Cabled Sleeveless Shrug with Hood

An approachable, modern hooded shrug worked in panels with bold 8-st cables and garter-edge bands. Written for six sizes (XS–XXL). The pattern is modular so you can lengthen/shorten body and hood easily.

Finished Measurements (approx.)

• XS: 36" (91.5cm) finished bust
• S: 40" (102cm)
• M: 44" (112cm)
• L: 48" (122cm)
• XL: 52" (132cm)
• XXL: 56" (142cm)

Gauge

18 sts and 24 rows = 4" / 10cm in stockinette on larger needles (after blocking). Always swatch in pattern and adjust needle size to obtain gauge.

Yarn

Aran / Worsted weight yarn. Sample worked in a plied, smooth aran yarn.

• Yardage (by size):
• XS: 800m (875yd) ~ 4 x 100g skeins (100g = 200m / 219yd)
• S: 1000m (1094yd) ~ 5 x 100g skeins
• M: 1200m (1312yd) ~ 6 x 100g skeins
• L: 1400m (1536yd) ~ 7 x 100g skeins
• XL: 1600m (1748yd) ~ 8 x 100g skeins
• XXL: 1800m (1962yd) ~ 9 x 100g skeins

Notes: If your skeins have different meterage, calculate total required meters above. The pattern is written so you can reduce/increase repeats to use more or less yarn.

Needles & Notions

• smaller needles (for rib/hem): US 6 / UK (old) 8 / 4.0 mm — circular 24" / 60 cm or straight
• main needles (for body & cables): US 8 / UK (old) 6 / 5.0 mm — circular 24" / 60 cm (or length to fit stitches comfortably)
• optional slightly smaller for rib transitions: US 7 / UK (old) 7 / 4.5 mm
• cable needle (any size)
• stitch markers, tapestry needle, waste yarn
• set of double-pointed needles or small circular for finishing crown if working decreases in the round

Abbreviations

US terms used. If you prefer UK terms translate: K = tr, P = purl.

• K = knit
• P = purl
• st(s) = stitch(es)
• RS = right side
• WS = wrong side
• C8F = slip 4 sts to cable needle and hold in front, K4 from left needle, then K4 from cable needle (4-over-4 forward)
• C8B = slip 4 sts to cable needle and hold in back, K4 from left needle, then K4 from cable needle (4-over-4 back)
• YO = yarn over
• K2tog = knit 2 together
• p2tog = purl 2 together
• CO = cast on
• BO = bind off

Stitch Patterns

Edge (Garter) Band

All edge/band sts worked in garter (knit every row) to give a stable, non-rolling edge. When working in the round, garter bands are worked back-and-forth on picked-up rows or created with slipped-stitch selvedge — the instructions below use back-and-forth for bands.

Rib Hem

K2, P2 rib for hem depth (see size chart for recommended hem depth).

8-st Cable (Main motif)

Pattern over 8 sts, worked over a multiple of 8 across the band for body panels:
Row 1 (RS): K2, P4, K2
Row 2 (WS): P2, K4, P2
Row 3: K2, C8F (the 8 sts are the cable), K2  -- (see note below)
Row 4: P2, K4, P2
Row 5: K2, P4, K2
Row 6: P2, K4, P2
Repeat rows 1–6; do the cable cross (C8F on row 3) on every 6th row. Alternate C8F and C8B every other crossing if you prefer a rope that tilts; the written instructions use alternating crosses: C8F then C8B on the next cable row.

Note: When your pattern repeat includes additional plain knit/purl stitches between cables, maintain the stitch order. The cable block described above is 8 sts wide and creates a bold 4-over-4 cable.

Pattern Notes & Construction

Garment is worked in three flat panels: one Back and two identical Fronts. Each panel has a garter edge (3 sts), a cable-field (multiples of 8 sts) and a small inner band. You will seam the shoulder sections and pick up and knit the hood around the neck opening. The fronts are open — no buttons — with a deep garter band forming the face of the hood and front edges.

Cast-on numbers listed below already include edge stitches (3-st garter edges) and the cable repeats. If your gauge differs slightly, change the number of 8-st repeats to fit your desired finished width. Keep the same number of edge sts on each side.

Cast‑on (stitch counts per piece)

All counts include edge garter sts (3 sts selvedge each side).

• XS — Back: 78 sts. Front (each): 40 sts.
• S — Back: 86 sts. Front (each): 44 sts.
• M — Back: 102 sts. Front (each): 48 sts.
• L — Back: 110 sts. Front (each): 52 sts.
• XL — Back: 118 sts. Front (each): 56 sts.
• XXL — Back: 126 sts. Front (each): 60 sts.

If you prefer more ease or longer cable panel, add a multiple of 8 sts to the cable area of any panel.

