm. Cables may pull gauge slightly; swatch cables to match tension.

Notions

• Stitch markers (at least 6)
• Cable needle (or use double-pointed/bent needle or left-hand crossing technique)
• Tapestry needle
• Stitch holders / waste yarn
• Waste yarn for provisional cast-on if you want a seamless lower edge (optional)

Abbreviations (US / UK)

• k = knit (k)
• p = purl (p)
• k2tog = knit 2 together
• ssk = slip, slip, knit (left-leaning decrease)
• C8F = Slip 4 sts to cable needle and hold in front, knit 4 from left needle, then knit 4 from cable needle (8-st right-leaning cable)
• C8B = Slip 4 sts to cable needle and hold in back, knit 4 from left needle, then knit 4 from cable needle (8-st left-leaning cable)
• rep = repeat

Pattern Notes

• The lower body is worked in the round from the hem up. After reaching armhole depth, stitches are divided into Front-Left / Back / Front-Right — the two front panels are set aside and the back is worked up and shaped into the hood.
• Cable pattern: an 8-st cable panel with purl spacers forms the main texture. The cable cross is worked every 8 rounds. For a balanced appearance, alternate the cable cross direction across adjacent cable panels on crossing rounds: odd-numbered cable panels use C8F, even-numbered use C8B.
• If you prefer to steek armholes and not divide, you may add extra reinforcement and cut; this pattern uses a simple divide-and-finish method (no steeks required).

Stitch Distribution / Cast-on Calculation

Cast-on stitch counts are multiples optimized to the cable repeat. Cast on the number of stitches shown for your size:

• XS: 150 sts
• S: 164 sts
• M: 178 sts
• L: 206 sts
• XL: 220 sts

These counts include edge rib stitches (6 sts at each edge) plus N repeats of the 14-st cable repeat (14 = p2 + C8 + p4). The layout is:

Edge rib (6 sts) • [p2, C8, p4] x N • Edge rib (6 sts)

Lower Rib (Hem)

1. With smaller circular (US 7 / 4.5 mm), CO 150 (164, 178, 206, 220) sts using a stretchy cast-on. Join to work in the round, being careful not to twist. Place marker for beginning of round.
2. Rib round: *k2, p2, k2* around (this is the 6-st edge rib).
3. Work rib for 1.5–2" (4–5 cm) or desired hem depth.

Set-up Round and Cable Pattern

1. Switch to main needles (US 8 / 5.0 mm).
2. Set-up Round (establish repeat): Start at your beginning-of-round marker and work the edge rib (6 sts) as established, then begin repeats: *p2, k8, p4* continuing across. End with edge rib (6 sts). Place a removable marker at the start of each 14-st repeat if helpful to track alternating cable crosses later.
3. Work Pattern Rounds as follows (these 8 rounds form the cable repeat):

Round 1: *p2, k8, p4* around (including edge ribs at ends) Rounds 2-7: Repeat Round 1 Round 8 (Cable cross round): Work across each repeat: *p2, (alternate across repeats: C8F for the first cable panel, C8B for the next, alternating around), p4* and finish edge rib.

Repeat Rounds 1-8 until total length from cast-on to underarm measures 6.5–8" (16–20 cm) or desired cropped length. For a longer version, stop later.

Divide For Armholes (Fronts and Back)

1. When you reach the desired height, you will divide the stitches into Front-Left (FL) / Back / Front-Right (FR). Use these approximate allocations (they are already worked into the cast-on count and pattern repeat):

• XS: FL 38 sts / Back 74 sts / FR 38 sts
• S: FL 41 sts / Back 82 sts / FR 41 sts
• M: FL 44 sts / Back 90 sts / FR 44 sts
• L: FL 51 sts / Back 104 sts / FR 51 sts
• XL: FL 55 sts / Back 110 sts / FR 55 sts

2. To divide: Working round to beginning-of-front-left marker, slip FL sts onto waste yarn or a stitch holder. Continue and slip Back sts onto a separate needle or holder to work next, then slip FR sts onto waste yarn/holder. You will now have only the Back stitches on your needles to work. Do NOT bind off armhole gaps — the spaces between back and front stitches are the armholes.

Work Back and Shape for Hood

1. With Back stitches on your needles, continue working in the established cable pattern in the round for the back portion only. If your back band contains partial cable repeats, maintain the pattern orientation from the body (continue alternating cable crosses when you reach cross rounds).
2. Work straight until the back measures 5" (12.5 cm) from the armhole division, or until you have the desired depth before starting the hood (this will sit at the nape of the neck).

