Vee Neck Crochet Slipover

Modern, slightly boxy sleeveless slipover with a gentle V‑neck. Worked flat in double crochet (US) for a clean drape and quick progress. Clear shaping for the V and easy finishing notes included. Designed for worsted/aran weight yarn; choose a fiber suitable for the finished drape you want.

Sizes (finished bust)

XS (S, M, L, XL, 2X, 3X) = 34 (38, 42, 46, 50, 54, 58) in / 86 (97, 107, 117, 127, 137, 147) cm

Finished length (nape to hem)

XS 21" / 53.5 cm, S 22" / 56 cm, M 23" / 58.5 cm, L 24" / 61 cm, XL 25" / 63.5 cm, 2X 25" / 63.5 cm, 3X 25.5" / 64.5 cm (adjustable)

Yarn

• Worsted/Aran weight yarn (US #4). Suggested yardages (approx): XS 800 yds / 732 m; S 900 yds / 823 m; M 1000 yds / 915 m; L 1100 yds / 1006 m; XL 1250 yds / 1143 m; 2X 1400 yds / 1280 m; 3X 1550 yds / 1417 m. Use a smooth, non‑split yarn for best stitch definition.

Hooks & Needles

Include US, UK Old and Metric Needle Size

• Main crochet hook: US H/8 — UK (old) 6 — Metric 5.0 mm
• Optional for drapier fabric: US I/9 — UK (old) 5 — Metric 5.5 mm
• Tapestry/darning needle: blunt large‑eye needle for seaming and weaving in ends

Gauge

10 dc x 8 rows = 4" / 10 cm measured over pattern in blocked fabric with 5.0 mm hook. Gauge is IMPORTANT for fit — change hook size to match.

Notions

• Stitch markers
• Tape measure
• Sewing needle and matching thread for optional reinforced shoulder seams
• Blocking tools

Abbreviations (US terms)

• ch = chain
• sc = single crochet
• hdc = half double crochet
• dc = double crochet
• st(s) = stitch(es)
• sk = skip
• rep = repeat
• RS = right side, WS = wrong side
• tog = together
• yo = yarn over

Notes

• Pattern is worked flat in rows. Back and front panels are made separately then joined at shoulders and sides. Armholes are left unworked to shape naturally; optional ribbed edging included.
• When instruction gives a list of stitch counts for sizes, the order corresponds to XS, S, M, L, XL, 2X, 3X.
• Chain counts are rounded to an even stitch multiple to keep the pattern edges neat.

Panel math (how the pattern was calculated)

Stitch density used: ~2.5 dc per inch (10 dc = 4"). For each size the half‑bust width (inches) x 2.5 = starting dc count (rounded to nearest even number). Adjust chain foundation if you prefer a different ease.

Starting chain (back panel width)

Ch 44 (48, 54, 58, 64, 68, 74) + 3 turning ch (counts as first dc). These chains create the back panel width = half the bust.

Back

1. Row 1 (RS): Dc in 4th ch from hook (counts as first dc) and in each ch across. Turn. (44 (48, 54, 58, 64, 68, 74) dc)
2. Row 2–until armhole: Rep Row 1 until back measures 7.5 (8, 8.5, 9, 9.5, 9.5, 10) in / 19 (20.5, 21.5, 23, 24, 24, 25.5) cm from foundation (or to a point 3–4" / 7.5–10 cm less than desired full length, allowing for shoulder shaping). Keep same stitch count.
3. Shoulder shaping & neck (simple strap method): At armhole, divide for two shoulder straps and back neck. On the next RS row work across the first 12 (13, 15, 16, 18, 19, 20) sts, turn leaving center sts unworked, work the remnant 12 (13, 15, 16, 18, 19, 20) sts later to form the other shoulder. Work each shoulder separately for 4 rows (or until shoulder thickness equals 1" / 2.5 cm), then fasten off. This creates a small back neck opening matching the front V depth.
4. Alternative (if you prefer no shaping): Continue straight to full length and seam shoulders later, leaving 3–4" / 7.5–10 cm unseamed at center for the nape opening.

