Cheeky Banana Tee (Adult knitted pullover) - tasteful, stylized motif

Note: I can’t create explicit genital imagery. Here’s a playful, stylized "cheeky banana" motif as a fun, non-explicit replacement you can wear with a wink. This is a seamless, top-down raglan tee worked in DK/light-worsted weight yarn, with the motif added by duplicate-stitch after blocking (safer and easier than intarsia on a curved body).

Finished measurements (approx)

XS: bust 32” (81 cm)
S: bust 36” (91 cm)
M: bust 40” (102 cm)
L: bust 44” (112 cm)
XL: bust 48” (122 cm)

Yarn (suggested)

DK/Light Worsted, smooth plied 100% wool or wool-blend for good stitch definition.

100 g skein = approx. 230–250 m (251–273 yd) (typical DK)
Yardage required (approx): XS 800 yd (732 m); S 900 yd (823 m); M 1000 yd (915 m); L 1100 yd (1006 m); XL 1200 yd (1097 m)
Estimated skeins (100 g, ~250 yd): XS 4 skeins; S 4 skeins; M 4 skeins; L 5 skeins; XL 5 skeins

Needles

Circular needles (for magic loop or long circular): US 6 (UK old 8) – 4.0 mm – for ribbing and general knitting
Circular needles: US 7 (UK old 7) – 4.5 mm – for body if you need a slightly looser fabric (check your gauge)
Double-pointed needles same sizes for small circumference sleeve finishing, or continue with magic loop

Notions

Stitch markers (4), tapestry needle, waste yarn for provisional cast-on (optional), measuring tape
Contrast yarn for duplicate-stitch banana motif: main banana color + darker color for outline + small accent color for leaf

Gauge

20 sts and 26 rows = 4” (10 cm) in stockinette using 4.5 mm (US 7) needles. Adjust needle size if needed.

Abbreviations

CO = cast on
K = knit
P = purl
K2tog = knit two together
PSSO = pass slipped stitch over
RS = right side
WS = wrong side
St(s) = stitch(es)
PM = place marker
SM = slip marker

Construction overview

Worked top-down in the round to the underarm, separate sleeves, continue body in the round to desired length. Sleeve caps set into raglan lines automatically. Add the duplicate-stitch motif on the finished, blocked front.

Sizes and cast-on

All sizes use same raglan shaping; the cast-on number below yields the listed finished bust after positive ease approx 2”–4” depending on preference. If you prefer close-fit, subtract 4–6 sts from cast-on.

XS: CO 112 sts
S: CO 120 sts
M: CO 128 sts
L: CO 136 sts
XL: CO 144 sts

Raglan yoke (top-down)

Use 4.0 mm (US 6) needles for a firmer neckline ribbing, switch to 4.5 mm (US 7) for body if needed.

CO required sts using your preferred method; join for working in the round, place a marker for beginning of round.
Work 1½” (4 cm) of 1x1 rib (K1, P1) or preferred neck rib.
Change to stockinette (knit every round) and begin raglan increases as follows: place 4 raglan markers dividing the body into Front, Sleeve, Back, Sleeve. The easiest distribution: Front = 1/4 of stitches minus raglan markers, Sleeve = 1/8 of stitches, Back = 1/4, Sleeve = 1/8. Example, XS CO112: Front 28, Sleeve 14, Back 28, Sleeve 14 (adjust if your CO differs).
Raglan increase round (RS): K to 1 st before marker, M1R, K1, SM, K1, M1L, K to next marker; repeat at each raglan marker = 8 sts increased every 2 rounds (every RS round if you prefer faster shaping, or every other round for gentler slope). Continue until yoke reaches desired depth: typically about 8–10" (20–25 cm) measured from cast-on to underarm OR until you have the desired sleeve stitch count. Sleeve stitch counts (approx) when ready to separate: XS sleeves ~36 sts each; S 40 sts; M 44 sts; L 48 sts; XL 52 sts. (If you like longer or shorter yoke, stop earlier/later.)

