Crochet Twisted Horn - 5 cm

Small amigurumi-ready twisted horn, finished length 5 cm. Worked in continuous rounds as a tapered cone, then twisted and secured to hold the spiral. Ideal for unicorns, dragons, hats or tiny toy embellishments.

Skills & Techniques

Magic ring
Single crochet in continuous rounds (US terminology)
Back-loop-only (BLO) for texture (optional)
Simple decreases (sc2tog)
Light shaping and securing a twist

Materials

Yarn: Fingering / 4-ply recommended. Sample yarn: 50 g (1.76 oz) = 200 m (218 yd). You will only need a small scrap: about 2–4 g (≈ 8–15 yd / 7–14 m) per horn.
Hook (choose for tight amigurumi fabric): US D/3 (UK 11) 3.25 mm recommended. Alternatives: US B/1 (UK 13) 2.25 mm for firmer, denser fabric; US E/4 (UK 10) 3.5 mm for a slightly looser fabric.
Stuffing: small amount of polyester stuffing or fiberfill (a tiny pinch)
Yarn needle for sewing and finishing
Scissors
Optional: fabric stiffener or diluted PVA for a firmer horn; small amount of sewing thread or clear-drying glue to lock twist if desired.

Hook Sizes (listed US / UK (old) / Metric)

US B/1 / UK 13 / 2.25 mm
US C/2 / UK 12 / 2.75 mm
US D/3 / UK 11 / 3.25 mm (recommended)
US E/4 / UK 10 / 3.5 mm

Abbreviations (US terms) & UK equivalents

sc = single crochet (UK: dc)
inc = increase = 2 sc in same stitch (UK: 2 dc in same stitch)
dec or sc2tog = single crochet decrease (US) (UK: dc2tog)
BLO = back loop only
MR = magic ring (magic circle)
st(s) = stitch(es)

Gauge & Finished Size

Gauge is not critical for this small motif, but for reference: with fingering yarn & 3.25 mm hook, 18 sc in a round & 10 rounds (approx) produces a horn about 5 cm long after finishing and light shaping. If your fabric is looser/tighter, change hook size or add/remove even rounds to reach 5 cm.

Finished Dimensions

Length (point to base): 5 cm / 1.97 in
Base circumference (sample): ~18 sc (circumference ~2.8 cm; diameter ~0.9 cm)

Pattern Notes

Work in continuous rounds; do not join unless you prefer a seam. Mark start of round with a stitch marker.
To encourage a spiral/twist: either (A) work several rounds in BLO to create ridges that steam/shape nicely, then twist physically and secure, or (B) after completing cone, manually twist and secure with a few small stitches along a spiral line.
Stuff very lightly — too much stuffing will prevent a neat twist.

Pattern (US terms)

Sample uses 3.25 mm hook and fingering yarn; finished horn = 5 cm.

R1: MR, 6 sc into ring. Pull tight. (6)
R2: 6 inc (inc in each st). (12)
R3: (inc, sc) x6. (18)
R4-R11: sc in each st around (18) — 8 rounds even. Check length frequently; with specified gauge R11 should put you close to 5 cm total length. If your horn is shorter than 5 cm, add more even rounds; if longer, remove one even round.
R12: (sc2, dec) x4. (12)
R13: (sc1, dec) x4. (8)
R14: (dec) x4. (4)
Finish: Break yarn leaving a 15–20 cm tail. Thread tail through remaining 4 sts with yarn needle and pull tight to close. Fasten off and weave in end securely inside.

Stuffing & Shaping

Lightly stuff through the base before you complete the final decreases. You only need a small pinch to give body — the horn should remain flexible enough to twist.
After closing, hold the base and twist the horn gently clockwise (or CCW as preferred) until you see a spiral ridge form. If you worked some rounds in BLO, the ridges will accentuate the spiral.
Secure the twist: using a small length of matching yarn or clear thread, run a few small whipstitches on the underside (base side) along the spiral seam to hold the twist in place. Keep stitches small and hidden inside or under the horn. Optionally apply a tiny dab of clear craft glue where stitches are to lock them; let dry.

Optional: Steam Block or Stiffen

To make the twist crisper, very lightly steam the horn from a distance while holding the twist, then allow to cool while still twisted (test yarn compatibility first). Or brush a tiny amount of diluted PVA/starch inside the base and twist until dry.

Attachment

Sew the base to your project (head, hat, etc.) with small whipstitches around the base. For secure attachment, sew through the base rounds and into the project fabric/skin several times.
If mounting on a plastic base or horn mounting, you can insert a toothpick or small wire into the base before sewing for extra stability — anchor securely so nothing pokes out.

Variations & Tips

For a tapered, tighter spiral, use a smaller hook (B/1 2.25 mm) and/or work fewer even rounds before decreases.
For a chunkier horn, use thicker yarn (DK) and larger hook; adjust round counts to match desired length.
To make a segmented spiral (striped spiral), change color every 2 rounds while working even rounds — the color changes will create a candy-cane effect when twisted.

Troubleshooting

Horn too short/long: adjust number of even rounds (R4-R11).
Twist won’t hold: try lighter stuffing and secure with small stitches or a dab of glue; consider steam setting or light stiffener.
Too floppy: use smaller hook or add a small internal support (toothpick/wire) anchored at base.

Notes

This pattern is intentionally compact and worked for a precise 5 cm finished length using the listed gauge. Always check your length as you go rather than relying only on round counts — yarn weight, tension and hook choice affect final measurement.

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