Front (V‑neck shaping)

Work same starting chain as back: ch 44 (48, 54, 58, 64, 68, 74) + 3.

1. Row 1 (RS): Dc in 4th ch from hook and across. Turn.
2. Row 2–until armhole depth: Rep Row 1 until front reaches same length as back to armhole (measure to same point).
3. Begin V‑neck shaping (RS rows shown): You will create two halves working from the bottom up and shaping the center V by decreasing 1 dc at the neck edge every RS row until desired V depth is reached, then continue each shoulder separately to match back strap width.
   • Set-up row (RS): Work across until you reach center two sts. Place a marker at center. (If your stitch count is even, there are 2 center sts.)
   • Next row (RS): Dc to 2 sts before center, dc2tog (dc two together across the 2 center sts) to make the V point, dc to end. Turn. You have decreased 1 st for the V. Mark the V center on RS every row if helpful.
   • Repeat RS rows: On every RS row, work dc to 2 sts before center, dc2tog across center, continue to end. Keep WS rows as dc across. Continue until the front V reaches desired depth — typically 7 (8, 8.5, 9, 9.5, 9.5, 10) in / 18 (20, 21.5, 23, 24, 24, 25.5) cm from shoulder line (measured from where your shoulder seam will sit) or until you have decreased about 8–12 sts total depending on size and look. Stop shaping when there are enough sts left on each shoulder to match the back shoulder widths used above (12 (13, 15, 16, 18, 19, 20) sts).
4. After V depth is reached: Work each shoulder separately. Join yarn at shoulder edge, dc across shoulder sts for 4 rows (or until shoulder thickness matches back). Fasten off.

Edgings (neck, armholes, hem)

Light edging tidies the slipover and stabilizes the V.

1. Neck: With RS facing and 5.0 mm hook, join yarn at center of V on RS, ch1, work 1 rnd sc evenly up one side of the V to shoulder edge, across shoulder seam area (use sc around the back neck opening), and down the other V side. Work 1–2 rnds sc total for a neat finish. For a softer roll, work 1 rnd hdc instead.
2. Armholes: Join yarn at armhole edge, ch1, work sc evenly around each armhole for 2 rnds. If you prefer a ribbed look, work alternating sc and hdc in same rnd.
3. Hem: Optionally work 1 rnd hdc or 2 rnds sc along hem, or leave raw and block.

Seaming

Use mattress stitch or slip‑stitch seam for a tidy join.

1. Shoulders: With RS together, align front and back shoulder halves and mattress‑stitch through edge loops, leaving the neck opening as planned (match the back strap widths used earlier).
2. Sides: With RS together, seam from hem up to underarm leaving the armhole depth unseamed. Optionally leave 2–4" / 5–10 cm open at hem for side vents.

Finishing

• Weave in ends. Block gently to measurements — lay flat and pin to shape, letting the yarn relax so the stitch pattern evens out.
• Press with steam if your yarn fiber allows to set the V and hems.

Sizing adjustments & tips

• To lengthen the body: add even numbers of rows before shoulder shaping.
• To change fit around bust: adjust starting chains in multiples that keep pattern balance (increase or decrease in multiples of 2 dc).
• To make the V deeper: increase the number of RS decreases; to shallower the V, decrease fewer times.
• To make the neckline narrower: reduce shoulder counts when you divide the front (work fewer shoulder sts on each side).

Stitch variations

Swap double crochet for half‑double crochet for a denser fabric (you will need a larger hook to keep drape similar) or use a lacy mesh stitch for a lightweight summer version — adjust yardage and gauge accordingly.

Troubleshooting

• If your V is lopsided, check that decreases are worked only on RS rows and that you’re decreasing the same amount on both sides of center.
• If the neck is puckering, try a larger hook for the edging, or reduce the number of edging rounds.

Copyright & pattern use

Pattern written for personal use. You may sell finished items made from this pattern but please credit & link to https://purljam.verde.uk. For questions or help: team@verde.uk. Share makes on socials with #purljam.

Happy crocheting — take your time with the V shaping and block gently for the best results.

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