Classic Top-Down Worsted Sweater (Seamless Raglan)

An easy, wearable top-down seamless raglan pullover worked in worsted weight yarn. Written for five adult sizes with detailed stitch counts at key points so you can adjust length and ease. Techniques used: circular needles in the round, raglan increases, working sleeves in the round. Finished sweater has a clean crew neck, set-in style raglan yoke and simple stockinette body and sleeve with 1x1 rib at neck, cuffs and hem.

Sizes (finished chest circumference)

• S: 38 in / 96.5 cm
• M: 42 in / 106.5 cm
• L: 46 in / 116.5 cm
• XL: 50 in / 127 cm
• 2XL: 54 in / 137 cm

Materials

• Yarn: Worsted weight / Aran (category 4). Suggested: smooth, plied wool or wool blend for good stitch definition.
• Yarn amount (approx.): S: 900 yds / 823 m; M: 1000 yds / 914 m; L: 1100 yds / 1006 m; XL: 1250 yds / 1143 m; 2XL: 1400 yds / 1280 m.
• Approx skein sizing for planning: assume 100 g / 3.5 oz skeins with ~200 yds / 183 m per skein (adjust according to the yarn you choose).
• Needles: US 7 / UK 7 / 4.5 mm (for ribbing); US 8 / UK 6 / 5.0 mm (main body). Use circular needles long enough to accommodate your cast-on for the yoke (24"/60 cm or 32"/80 cm as needed) and double-pointed needles or small circular for magic loop for sleeves.
• Notions: 4 stitch markers (contrast), stitch holder or waste yarn, tapestry needle, optional removable markers or safety pins.

Gauge

18 sts x 24 rows = 4 in / 10 cm in stockinette on US 8 / 5.0 mm (blocked).

Abbreviations (US)

• CO: cast on
• k: knit
• p: purl
• kfb: knit into front and back (increase 1)
• M1L / M1R: left- or right-leaning make one increase
• k2tog: knit two together (right-leaning decrease)
• ssk: slip, slip, knit (left-leaning decrease)
• st(s): stitch(es)
• pm: place marker
• sm: slip marker
• rnd: round

Notes

• This is a positive-ease sweater (~2–4 in / 5–10 cm of ease depending on size). You can adjust the finished circumference by working more or fewer raglan increase rounds before splitting for body and sleeves.
• All raglan increases are worked on the RS and increase round adds 8 sts total (M1L and M1R on both sides of each raglan marker).
• When separating for sleeves you will place sleeve sts on holders and cast on 2 extra underarm stitches (or pick them up later) to avoid a hole.

Starting stitch counts and target stitch counts

We cast on a modest neck circumference and increase across the raglan yoke until the total stitch count reaches the numbers below (these counts are chosen from the gauge and the finished chest sizes above). All stitch counts shown are total stitches around the yoke after raglan increases; divide by 4 for stitches per section (front / sleeve / back / sleeve).

• Cast-on (CO) stitches: S:56, M:64, L:72, XL:80, 2XL:88
• Target total stitches after raglan increases (work until you reach or slightly exceed these totals before splitting): S:176, M:192, L:208, XL:232, 2XL:248
• Sts per section at separation (total / 4): S:44, M:48, L:52, XL:58, 2XL:62

Yoke (top-down raglan)

1. Using smaller needles (US 7 / 4.5 mm), CO the number of stitches for your size using a stretchy cast-on. Join being careful not to twist, and PM for beginning of round.

CO: S:56 / M:64 / L:72 / XL:80 / 2XL:88

2. Work 1x1 rib (k1,p1) for 1.5–2 in / 4–5 cm for neat neckband.

3. Switch to larger needles (US 8 / 5.0 mm). Set up raglan markers: divide your stitches into 4 equal sections and place markers between them so the sections read: front / marker / sleeve / marker / back / marker / sleeve / marker. If your CO number does not divide exactly, distribute evenly so markers are as symmetrical as possible.

4. Raglan increase round (RS): *k to 1 st before marker, M1R, k1, M1L, sm* Repeat for each marker. (You will increase 8 sts on this round.)

5. Work 1 round even (knit all sts in the round).

6. Repeat steps 4–5 (increase round, then 1 round even) until your total stitch count is equal to or just exceeds the target total for your size listed above. Keep track of how many increase rounds you work; that number determines yoke depth. Example: when working for Size S you will do 15 raglan increase rounds to reach 176 sts total (56 + 15*8 = 176).

Raglan increase counts for each size (for reference):

• S: start 56 → add 15 raglan increase rounds → total 176 (44 sts per section)
• M: start 64 → add 16 raglan increase rounds → total 192 (48 sts per section)
• L: start 72 → add 17 raglan increase rounds → total 208 (52 sts per section)
• XL: start 80 → add 19 raglan increase rounds → total 232 (58 sts per section)
• 2XL: start 88 → add 20 raglan increase rounds → total 248 (62 sts per section)

Separating body and sleeves

When your yoke reaches the desired depth (you may try on the yoke at this point for fit), separate for body and sleeves as follows:

1. Work to the first raglan marker. Slip the next section of sleeve sts (that section count) onto a holder. Remove marker.
2. CO 2 sts (or place 2 stitch holders and later pick up 2 sts) for the underarm; these prevent holes. Continue across next section (back), slip next sleeve section onto holder and CO 2 sts for the second underarm. Continue across front to complete the round. You will now have body sts only on the needle.

