Cactuar Toy (Crochet Amigurumi)

Detailed amigurumi crochet pattern to make a Cactuar-inspired toy (Final Fantasy). Worked in continuous rounds; made with worsted/aran weight yarn. Finished size: approximately 6.5 in / 16.5 cm tall (depends on hook/gauge and stuffing).

Materials

• Yarn: Worsted/Aran (US Medium 4). Suggested amounts: Main green: 50 g (1.76 oz) — approx 110 yd / 100 m. Accent (spines): 10 g (0.35 oz) — approx 22 yd / 20 m. Black (eyes/mouth): 5 g (0.18 oz) — approx 11 yd / 10 m. (Standard ball: 100 g = 220 yd / 200 m.)
• Crochet hook: Recommended: US G/6 (4.00 mm); UK (old) 8; Metric 4.00 mm. For a firmer fabric (tighter amigurumi) try US E/4 (3.50 mm) = UK 9 = 3.5 mm.
• Tapestry/darning needle for sewing and weaving ends.
• Polyfill stuffing (fibrefill) — moderate amount to firmly stuff.
• Stitch markers (or a scrap yarn loop) for marking beginning of round.
• Optional: safety eyes 6–10 mm (not recommended for children under 3) or embroider eyes with black yarn.
• Scissors, pins for positioning parts.

Gauge

Approx: 18 sc x 20 rows = 4 in / 10 cm using 4.0 mm hook. Gauge is not critical but affects finished size; use a smaller hook than the yarn suggests for firm amigurumi.

Abbreviations (US terms) & UK equivalents

• ch = chain
• mr = magic ring (or adjustable ring)
• sc = single crochet (UK: dc)
• inc = increase: 2 sc in same stitch (UK: 2 dc in same st)
• dec = single crochet decrease (invisible decrease recommended) (UK: dc2tog)
• sl st = slip stitch (UK: sl st)
• st(s) = stitch(es)

Notes

• Work in continuous rounds unless stated. Place a stitch marker at the first stitch of each round and move it up as you work.
• Stuff firmly as you go to keep shape even.
• When using safety eyes, insert before stuffing/closing and secure from inside. For toys for young children, embroider eyes instead.

Pattern: Body & Head (worked as one piece)

All with Main Green.

1. R1: mr 6 (6)
2. R2: inc around (12)
3. R3: (inc, sc 1) x6 (18)
4. R4: (inc, sc 2) x6 (24)
5. R5: (inc, sc 3) x6 (30)
6. R6: (inc, sc 4) x6 (36) — this is the widest round
7. R7–R18: sc 36 (12 rounds) — work even to build height; these form the mid-body (adjust rounds for taller/shorter toy)
8. R19: (dec, sc 4) x6 (30)
9. R20: (dec, sc 3) x6 (24)
10. R21: (dec, sc 2) x6 (18)
11. Place and attach safety eyes or mark eye positions on R11–R12 about 6 sts apart; embroider eyes/mouth after assembly. (If using safety eyes, insert between R10–R12 before stuffing.)
12. R22: (dec, sc 1) x6 (12) — begin stuffing firmly; continue stuffing as you close
13. R23: dec around (6). Fasten off and use yarn tail to close hole by threading through remaining stitches and pulling tight; weave tail to the inside.

Arms (make 2)

Arms are narrow tubes with a little elbow. Work in Main Green.

1. R1: mr 6 (6)
2. R2: inc around (12)
3. R3–R9: sc 12 (7 rounds) — length of arm shaft
4. Optional: to create a subtle elbow, lightly stuff, fold at row 5 and sew a couple of stitches across the fold to keep bend; continue stuffing to the end.
5. R10: sc 12, flatten end and sl st across last round or decrease 6 to close for a neat end; leave a long tail for sewing.

Legs (make 2)

Legs are short thick tubes; they will be sewn to the bottom of the body with a slight forward lean.

1. R1: mr 6 (6)
2. R2: inc around (12)
3. R3–R7: sc 12 (5 rounds)
4. R8: dec around (6). Fasten off leaving long tail for sewing. Lightly stuff. When attaching, position so the leg sticks forward slightly; sew firmly and shape the bend with stitches across the ankle if desired.

Spines / Back Spikes (make ~10–12)

These are tiny nubs crocheted or embroidered in lighter accent color.

1. Method A — tiny cone (crochet): With Accent color: ch2, 3 sc in 2nd ch (3), sl st into next st or break yarn leaving tail for sewing. Sew to back in rows: small row near top of head (3 spikes), middle row (4 spikes), lower row (3 spikes). Space evenly on back center.
2. Method B — embroidered spikes: Using Accent color and tapestry needle, make short straight stitches from surface into stuffing to create dashed spikes. This is quicker and flatter.

Mouth & Eyes (embroidery option)

• Embroidery: With black yarn or embroidery thread, use backstitch or satin stitch to make two small oval eyes and a wide dash-shaped mouth. Eyes are small ovals about 2–3 stitches tall. Mouth is a horizontal dash about 6–8 stitches long, positioned one or two rounds below the eyes.
• If using safety eyes, insert them before stuffing and closing the body. Recommend 6–8 mm eyes for this scale.

Assembly

1. Block/shape pieces lightly with fingers if needed. Position arms on the body between R9 and R12 (counting from top) pointing slightly upward and outward to mimic the Cactuar’s running pose. Pin before sewing.
2. Sew arms securely with mattress or whip stitch; weave in ends into body. Use extra stitches where join needs to be firm so arms can hold pose.
3. Sew legs to the base: space them evenly on the front half of the base, leaving a few stitches between. Attach firmly and shape a slight forward lean by sewing a few anchor stitches on the front of each foot.
4. Attach spikes along the back center in 3 staggered rows: 3 at top (head), 4 at mid-back, 3 at lower back. Space evenly; pins help with placement. Sew spikes firmly and weave tails inside.
5. Embroider or attach eyes & mouth. Make small reinforcement knots and weave ends inside body.

Finishing

• Weave in all loose ends and trim excess. Ensure all attachments are secure. If the toy is for a small child, remove any small parts that could be choking hazards (safety eyes) and use embroidery instead.
• Lightly shape with your hands to ensure the Cactuar stands and leans as you like.

Adjustments & Tips

• Smaller gauge (smaller hook) yields a firmer, smaller Cactuar; increase rounds between R7–R18 to create a taller body.
• To add more character, use a slightly darker green for spines or contrast yarn for mouth inside.
• For a plush, rounder body, add more stuffing; for a softer toy, reduce stuffing slightly.

Copyright & Notes

This pattern is for personal use and handmade items for sale. Do not reproduce the pattern for commercial pattern sale. If selling finished toys, please credit: pattern adapted from PurlJam tutorials; website: https://purljam.verde.uk; support: team@verde.uk; socials: #purljam.

Have fun crocheting your Cactuar! If you need help with a step write to team@verde.uk or tag your makes with #purljam.

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