Butterfly Shawl for a 6-Year-Old (Top-down Crochet Triangle)

Overview

An airy, playful triangular shawl worked top-down with built-in "butterfly" decorative clusters along the center spine and near the edges. Finished size and the number of butterfly clusters are adjustable; this version fits a typical 6-year-old and is written to be simple to lengthen or shorten.

Finished Measurements

• Wingspan (tip to tip): approx 30 in / 76 cm
• Center depth (from neck to point): approx 12 in / 30 cm

Materials

• Yarn: DK / Light (Weight 3). Approx 300–350 yards (275–300 m) total. Typical skein example: 100 g = ~225 m (246 yd) — you will likely buy 1–2 skeins depending on yarn yardage per skein and whether you add a long fringe. (Imperial and Metric included above.)
• Crochet hook (recommended): US G-6 (4.0 mm) OR US H-8 (5.0 mm) depending on the fabric you want. Approximate UK (old) equivalents: UK 8 (4.0 mm) and UK 6 (5.0 mm). Metric: 4.0 mm and 5.0 mm. Use the larger hook for a more drapey, open shawl; smaller for a denser fabric.
• Tapestry needle for weaving ends
• Stitch markers (1 for center marker optional)
• Blocking mats and pins (optional but recommended)

Gauge

Gauge is approximate and not critical for this shawl. Approx gauge with 5.0 mm hook: 12 dc x 6 rows = 4 in / 10 cm. If your gauge is very different, adjust hook size to get desired fabric and yardage.

Abbreviations (US terms)

• ch = chain
• sl st = slip stitch
• sc = single crochet
• dc = double crochet
• sp = space
• st(s) = stitch(es)

Notes

• This triangular shawl is worked from the neck down (top down), increasing at each edge and at the center on every row so it opens into a triangle.
• The written pattern gives the basic row structure and how to work the butterfly clusters on set rows. The shawl is easy to lengthen — simply continue the repeat rows until desired depth is reached.
• Markers: place a removable marker in the center ch-2 space after the first row to help identify the center point each row.

Special Stitch: Butterfly Cluster (definition used in this pattern)

This is a decorative cluster that produces a winged look. Work into one stitch or into the center ch-2 space as instructed.

1. Work 5 dc into the indicated stitch or space.
2. Ch 3, then sl st into the 3rd dc of the 5-dc group (pulling the center slightly forward) to create the little body and gather the wings.

Begin

Make a small ring and establish the center.

1. Ch 4, sl st to first ch to form a ring.
2. Row 1 (foundation row): Ch 3 (counts as first dc), work 2 dc into ring, ch 2, work 3 dc into ring. (You have two groups of 3 dc separated by a ch-2 center space; this is your starting point.) Place a marker in the ch-2 space to mark the center (move marker each row).

Row Template (every right-side row)

Work each row across both sides of the center. ALWAYS work the first 3 dc cluster into the first dc of the previous row (these form the left edge), and the last 3 dc cluster into the last dc of the previous row (right edge). Increase at the center by working dc, ch2, dc into the center ch-2 space.

General row (plain, not butterfly row):

1. Ch 3 (counts as first dc). Work 2 dc in the same stitch as the ch-3 (so the first 3-dc cluster is formed).
2. Dc in each dc across the left side until you reach the center ch-2 space.
3. In center ch-2 space work: dc, ch 2, dc.
4. Dc in each dc across the right side until you reach the last stitch; work 3 dc in the top of the turning ch-3 at the end of the row (this forms the right edge cluster).

Butterfly Rows (decorative)

Work butterfly rows every 4th row (for example rows 4, 8, 12…) or as desired. On a butterfly row you will still increase at center and edges, but you will replace one or more sequences of dcs on each side with butterfly clusters. The pattern below places a butterfly near the edges (inside the edge clusters) and one in the center ch-2 space on butterfly rows.

Butterfly Row (example):

1. Ch 3 (counts as first dc), work 2 dc in same st (edge cluster).
2. Dc across until there are 3 dc left before the center ch-2 space (this positioning gives room for a butterfly close to the center). Instead of the next 3 plain dc, work a Butterfly Cluster in the dc indicated (see special stitch above). Skip the number of sts you normally would so that the row stitch count matches — see notes on positioning below.
3. In the center ch-2 space: work a Butterfly Cluster (5 dc into the ch-2 space, ch 3, sl st into 3rd dc of that 5-dc group). Then proceed with dc, ch2, dc (the standard center increase) as directed for the row. Note: if your Butterfly Cluster is worked directly into the ch-2 space, treat it as the center decorative motif; you will still do the ch-2 and adjacent dcs as the pattern states so the overall symmetry is preserved.
4. Mirror the left side: work a Butterfly Cluster positioned symmetrically about the center, then finish with the right edge cluster of 3 dc in the last stitch.