Back (work flat)

1. Using smaller needles (US 6 / 4.0 mm), CO the number of sts for your size.
2. Work K2, P2 rib for 1.5" / 4cm (or desired hem depth), ending with a RS row.
3. Switch to larger needles (US 8 / 5.0 mm). Place 3 sts at each edge into garter-edge position (these 3 sts will be knit every row). The center area is your cable-field: arrange your stitches so the cable repeats (multiples of 8) fit between the garter edges. Example layout (for a panel with two repeats): 3 sts garter edge, [8-st cable repeat x n], 3 sts garter edge.
4. Begin main pattern: Work rows of cable pattern across each RS/WS row, keeping edge sts in garter (k every row). Work until piece measures from cast-on to shoulder (see recommended lengths):

• Hem to underarm (approx): XS 10" / 25cm; S 10.5" / 26.5cm; M 11" / 28cm; L 11.5" / 29cm; XL 12" / 30.5cm; XXL 12.5" / 31.5cm.

5. Shoulder shaping: You will create a very slight slope by binding off a small number of sts at each shoulder over 4 rows. Standard option: BO 6 sts at beginning of next 2 RS rows, then BO 6 sts at beginning of next 2 RS rows (total 24 sts shaped for large sizes — adjust by size below). If you prefer a simpler finish, you can bind off all shoulder sts at once and seam later. Suggested shoulder BO scheme (adjust to size):

• XS: BO 6 sts at beg of next 2 RS rows, then BO 3 sts at beg of next 2 RS rows (or BO 15–24 sts total depending on cast-on)
• S: BO 7,7 then 4,4
• M: BO 8,8 then 6,6
• L: BO 9,9 then 6,6
• XL: BO 10,10 then 6,6
• XXL: BO 11,11 then 7,7

Leave center sts (neck) unbound where hood will be picked up — the exact center is whatever remains between the two shoulder slopes.

Fronts (make 2 — left and right)

1. CO each front count using smaller needles; work K2,P2 rib for same hem depth.
2. Switch to larger needles and work the main cable pattern as on the back. Keep the outer edge (the front edge) as a 3-st garter selvedge and the inner edge (center front) as a simple knit/purl column for neat shaping.
3. Work until back of shrug reaches the same measured depth as the back hem to underarm. Mirror shoulder shaping to match the back (do shoulder bind-offs on the outer edge to match back slope). When you reach the shoulder shaping, shape the neckline (inner edge) by decreasing to form the low front: on RS rows at the inner edge: Dec 1 st every RS row 6–10 times (depending on size and how deep you want the V/front), then continue until shoulder shaping matches the back.
4. Repeat for the second front, reversing the shaping (mirror).

Seaming

1. Block panels lightly to measurements.
2. Align shoulders and seam using mattress stitch for a neat join. Leave armholes open — the seam stops where your armhole depth begins.

Hood

Pick up stitches evenly around the neck opening (across the back neck and both front neck edges) using smaller needles. Typical pick-up counts (approx): XS 110–120 sts, S 120–130 sts, M 130–150 sts, L 140–160 sts, XL 150–170 sts, XXL 160–180 sts — pick up a number that is divisible by 8 where possible so cable repeats line up. Work the hood in the round or flat (we recommend flat so you can maintain garter front bands).

1. Work 6 rows in garter along the front face to form the front hood band (knit every row when worked flat).
2. Switch to cable pattern established on the body and continue in the round/flat: follow the 8-st cable repeats across hood, maintaining garter front edge where the hood meets the fronts.
3. Continue hood until it measures from pick-up to crown approx: XS 10" / 25cm; S 10.5" / 26.5cm; M 11" / 28cm; L 11.5" / 29cm; XL 12" / 30.5cm; XXL 12.5" / 31.5cm, or to personal preference.
4. Crown shaping: Decrease evenly across the hood every other round/row until < 16–24 sts remain. Break yarn, thread tail through remaining sts and pull tightly closed. Weave in ends and block hood to shape.

Finishing

1. Seam side seams if you desire a more closed underarm, or leave open for a sleeveless shrug look. A typical shallow seam of 1–2" / 2.5–5cm beneath the shoulder keeps the shrug anchored without constraining the arm.
2. Weave in all ends, trim, and block garment to measurements. Blocking will settle cables and even the fabric.
3. Optional: Add a narrow I-cord along the front edge or a small button/loop at the throat for closure.

Adjustments & Fitting

• Want a longer hood? Add 1–2" / 2.5–5cm to the hood length before crown decreases.
• Need narrower or wider fronts? Add or remove multiples of 8 sts to the front panels.
• If your gauge differs, recalc stitch counts: stitches per inch = (gauge sts / 4). Desired stitches = desired inches x stitches per inch. Then adjust repeats to multiples of 8 + 6 edge sts for the back and multiples of 8 + 4 for fronts.

Tips

• Use a lifeline before starting cable crosses if you are trying a new cable for the first time.
• Keep your cables relaxed; don’t tighten your cable crosses or the fabric will pucker.
• When picking up for the hood, pick up slightly loosely to avoid a tight neckline.

Abbreviated Schematic

Back panel: garter 3 sts — cable field (n x 8 sts) — garter 3 sts
Each Front: garter 3 sts (outer) — cable field (n x 8 sts) — inner band 3–4 sts

Support & Pattern Credit

Pattern written for PurlJam. For help or questions: email team@verde.uk. Visit https://purljam.verde.uk for more patterns and galleries. Share finished pieces with #purljam on socials.

Enjoy knitting — keep cables slow and steady and the stitches will sing.

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