Classic Knit Beanie (Worsted) - Detailed Pattern
A simple, versatile, top-down beanie in worsted weight yarn. Includes sizes from newborn to adult large, clear needle conversions (US, UK old, metric), stitch abbreviations, gauge, step-by-step instructions for ribbed brim, stockinette body, crown shaping, finishing and optional pompom. Website: https://purljam.verde.uk Support: team@verde.uk Socials: #purljam
Materials
- Yarn: Worsted weight (Category 4 / Aran). Typical yarn used: approx. see yardage by size below. Labels often say "Worsted" or "Aran". Imperial and Metric yardage are given per size.
- Needles (circular & DPN option): Use whichever creates the gauge below. Recommended: 16"/40cm circular + set of DPNs or magic loop. Needle size conversions (approx): US 7 = 4.5 mm = UK 7; US 8 = 5.0 mm = UK 6. Use US 7 (4.5 mm) for a firmer/denser fabric or US 8 (5.0 mm) for a slightly slouchier hat. For small circumferences you may prefer 16"/40cm or 24"/60cm circulars and 4"/10cm DPNs for finishing.
- Notions: stitch marker, tapestry needle, scissors, optional pompom maker or scrap cardboard.
Sizes & Finished Circumference
- Newborn: 13" / 33 cm — Cast on 56 sts — Yardage: 75 yd / 69 m
- 0–3 months: 14" / 36 cm — Cast on 64 sts — Yardage: 90 yd / 82 m
- 3–6 months: 16" / 41 cm — Cast on 72 sts — Yardage: 100 yd / 91 m
- Toddler: 18" / 46 cm — Cast on 80 sts — Yardage: 110 yd / 100 m
- Child: 19" / 48 cm — Cast on 88 sts — Yardage: 125 yd / 114 m
- Teen: 20" / 51 cm — Cast on 92 sts — Yardage: 135 yd / 123 m
- Adult S: 21" / 53 cm — Cast on 96 sts — Yardage: 150 yd / 137 m
- Adult M: 22" / 56 cm — Cast on 100 sts — Yardage: 165 yd / 151 m
- Adult L: 23" / 58 cm — Cast on 104 sts — Yardage: 175 yd / 160 m
Gauge
18 sts and 24 rows = 4" / 10 cm in stockinette on US 7 (4.5 mm). Always swatch in the stitch pattern and measure. Adjust needle size if needed to match gauge for fit.
Abbreviations
- K = knit
- P = purl
- SSK = slip, slip, knit (left-leaning decrease)
- CO = cast on
- BO = bind off
- St(s) = stitch(es)
- Rnd = round
- RS = right side
Notes
- This pattern is worked in the round from the brim up to the crown. Use a stretchy cast-on (long-tail or provisional) if you prefer. Join carefully to avoid twisting.
- Brim can be worked as folded (double thickness) by casting on twice the required rib height and folding, or worked 1x1 or 2x2 rib.
- Crown decreases are written to work with cast-on counts that are multiples of 8 (pattern provided uses those numbers). If your cast-on count differs, adjust decreases to maintain even spacing.
Pattern
1. Cast on: Using long-tail cast-on, cast on the stitch count for your desired size (see sizes above). Place marker and join in the round, being careful not to twist.
2. Brim: Work rib for desired depth:
- Folded brim: Work 2x2 rib (K2, P2) for 3" / 7.5 cm (this will be folded up). For infants shorten to 1–1.5" / 2.5–4 cm.
- Single-layer brim: Work 2x2 rib for 1.5–2.5" / 4–6.5 cm depending on preference.
3. Body: Switch to stockinette in the round (K every round) and work until the hat measures from cast-on to top approximately:
- Newborn: 4.0" / 10 cm
- 0–3m: 4.5" / 11.5 cm
- 3–6m: 5.0" / 12.5 cm
- Toddler: 5.5" / 14 cm
- Child: 6.0" / 15 cm
- Teen: 6.5" / 16.5 cm
- Adult S: 7.0" / 18 cm
- Adult M: 7.5" / 19 cm
- Adult L: 8.0" / 20 cm
4. Crown shaping (works with stitch counts that are multiples of 8):
Note: Decrease rounds are worked every other round (decrease round, plain round, decrease round, plain round) so the decreases distribute evenly and leave time for the fabric to settle.
Rnd A: *K6, K2tog* repeat to end of rnd.
Rnd B: Knit all sts.
Rnd C: *K5, K2tog* repeat to end of rnd.
Rnd D: Knit all sts.
Rnd E: *K4, K2tog* repeat to end of rnd.
Rnd F: Knit all sts.
Rnd G: *K3, K2tog* repeat to end of rnd.
Rnd H: Knit all sts.
Rnd I: *K2, K2tog* repeat to end of rnd.
Rnd J: Knit all sts.
Rnd K: *K1, K2tog* repeat to end of rnd.
Rnd L: Knit all sts.
Rnd M: *K2tog* repeat to end of rnd.
After Rnd M you should have 8 or fewer stitches depending on starting count. If you have more than 8, continue the sequence reducing the number of knit stitches before the K2tog by 1 each decrease round until you reach 8 or fewer stitches.
5. Finishing:
- Cut yarn leaving a 10" / 25 cm tail. Thread tail through tapestry needle and pull through remaining stitches. Draw tightly to close the top. Secure the tail on the inside with a few stitches and weave in ends.
- If using a folded brim, fold up and sew cast-on edge to inside by mattress stitch or with small whipstitches for a neat edge.
- Make a pompom if desired: wrap yarn around pompom maker or cardboard (size depends on desired pompom fullness), tie center securely, cut loops and trim to shape. Attach pompom by threading yarn tail through the top of the hat and knotting securely on the inside. Weave in tails.
6. Blocking: Lightly steam or wet block if desired to even stitches and shape brim. Lay flat to dry. Avoid heavy stretching when wet.
Worked Example: Adult Medium (22" / 56 cm, cast on 100 sts)
- CO 100 sts loosely on 16" circular with US 7 (4.5 mm).
- Join in round, place marker.
- Rib 2x2 for 2" / 5 cm.
- Switch to stockinette (knit every round) and work until hat measures 7.5" / 19 cm from cast-on.
- Begin crown decreases: follow crown sequence above (the sequence reduces evenly for any multiple of 8; 100 is multiple of 4 but not 8 — since recommended counts are multiples of 8, using 100 will still work but the decrease pattern will space slightly differently; for perfect symmetry you may cast on 96 or 104 instead). Continue decreases until 8 sts remain. Cut yarn and draw through, secure, weave in.
Variations
- Slouchy: add 1–2" / 2.5–5 cm to the body length before starting crown decreases.
- Earflap/Brim: add short-row shaping or pick up stitches to create ear coverage.
- Colorwork: convert body to stranded or slip-stitch color motifs; maintain multiple-of-8 cast-on or adjust decreases accordingly.
Care
Follow yarn label care. For most worsted wool/ blends: hand wash cold, reshape and lay flat to dry. Avoid tumble drying unless yarn label allows.
Troubleshooting & Tips
- If crown looks puckered too sharply, try decreasing every 3rd round instead of every other round for a gentler slope.
- Use a lifeline before you begin the crown if you are experimenting with different decrease sequences — it makes ripping back easier.
- For a neater top finish, on the last few rounds switch to smaller needles (one size down) for a couple of rounds before closing.
If you need help with any step of this pattern or want a customized size or stitch pattern, contact team@verde.uk or visit https://purljam.verde.uk. Follow updates and share projects with #purljam.