Important positioning note: The butterfly cluster takes the place of multiple plain dcs visually. To keep the triangular increase geometry true you are not removing increases; instead, substitute a run of plain dc with a butterfly cluster + small adjustments (such as skipping 1 dc or replacing a pair of dc with butterfly cluster). If you are new to modifying stitches, work the first butterfly row exactly as written below and check counts; you can always remove or add an extra dc before the butterfly cluster to maintain row stitch numbers.

Worked Example: First 8 Rows (plain + one butterfly row)

1. Row 1: (Establish) Ch 3, 2 dc in ring, ch 2, 3 dc in ring. (6 dc total + center ch2).
2. Row 2: Ch 3, work 2 dc in first dc, dc across to 1 st before center, dc, ch 2, dc in center, dc across, work 3 dc in last dc. (Increases by 4 dc total.)
3. Row 3: Repeat Row Template.
4. Row 4 (Butterfly Row): Ch 3, 2 dc in same st. Dc in each dc across left side until you are 4 dc away from center ch-2. Work a Butterfly Cluster into the next dc (see special stitch). Dc in the remaining stitches before center so that the center ch-2 is reached in the usual spot. In center ch-2 space work Butterfly Cluster (5 dc in ch-2 sp, ch 3, sl st into 3rd dc of that 5-dc). Continue mirroring on the right side and end with 3 dc in the last st.

After Row 4 continue Row Template Rows 5–7 plain. Repeat Row 8 as another butterfly row, and so on. As you build rows, you will see butterflies forming along the center and near the edges. The cluster placement can be adjusted freely (for example place butterflies every 6th stitch across the row if you prefer more butterflies).

Repeat & Adjust

Continue repeating: three plain increase rows, one butterfly row (or choose your own rhythm). Stop when the shawl reaches the desired depth. For a 6-year-old the sample stopping point is around 12–14 in / 30–35 cm from neck to tip. To make a wrap-style shawl for extra coverage, continue until 14–16 in / 36–40 cm.

Edge Finishing Options

• Simple single crochet border: With right side facing, join yarn at one top corner and work 1 round of sc evenly around, working 3 sc into each triangle point (center and corners). Fasten off and weave ends.
• Lacy picot border: Work sc around, working *sc, ch 3, sl st into first ch to make picot, skip 1* repeat for a delicate edge.
• Fringe (optional): Cut strands of yarn 6–8 in / 15–20 cm long. Fold in half and use a crochet hook to attach 5–10 mm spaced along the base of the top of the triangle. Trim evenly.

Finishing & Blocking

1. Weave in ends with a tapestry needle.
2. Gently wet-block the shawl to open the lace and set the shape. Pin the top edge straight and the point downward to open the triangle; pin any butterfly wings as you prefer for a 3D effect. Allow to dry completely.

Sizing & Adjustments

• To increase wingspan proportionally: keep working rows until desired width; each extra row adds width at the top edges as well as depth.
• To add more butterflies: change the frequency of butterfly rows to every 3rd row or place additional clusters along each row.

Yarn & Hook Reference (clear listing)

• Yarn weight: DK / Light (3). Required yardage: approx 300–350 yards (275–300 m) total. Typical skein example: 100 g = ~225 m (246 yd).
• Hook sizes listed in US, UK (old), Metric: US G-6 = UK 8 = 4.0 mm; US H-8 = UK 6 = 5.0 mm. Use 4.0 mm for denser fabric, 5.0 mm for drapier fabric. (These are the recommended sizes for DK; adjust to match gauge or desired drape.)

Troubleshooting & Tips

• If your triangle is not lying flat: check that you are increasing in the center (dc, ch-2, dc) each row and making the 3-dc clusters into the end stitches as written. Missing center increases will cause flaring or cupping.
• Butterfly clusters should be worked into single sts or the ch-2 center space as directed; if they look too big or tight, try the larger or smaller hook accordingly.
• Keep your stitch count steady each row: each row increases by 4 dc total (two edge increases and two from center). If you alter stitch substitutions for butterfly clusters, keep track of counts and add or remove small plain dc to maintain balance.

Short Version Cheat-Sheet

1. Make ring: ch4, sl st to join.
2. Row 1: ch3, 2 dc in ring, ch2, 3 dc in ring. Mark center ch2.
3. Row X: ch3, 2 dc in same st; dc to center; dc, ch2, dc in center; dc across; 3 dc in final st.
4. Every 4th row: replace selected dc groups with Butterfly Clusters (5 dc, ch3, sl st into 3rd dc). Place one butterfly in center ch-2 and one near each side.
5. Repeat until desired depth. Add edging and optional fringe. Block and wear.

Variations

• Make a smaller shawlette by stopping after 8–10 rows for a light neck cover.
• Make a larger child’s wrap by doubling the yarn (held together) for a chunkier fabric or by continuing rows for added depth.

Credits & Help

Pattern created for PurlJam by Verde. For support 이메일: team@verde.uk. Website: https://purljam.verde.uk. Share your projects with our community: #purljam

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