After separation the body stitch count = total stitches - 2*(sts per sleeve section) (this will equal the front+back stitches). Example S: body sts = 176 - 2*44 = 88 sts (44 front, 44 back).

Body

1. With body sts on needle and US 8 / 5.0 mm, join in the round and work stockinette (knit every rnd) until the body measures the desired length from underarm to hem. Typical lengths: S: 16 in / 41 cm; M: 17 in / 43 cm; L: 18 in / 46 cm; XL: 19 in / 48 cm; 2XL: 19–20 in / 48–50 cm. Change lengths to suit your torso.

2. When body reaches desired length, switch to smaller needles (US 7 / 4.5 mm) and work 1x1 rib (k1,p1) for 1.5–2 in / 4–5 cm. Bind off in rib pattern using a stretchy bind-off (e.g., Jeny's Surprisingly Stretchy Bind-Off or a long-tail tubular bind-off).

Sleeves

Work sleeves after body or simultaneously — both approaches are fine. We recommend finishing the body first, then sleeves.

1. Transfer the sleeve stitches from holders to your needle (dpns or magic-loop circular) and pick up the 2 underarm stitches you cast on earlier (or pick up 2 sts from the underarm gap) so there is no hole. Your starting sleeve stitch counts (after adding underarm sts):

• S: 46 sts
• M: 50 sts
• L: 54 sts
• XL: 60 sts
• 2XL: 64 sts

2. Join and work in the round in stockinette. Work until sleeve from underarm measures approximately the desired length to wrist (common sleeve lengths: S: 17 in / 43 cm; M: 17.5 in / 44.5 cm; L: 18 in / 46 cm; XL: 18.5 in / 47 cm; 2XL: 18.5–19 in / 47–48 cm), minus cuff length.

3. Cuff shaping: switch to smaller needles (US 7 / 4.5 mm) and begin decreases to reach cuff circumference (work decreases evenly across round until you reach the cuff stitch counts below). Recommended target cuff circumferences and stitch counts (use gauge 4.5 sts/inch):

• S: target cuff 7 in / 18 cm → 32 sts
• M: 7.5 in / 19 cm → 34 sts
• L: 8 in / 20.5 cm → 36 sts
• XL: 8.5 in / 21.5 cm → 38 sts
• 2XL: 9 in / 23 cm → 40 sts

Decrease method: decrease evenly by working paired decreases around the round until you have reached the target stitch count (for example, to remove 14 sts from 46 down to 32, remove 14 sts evenly by working k2tog and ssk evenly spaced on decrease rounds). A simple practical approach: on a decrease round, work "kN, k2tog" across the round; if the decreases are not perfectly even, work a short plain round then repeat decreases until target is reached. The goal is an even taper; exact interval calculation depends on your stitch count — distribute decreases as evenly as possible.

4. When you have reached the target cuff stitch count, work 1x1 rib for 1.5–2 in / 4–5 cm. Bind off in rib with a stretchy bind-off.

Finishing

1. Weave in all ends with a tapestry needle.
2. Block gently to measurements recommended: lightly steam or wet block to final shape. Lay flat to dry. Blocking evens stitches and softens fabric.
3. Sew any small holes at the underarms if necessary with duplicate stitch or mattress stitch.

Customization tips

• Want less ease? Stop raglan increases earlier — the pattern gives total stitch counts, so you can aim for a smaller total to reduce ease. For more positive ease, work a couple more increase pairs.
• Change neckline: pick up fewer neck stitches at CO for a tighter neck, or work deeper ribbing.
• Add yoke texture: instead of plain stockinette on the yoke, add simple cables or a textured stitch panel between the raglan markers. Remember that counts must still work evenly at raglan seams.

Troubleshooting

• Gaps at underarm when separating: pick up 2 underarm stitches or use kfb on either side of the gap to close it.
• Yoke too shallow/deep: try on as you go — raglan yokes are easy to adjust. If too shallow, continue increase rounds; if too deep, separate earlier.

Sizing quick reference

• CO: S56 M64 L72 XL80 2XL88
• Target total sts (split): S176 (44/44/44/44) M192 (48/48/48/48) L208 (52/52/52/52) XL232 (58/58/58/58) 2XL248 (62/62/62/62)
• Starting sleeve sts (after underarm pick-up): S46 M50 L54 XL60 2XL64
• Cuff target sts: S32 M34 L36 XL38 2XL40

Needle sizing summary (all measurements included)

• Ribbing needles: US 7 / UK 7 / 4.5 mm
• Main needles: US 8 / UK 6 / 5.0 mm

Yarn size summary

• Worsted weight (category 4). Sample yarn packaging equivalence: 100 g / 3.5 oz skein ≈ 200 yds / 183 m (use actual yarn yardage to calculate total skeins required from yardage list above).

Support & Licence

If you have questions about the pattern or need help with sizing, reach out: support email team@verde.uk. Pattern hosted at https://purljam.verde.uk. Share finished projects with #purljam on socials. This pattern is provided for personal use; do not reproduce for resale without permission.

Enjoy knitting!

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