Hood Foundation

1. When back is the desired depth, begin the hood. You will switch to working some rows flat (back-and-forth) to shape the crown. First, place a marker at the center back: count across the back stitches and mark the middle stitch or point between two sts if even.
2. For the hood, you will work back-and-forth: Row 1 (RS): work across all Back sts in pattern to the end of the round; Turn. Row 2 (WS): work back across. Continue following the cable pattern on RS rows and purling where background requires on WS rows. Maintain cable crossings when you encounter the next cable-crossing round: perform crossing on RS rows; if a crossing falls on a WS row, perform the cross on the next RS row to keep consistent appearance.

Hood Crown Decreases (example)

The following decreases are worked on RS rows; WS rows are worked in pattern (purls where appropriate, knit where appropriate). These decreases are suggestions — adjust to fit your gauge and hood size.

1. Set a total number of decrease rounds to shape a comfortable hood crown. Example decrease scheme over Back sts:

Row A (RS): *work in pattern to 2 sts before center marker, k2tog, slip marker, ssk, work to end Row B (WS): work pattern with no decreases Repeat Row A and Row B every RS/WS pair until you have decreased ~1/3 of the back stitches (or you have approx 2–3" across the top of the hood when laid flat). Then optionally decrease every other RS row until top is small enough (12–16 sts) to close.

2. When ~12–16 sts remain (or when hood top measures approx 7" from start of hood — adjust for head depth), break yarn leaving a tail, thread through remaining sts, pull tight to close the top of the hood and sew securely. Weave in ends.

Finish Front Panels and Neckline

1. Return FL sts to needles (or pick up from holders/waste yarn) and rejoin yarn. Work each front panel (FL and FR) separately or pick up and work both simultaneously on two needles as preferred.
2. Work in pattern for the front panels to the same vertical height as the back base where the hood begins. If your front contains partial cable repeats, continue the pattern placement so the cables align with the back/cab panels.
3. Once both fronts and the back have reached the same shoulder/hood-base height, join the fronts and hood stitches together along center front and back shoulders as follows: with RS facing, arrange FR stitches back onto the needle, then pick up/non-worked sts along the upper edge to join to the hood base, then graft or three-needle bind-off shoulders if you want a neat seam. Alternatively, overlap and mattress stitch shoulders and top of front into the hood seam.

Hood Facing / Neck Rib

1. With smaller circular (US 7) pick up stitches along the front edges and around the lower hood opening (pick up evenly to avoid puckering). Typical pick-up rate: pick up 3 sts for every 4 rows along the edge; adjust to make the band lie flat. Work in 2x2 rib (k2, p2) for 1.5–2" (4–5 cm) or desired depth for hood band and front bands.
2. Bind off loosely in pattern.

Armhole Edging

1. To tidy armholes: with smaller circulars (US 7), pick up and work stitches evenly around each armhole edge. Recommended pick-up rate: 3 sts per 4 rows. Work in 1x1 or 2x2 rib for 3/4–1" (2 cm) and bind off loosely in pattern. Alternatively, crochet a single or double crochet edging.

Blocking and Finishing

• Block gently to open cables and align motifs: wet-block or steam-block according to yarn instructions. Shape to measurements and let dry.
• Weave in ends, sew any shoulder or hood seams securely, and tidy edges.

Customizing Tips

• To lengthen the shrug, work more rounds in the main cable pattern before dividing for armholes.
• To make a longer bolero (hip length), increase total cast-on by adding repeats (14 sts per repeat) to maintain cable pattern proportions.
• For a softer drape, go up one needle size for the body; for crisper cables, use the stated needles or one size smaller.

Troubleshooting / FAQ

• If cables look tight, block aggressively; cables usually relax when washed and blocked.
• To avoid laddering where fronts meet the back at armholes, pick up and work a small reinforced stitch column or use a sewn facing.

Summary of Sizes & Yarn (quick reference)

• Needles: US 8 (UK 6 / 5.0 mm) main. US 7 (UK 7 / 4.5 mm) ribbing.
• Yardage: XS 400 yds (366 m) • S 500 yds (457 m) • M 600 yds (549 m) • L 700 yds (640 m) • XL 800 yds (732 m).
• Cast-on: XS 150 • S 164 • M 178 • L 206 • XL 220 sts

Enjoy knitting! If you need a schematic or help converting to different gauge or yarn weight, contact support at team@verde.uk or visit purljam.verde.uk. Share your makes with the community: #purljam

Created by purlJam with the help of magic AI dust. Shop Verde for patterns and yarn.

Disclaimer: Enjoy the fun! Accuracy of patterns cannot be guaranteed. Remember to use and share content responsibly when engaging with this AI-powered app.