Classic Knitted Beanie
Quick, cozy, and endlessly tweakable. This super-detailed pattern gives you everything you need to knit a neat, well-fitting beanie in multiple sizes with worsted/aran weight yarn. Notes and options included for rib depths, slouch, pompom, and finishing. Website: https://purljam.verde.uk • Support: team@verde.uk • Socials: #purljam
Finished sizes (head circumference, finished height)
- Newborn: 13–14 in (33–36 cm) — height 5.5 in (14 cm)
- Baby: 16 in (41 cm) — height 6.5 in (16.5 cm)
- Child: 18 in (46 cm) — height 7.5 in (19 cm)
- Teen/Small Adult: 20 in (51 cm) — height 8 in (20.5 cm)
- Adult M: 22 in (56 cm) — height 8.5 in (21.5 cm)
- Adult L: 24 in (61 cm) — height 9 in (23 cm)
Yarn
Worsted/Aran weight yarn. Typical example: 100 g / 200 yd (183 m) per skein.
- Yarn weight: Worsted/Aran (medium #4)
- Imperial skein example: 200 yds / 100 g
- Metric skein example: 183 m / 100 g
- Approx yardage by size (estimate): Newborn 60 yds (55 m); Baby 100 yds (92 m); Child 120 yds (110 m); Teen/Small Adult 150 yds (137 m); Adult M 175 yds (160 m); Adult L 200 yds (183 m)
Needles & sizes
All sizes listed with US, UK (old) and Metric. Use circulars for the main body and DPNs or magic loop for the crown.
- Ribbing: US 6 / UK 4 / 4.0 mm
- Main body: US 7 / UK 7 / 4.5 mm (common)
- Optional larger for slouch: US 8 / UK 8 / 5.0 mm
- Circular needle: 16 in (40 cm) for small sizes, 16–18 in (40–45 cm) for larger sizes; or use magic loop (32 in/80 cm cable)
- DPNs: set of 5 matching sizes
Notions
- Stitch marker (slot marker for round start)
- Tapestry needle
- Scissors
- Pompom maker (optional)
Gauge
18 stitches and 24 rows = 4 in (10 cm) in stockinette in the round on US 7 / 4.5 mm. Adjust needle size if necessary to meet gauge.
Abbreviations (US terms)
- k = knit
- p = purl
- k2tog = knit two together (decrease)
- sts = stitches
- rnd = round
- CO = cast on
Cast-on counts (use rib multiple of 4 for 2x2 rib)
Below are recommended cast-on stitch counts for the sizes given. These are calculated from the gauge above and rounded to the nearest multiple of 4 to keep 2x2 rib tidy.
- Newborn: CO 60 sts (approx 13–14 in)
- Baby: CO 72 sts (approx 16 in)
- Child: CO 80 sts (approx 18 in)
- Teen/Small Adult: CO 88 sts (approx 20 in)
- Adult M: CO 96 sts (approx 22 in)
- Adult L: CO 104 sts (approx 24 in)
Pattern notes
Work the beanie in the round. Ribbed brim is 2x2 by default but you can use 1x1 for a firmer brim. The body is plain stockinette in the round (knit every round). Crown shaping uses evenly spaced k2tog decreases; if your stitch count does not divide evenly by the repeat in a given decrease round, space the extra knit stitches evenly across the round (you can place a few rounds with one extra knit between decreases to keep shaping balanced).
Be aware
If you prefer negative ease (snug fit) cast on 2–4 fewer stitches; for slouch cast on 4–6 more stitches and/or use larger needles.
Instructions
1. Cast on & join
CO the number of stitches for your chosen size using the long-tail cast-on or preferred stretchy cast-on. Join to work in the round being careful not to twist. Place marker for beginning of round.
2. Ribbing
Using smaller needles (US 6 / 4.0 mm): Work k2, p2 rib for:
- Newborn: 1.25 in (3 cm)
- Baby: 1.5 in (4 cm)
- Child: 1.75 in (4.5 cm)
- Teen: 2 in (5 cm)
- Adult M: 2 in (5 cm)
- Adult L: 2.25 in (6 cm)
3. Body
Switch to main needle (US 7 / 4.5 mm). Knit every round until the total height from cast-on edge to the top of the crown decreases equals:
- Newborn: 5.5 in (14 cm) total
- Baby: 6.5 in (16.5 cm)
- Child: 7.5 in (19 cm)
- Teen: 8 in (20.5 cm)
- Adult M: 8.5 in (21.5 cm)
- Adult L: 9 in (23 cm)
Measure from cast-on to the top; when you are about 1.5–2 in (4–5 cm) from the target crown point, begin crown decreases (see below).
