Chocobo Amigurumi Toy (Crochet)

Size: approx 9" (23 cm) tall. Pattern uses continuous rounds (spiral); a brief knitting alternative is given at the end.

Materials

• Yarn: Worsted/Aran (US 4). Typical base: 200 yards / 100 g (183 m / 100 g). For this toy: Main yellow ~150 yards (137 m). Accent brown (beak/feet) ~20 yards (18 m). White & black: <5 yards each (metric shown).
• Hook / Needles: Crochet: US H/8 — UK 6 — Metric 5.0 mm. Knitting alternative needles: US 8 — UK 6 — Metric 5.0 mm.
• Safety eyes: 12 mm (approx 1/2" / 12 mm) or 10 mm for a smaller look; or embroider eyes for young children.
• Polyfill stuffing, yarn needle, stitch marker, scissors. Optional: pipe cleaner or floral wire for posable legs, small amount of fabric glue.

Abbreviations (US crochet terms) / UK equivalents

• ch = chain (UK: ch)
• sc = single crochet (UK: dc)
• inc = increase (2 sc in same stitch)
• dec = single crochet decrease (invisible dec recommended)
• sl st = slip stitch
• st(s) = stitch(es)
• FO = fasten off

Gauge

Approx 16 sc = 4" (10 cm) using 5.0 mm hook in continuous rounds. Gauge isn’t critical for amigurumi but affects final size and stuffing amount.

Notes

• Work in continuous spiral rounds unless a join is specifically called for. Use a stitch marker to mark round start.
• Stuff firmly as you go to maintain shape and minimize gaps between stitches.
• All round-end numbers are total stitch counts for that round (in parentheses).

Pattern

Body & Head (worked as one, yellow)

Start with a magic ring.

R1: 6 sc in MR (6)
R2: inc around (12)
R3: (sc, inc) x6 (18)
R4: (2 sc, inc) x6 (24)
R5: (3 sc, inc) x6 (30)
R6: (4 sc, inc) x6 (36)
R7–12: sc around (36) 6 rounds
R13: (4 sc, dec) x6 (30)
R14: (3 sc, dec) x6 (24)
Place safety eyes between R10 and R11 approx 7–9 sts apart. Begin stuffing firmly.
R15: (2 sc, dec) x6 (18)
R16: (1 sc, dec) x6 (12)
R17: dec x6 (6)
FO leaving a long tail. Close remaining hole by running tail through front loops and pulling tight; weave in end.

Beak (make 1, brown or orange)

Option: crochet a 3D beak. The version below creates a slightly flattened cone that is sewn to the face.

R1: 6 sc in MR (6)
R2: inc around (12)
R3: (sc, inc) x6 (18)
R4: sc around (18)
R5: sc around (18)
R6: (2 sc, dec) x4, sc x2 = approx 14 (adjust to taper)
FO leaving a long tail. Fold the base slightly and sew the sides together to form the beak. Stuff very lightly. Attach centered under the eyes; anchor with several secure stitches behind beak.

Wings (make 2, yellow)

ch 6
Row1: sc in 2nd ch from hook and across (5) turn
Row2: sc across (5) turn
Row3: sc across (5) turn
Row4: sc across (5) turn
Row5: dec, sc, dec (3) turn
Row6: sc across (3)
FO leaving tail. Sew wings to body sides, aligning top of wing around rows R8–12. Sew the top edge securely and leave lower edge slightly free so the wing can sit out.

Legs & Feet (make 2)

Feet are short and flat; legs are tubes attached above them.

Feet (brown):
R1: 6 sc in MR (6)
R2: (sc, inc) x3 (9)
R3: sc around (9)
R4: sc around (9)
Flatten foot, stitch the ends to create a slightly oval foot shape and FO leaving tail.

Leg (yellow):
ch 6, join to form a small tube with sl st or work in rounds sc around 5 sts
Work sc around for 6–8 rounds (adjust length ~2"/5 cm). Insert pipe cleaner or wire if using for poseable legs then stuff lightly. Sew top of leg to body bottom; sew foot to leg and secure.
Spacing: attach legs to bottom of body approx 6–8 sts apart (adjust to balance toy).

Crest (make 3, yellow)

ch 4, sc in 2nd ch from hook and across (3), FO leaving long tail. Stack and stagger the three crest pieces and sew to top of head center for a tufted look.

Tail (4–5 feathers, yellow)

Make small leaf/feather shapes:
ch 8, sc in 2nd ch from hook and each ch across (7), 2 sc in last ch, continue working along opposite side of foundation chain to thicken — sc back to start. FO leaving tail. Make 4–5 and arrange fan-like across lower back; sew securely.

Assembly

• Sew beak centered under eyes and reinforce with hidden stitches behind beak.
• Attach wings at sides around R8–12; stitch along top edge and allow lower edge to sit free.
• Sew legs to base of body, spacing evenly for balance. If using wire, route it into the body and anchor with a few stitches so legs don’t pull out.
• Sew crest pieces stacked and secure tail feathers overlapping for fullness.
• Embroider small nostrils with 2 short black stitches on beak; optional tiny brow stitches over eyes for expression.

Finishing

• Weave in all ends, trim excess.
• Adjust stuffing to even out shape and avoid lumps—add more if needed before final closing.
• For extra security add small stitches through joins and hide the knot inside the body.
• Surface details: use a contrasting yarn or embroidery thread to add feather lines by making short straight stitches radiating from head toward body.
• Safety note: for children under 3, replace safety eyes with embroidered eyes and double-secure or avoid small parts.

Knitting alternative (outline)

To knit instead: use US 8 needles (UK 6 — 5.0 mm). Work two mirrored flat ovals for front and back using increases to the widest point then decreases, seam and stuff. Knit small tubes for legs/crest and a small 3D beak, then sew assembled pieces together. Duplicate stitch can be used for eye highlights or embroider them after assembly.

Troubleshooting & Tips

• If your fabric is loose, go down a hook size for a tighter fabric and neater stuffing finish.
• To position eyes symmetrically, mark directly on the fabric with pins and check mirror placement before attaching.
• Use short, firm stitches for the beak to keep shape; go slowly when sewing small pieces on to avoid visible stitching.

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