Crochet Optimus Prime Amigurumi (US terms)

Designer: PurlJam (<a href=\"https://purljam.verde.uk\">https://purljam.verde.uk</a>) • Support: <a href=\"mailto:team@verde.uk\">team@verde.uk</a> • Social: #purljam

Finished size

Approximately 7.5" / 19 cm tall when worked with recommended hook and yarn (pattern is easily scalable by changing hook/yarn).

Skill level

Advanced-beginner to intermediate — you should know continuous (spiral) rounds, color changes, surface slip-stitch, sewing pieces together and basic embroidery.

Materials

• Yarn (dk/light worsted & worsted recommended): multiple colors — see quantities below. Example yarn: acrylic DK / worsted weight.
• Hook sizes (approx equivalents): 2.5 mm (US C/2, UK 12), 3.0 mm (US D/3, UK 11), 3.5 mm (US E/4, UK 9). Use smaller than recommended for your yarn to achieve tight amigurumi fabric. For this pattern the main hook used is 3.0 mm; use 2.5 mm for smaller features.
• Safety eyes 8 mm (use 6 mm for smaller scale) or embroider eyes when making small kids-safe toy.
• Fiberfill stuffing, stitch marker, tapestry needle, locking stitch markers, small amount of craft wire for poseable antennae (optional), thin felt for windshield (optional), black embroidery thread.

Yarn quantities (estimate)

• Red: 40 g (1.4 oz) ~ 110 m / 120 yds
• Royal Blue: 30 g (1.1 oz) ~ 90 m / 98 yds
• Light Gray / Silver: 20 g (0.7 oz) ~ 55 m / 60 yds
• Dark Gray / Charcoal: 10 g (0.35 oz) ~ 30 m / 33 yds
• Black: 10 g (0.35 oz) ~ 30 m / 33 yds
• Yellow (small highlights): <5 g (0.1-0.2 oz) ~ 10 m / 11 yds
• White (small highlights): <5 g

Gauge

Not critical for amigurumi, but aim for about 16 sc x 18 rows = 10 cm / 4" using 3.0 mm hook. Tighter fabric reduces stuffing showing.

Abbreviations (US)

• ch = chain
• sc = single crochet
• inc = 2 sc in same stitch
• dec = sc2tog (single crochet decrease over 2 stitches)
• sl st = slip stitch
• MR = magic ring
• st(s) = stitch(es)

Notes

• Pattern is written in continuous rounds unless stated. Use a stitch marker and move it each round.
• Count your stitches after each round to ensure correct shaping.
• Color changes: change color on the last yarn over of the last stitch in the old color so the new color is picked up at the beginning of the next stitch.
• When stuffing, stuff firmly but not overstuffed for seams to close neatly.

Core construction overview

Make pieces: Head (faceplate + helmet + windshield), Body/Chest, Arms (upper/lower), Hands, Legs/Feet, Shoulder pads, Backpack/smokestacks, Antennae, Blaster rifle. Sew pieces to body as indicated, then embroider details and add final surface slip stitch lines for panels.

HEAD (faceplate + helmet)

Work faceplate first in Light Gray / Silver.

Faceplate (Light Gray): use 3.0 mm hook

1. MR, 6 sc (6)
2. inc around (12)
3. (sc1, inc) repeat around (18)
4. (sc2, inc) repeat around (24)
5. sc around 3 rounds (24 x 3 = 24 each round)
6. Switch to Dark Gray for mouth slit shaping: sc around 2 rounds
7. Next round: (sc3, dec) repeat (20)
8. sc around 1 round
9. Start decreasing: (sc2, dec) repeat (15)
10. Do not stuff heavily yet — just a little to shape faceplate so it can be pinned to helmet later. Fasten off leaving long tail for sewing.

Helmet (Red): make helmet shell that sits over the top and sides of the faceplate. Use 3.0 mm.

1. MR, 6 sc (6)
2. inc around (12)
3. (sc1, inc) repeat (18)
4. (sc2, inc) repeat (24)
5. (sc3, inc) repeat (30)
6. sc around 2 rounds (30 x 2)
7. (sc4, inc) repeat (36)
8. sc around 6 rounds — this builds helmet height (36 x 6)
9. Now begin forming the helmet brow: sc around 3 rounds in red but on the front 12 stitches change to blue for the windshield area: when you reach front 12 sts, work them in Royal Blue for 3 rounds (this creates built-in visor area). Continue remainder in red. Count so the blue panel is centered.
10. After visor rounds, continue 2 rounds all red to shape back of head.
11. Fold helmet front edge slightly and sc through both layers for a firm brow: pick up 12 stitches across the blue front and sc through both layers to create a neat edge. Fasten off, leaving tail for sewing to faceplate.

Windshield (Royal Blue) - optional: either embroider/window with felt. For crocheted windshield: use 2.5 mm hook.

1. Ch 7, sc in 2nd ch from hook and across (6)
2. Ch1 turn, sc across 5 more rows to make a rectangle suited to the helmet visor; attach into blue panel by whipstitch or surface slip stitch.

Eye lights: embroider small white dots onto the blue visor or use tiny yellow for optics.

BODY / CHEST

Chest is blocky; use Red (upper) and Blue (lower) with Light Gray panels.