Separate body and sleeves

When yoke depth is reached, place sleeve stitches on scrap yarn or a holder (slip them off needles). Join body stitches by knitting across front and back stitches in the round, making sure not to twist. Continue in stockinette in the round until body reaches desired length: typical tee length 22” (56 cm) from shoulder to hem (adjust).
Work 1” (2.5 cm) of 1x1 rib for hem using 4.0 mm needles. Bind off loosely in rib.

Sleeves

Transfer sleeve stitches to needles. Join in the round, pick up 2 sts at each underarm gap if needed to avoid holes. Work stockinette in the round, decreasing 0 or 1 st evenly every 3–5 rounds to shape if desired, to achieve a comfortable sleeve circumference (short-sleeve length shown: 7” (18 cm) from underarm). For a classic tee short sleeve, work 6–8” from underarm then 1” rib and bind off. For long sleeves, work to length then rib and bind off.

Blocking and finishing

Weave in ends, steam or wet-block according to yarn label to even stitches and set gauge.
Seams: minimal finishing; tidy any loose floats inside raglan lines.

Adding the cheeky motif (duplicate-stitch method)

Duplicate-stitch on the front after blocking so fabric is stable. The motif below is a stylized banana approx 28 sts wide by 36 rows high on the finished fabric (using the gauge above). Adjust placement so the center of the motif sits about 4” (10 cm) below the collar on the front for most sizes; use tailoring pins to mark position.

Suggested colors: bright yellow (main), darker yellow/gold for shading and outline, small green for leaf tip. Use a yarn needle and stranded duplicate-stitch technique, or embroidery yarn if you prefer a flatter finish.

Banana motif schematic (28w x 36h)  X = colored stitch, . = background
(This is a schematic; interpret each X as one duplicate-stitch on a knit stitch)
Row36: ...........XXXXX...........
Row35: ..........XXXXXXX..........
Row34: ..........XXXXXXXX.........
Row33: .........XXXXXXXXX.........
Row32: ........XXXXXXXXXXX........
Row31: .......XXXXXXXXXXXXX.......
Row30: ......XXXXXXXXXXXXXXX......
Row29: .....XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX.....
Row28: .....XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX.....
Row27: ....XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX....
Row26: ...XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX...
Row25: ..XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX..
Row24: ..XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX..
Row23: .XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX.
Row22: .XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX.
Row21: .XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX.
Row20: .XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX.
Row19: ..XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX..
Row18: ..XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX..
Row17: ...XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX...
Row16: ....XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX....
Row15: .....XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX.....
Row14: ......XXXXXXXXXXXXXXX......
Row13: .......XXXXXXXXXXXXX.......
Row12: ........XXXXXXXXXXX........
Row11: .........XXXXXXXXX.........
Row10: ..........XXXXXXX..........
Row 9: ...........XXXXX...........
Row 8: ............XXX............
Row 7: ............XXX............
Row 6: ............XXX............
Row 5: .............X.............
Row 4: ...........................
Row 3: ...........................
Row 2: ...........................
Row 1: ...........................

Use the darker color to outline selected outer stitches (usually a single stitch line along the curved edges) to suggest definition. The small green leaf is a 3x3 block at the upper curve—stitch it in a contrasting green color following the schematic’s upper-most X cluster.

Duplicate-stitch tips: work from center outward, secure yarn tails neatly on WS, keep tension even so the motif lies flat. If you’d prefer, you may knit a separate intarsia panel before joining to the body, but duplicate stitch is recommended for easier shaping and fit adjustments.

Custom sizing notes

To alter fit, change ease: subtract 2–4” for closer fit or add 2–4” for relaxed fit. Adjust cast-on in multiples of 4 to keep raglan math simple (so sleeve and body counts divide cleanly).

Care

Follow yarn label. Handwash and block if using wool; machine-washable yarns can be cared for in the machine according to their instructions.

If you want this same tee as a crochet pattern or prefer the motif to be an appliqué instead of duplicate-stitch, tell me which and I’ll provide a full step-by-step conversion.

Pattern support: https://purljam.verde.uk • email: team@verde.uk • socials: #purljam

purlJam

The knitting and crochet AI pattern pixie