4. Crown decreases — general method
The crown is shaped with paired decrease rounds separated by plain rounds to keep a neat look. The general approach: Round A: evenly decrease by doing repeated "K x, k2tog" across the round; Round B: knit; Round C: repeat with x decreased by 1 ("K x-1, k2tog"); Round D: knit; continue reducing x until you are left with about 8–12 stitches total, then break yarn and graft or draw through.
Note: If your number of stitches doesn’t divide evenly into the chosen repeat, simply space the extra knit stitches evenly between repeat patterns. Example calculations are shown below to help.
Example decrease sequences (worked examples)
These are ready-to-use for the cast-on counts listed above. Work each round to the end (use markers to divide the round mentally if helpful).
- For CO 60: Rnd A: *k4, k2tog* repeat across (10 repeats) — 60 → 50 sts. Rnd B: knit. Rnd C: *k3, k2tog* repeat across — 50 → 40 sts. Rnd D: knit. Rnd E: *k2, k2tog* repeat across — 40 → 30 sts. Rnd F: knit. Rnd G: *k1, k2tog* repeat across — 30 → 20 sts. Rnd H: knit. Rnd I: *k2tog* across — 20 → 10 sts. Break yarn and thread through remaining sts, pull closed, secure, and weave in tail.
- For CO 72: Rnd A: *k5, k2tog* repeat across (12 repeats) — 72 → 60 sts. Then follow the CO 60 sequence above from 60 sts onward.
- For CO 80: Rnd A: *k3, k2tog* repeat across (20 repeats) — 80 → 60 sts. Then follow CO 60 sequence.
- For CO 88: Rnd A: *k7, k2tog* repeat across (8 repeats; 8*(7+1)=64) — in this case 88/8=11 so you can instead do *k6,k2tog* 11 repeats: 11*(6+1)=77 -> 88→77 sts (uneven). Simpler: do *k6, k2tog* repeated 11 times to get 77, then do a quick round to bring to 60 by doing *k2, k2tog* repeat 17 times (17*3=51) and adjust final spacing. If unevenness bothers you, instead use the even-spacing instruction below to place 12 decreases across the round (see "Evenly spaced decreases").
- For CO 96: Rnd A: *k7, k2tog* repeat 12 times (12*(7+1)=96) — 96 → 84 sts. Rnd B: knit. Rnd C: *k6, k2tog* repeat 12 times — 84 → 72 sts. Then follow the CO 72 sequence to 60 and onward as shown above.
- For CO 104: Rnd A: *k8, k2tog* repeat 10 times (10*(8+1)=90) leaves extra; instead do *k7,k2tog* repeat 11 times (11*(7+1)=88) then adjust with an intermediate decrease round to reach 60. If you prefer, aim to reduce in steps of the same number of decreases per round (for example remove 12 sts per round) and space them evenly; see next section.
Evenly spaced decreases (recommended when counts don’t divide evenly)
To decrease N stitches across the round evenly, calculate: spacing = total_sts / N. Work a pattern of "knit (spacing-1), k2tog" and distribute the fractional remainder by adding 1 extra knit stitch every few repeats so the decreases are visually even. If math feels annoying, use stitch markers to divide your round into 8 or 12 equal sections and work one decrease (or the same decrease pattern) in each section. This keeps the crown tidy.
Finishing
- When you have 8–12 sts left, cut yarn leaving a 6–8 in (15–20 cm) tail. Thread tail through the remaining sts with tapestry needle, pull tight to close crown, secure with a knot if desired, and weave in ends neatly on the wrong side.
- Sew any small gaps closed with mattress stitch or neat whipstitch in the round. Block lightly if your yarn benefits.
- Add a pompom if desired, securing strongly through the crown and weaving in ends.
Alterations & tips
- Make it slouchy: swap main needles to US 8 (5.0 mm) and/or add 1–2 extra inches in body length before starting decreases.
- Firmer brim: use smaller needles or add extra ribbing rounds.
- Colorwork: add stripes in the body (keep rib in single color for a clean brim).
- Sizing tweak: measure the wearer’s head and calculate cast-on = (gauge sts per inch) x desired finished circumference, then round to the nearest multiple of 4 for 2x2 rib.
Troubleshooting
- Hat too loose: use smaller needles or subtract 4 sts from cast-on for a snugger fit.
- Crown puckers badly: decrease too quickly; work one extra plain round between decrease rounds or space decreases more evenly.
Notes & license
Enjoy your hat! This pattern was written for PurlJam (https://purljam.verde.uk). For help or questions email team@verde.uk. Share your makes with #purljam on social media. Pattern text provided for personal use; please credit PurlJam when sharing photos or modified patterns.