Torso (worked top-down): use 3.0 mm

1. MR, 6 sc (6)
2. inc around (12)
3. (sc1, inc) repeat (18)
4. (sc2, inc) repeat (24)
5. (sc3, inc) repeat (30)
6. sc around 3 rounds (30)
7. Switch to Blue for lower torso: sc around 4 rounds (30)
8. Switch to Gray and make two short strips (front grill panels). For grill: ch 6, sc back across, make 2 identical strips and sew to front chest, leaving space between them for Autobot emblem later.
9. Decrease round to shape waist: (sc3, dec) repeat (24)
10. sc around 2 rounds (24), stuff lightly before closing further.
11. Optional internal neck post: leave a longer tail, sew into head to join firmly or insert a length of tightly rolled scrap yarn as a neck post.
12. Close with decreases to desired length and finish. Fasten off and leave tail for sewing to head (if not joined while working).

ARMS

Make 2, work from shoulder down. Upper arm is Red, lower arm Gray/Blue.

Upper Arm (Red), make 2

1. MR, 6 sc (6)
2. inc around (12)
3. sc around 6 rounds (12)
4. Attach (or change to) Gray for forearm and sc around 6 rounds (12)
5. For elbow shaping: (sc3, dec) repeat (9)
6. sc around 4 rounds (9)
7. Hand join: decrease to 6 sts with 3 dec evenly placed, stuff lightly, fasten off leaving tail for sewing.

Hands (Dark Gray / Black):

1. Using 2.5 mm hook, MR, 6 sc (6)
2. sc around 2 rounds (6)
3. Create thumb on side by working 3 sc onto a small chain tab; sew into place.
4. Fasten off and sew hand to lower arm.

LEGS & FEET

Make 2 legs. Use Blue for thighs, Dark Gray for feet.

Leg (worked top-down):

1. MR, 6 sc (6)
2. inc around (12)
3. sc around 6 rounds (12) — thigh in blue
4. Switch to dark gray for feet: sc around 4 rounds (12)
5. Shape foot sole by working flat half rounds: next round mark front 6 stitches — work 6 sc, then turn and work across these 6 sts as rows for 6 rows to create a flatter sole. Then rejoin around the leg and work decreases around ankle area to 10 sts.
6. Stuff firmly and close top of leg leaving tail for sewing to body.

Alternate: Make a single boot/foot piece by increasing sole width if desired for stability.

SHOULDER PADS & SMOKESTACKS

Shoulder pads are discs that sit on top of the shoulders in Red with Gray centers.

Shoulder pad:

1. MR, 6 sc (6)
2. inc around (12)
3. (sc1, inc) repeat (18)
4. sc around 2 rounds (18)
5. work one round of sl st to anchor edge and fasten off leaving tail to sew onto arm/socket.

Smokestacks (make 2):

1. Use Dark Gray, 2.5-3.0 mm hook. Ch 6, join to form small ring, sc around tube for 10 rows, stuff lightly, close top. Sew to backpack/shoulder area.

BACKPACK

Small rectangular box in Blue with two smokestacks sewn to back. Make a small rectangle by ch 10 and working short rows to create a box; fold and seam. Sew to back of torso.

ANTENNAE

Optionally make two short antennae from craft wire wrapped with red yarn or black yarn; insert into helmet sides and secure with glue or whipstitch.

BLASTER RIFLE (optional)

Make a slim rifle from black/dark gray: ch 15, sc back across for 2 rows, add a small muzzle by increasing at tip; or crochet a small cylinder 8-10 sc round x 6 rows. Attach to a small handle and glue or sew together.

ASSEMBLY

1. Sew head to torso: align helmet and faceplate — stitch faceplate to helmet at brow and sides so the seam is hidden by the helmet rim. Insert a few stitches from faceplate into top chest to secure neck.
2. Attach arms to upper side seams of torso: sew through both shoulder pad and body so arms are sturdy. If you want poseable arms, insert short craft wire into arm center before closing and twist ends into torso.
3. Sew legs to bottom of torso: position evenly apart. Reinforce with an extra thread pass so legs support the weight.
4. Attach shoulder pads on top of the armsock and sew smokestacks onto the backpack piece then sew backpack to rear of torso.
5. Sew windshield (blue) onto helmet center and embroider or stitch the small white eye highlights.
6. Add small yellow square for chest lights: embroider or crochet tiny 3-stitch square and sew on.
7. Autobot emblem: embroider a small red/white emblem or use a printed sticker/felt cut-out and glue on chest panel.

DETAILS & SURFACE WORK

• Use surface slip stitch in dark gray to draw panel lines, vents and grille lines on the chest and helmet.
• Use embroidery to add mouthplate details — a horizontal line and small vertical slits for the mouth grille.
• Use thin black yarn to add panel outlines and edges around feet and hands.

SAFETY & FINISHING

• If making for a child under 3, avoid safety eyes — embroider eyes instead. Secure all small parts and sew on accessories firmly.
• Weave in all ends, and add a drop of craft glue to knot tails for extra security if desired.
• Hand-wash cold and reshape; air dry.

Tips & Modifications

• Scale up by using worsted yarn & 3.5 mm or 4.0 mm hook for a larger doll; quantities will increase.
• For poseable features, insert thin craft wire into limbs and antennae; protect fiberfill from wire ends by wrapping wire with tape or yarn.
• To make vehicle mode details (truck grill), add rectangular panels and small black bumpers or felt shapes.

Stitch count reference (quick)

Head widest round ~36 sts, Torso widest round ~36 sts, Arms ~12 sts, Legs ~12 sts.

Copyright & Use

Original pattern by PurlJam. For personal use, gifts and charity sales. Not for mass reproduction without permission. For support email <a href=\"mailto:team@verde.uk\">team@verde.uk</a>.

Created by purlJam with the help of magic AI dust. Shop Verde for patterns and yarn.

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