Crochet Whimsical Fairy — Amigurumi Pattern

Make a small, whimsical crochet fairy with a soft body, flowing hair, a flared skirt and delicate lace wings. Skill level: Intermediate (experience with magic ring, increases/decreases and sewing pieces together helpful). Finished size: approx 7–9 inches / 18–23 cm tall depending on yarn/hook and stuffing.

Materials

• Yarn (worsted/DK blend recommended): total approx 200 yards / 183 meters. Suggested breakdown (approximate): Skin color 50 yds / 46 m; Hair color 50 yds / 46 m; Dress/main clothing 60 yds / 55 m; Wings/accents 20 yds / 18 m; Small scraps for shoes/flowers 20 yds / 18 m. Weight note: DK / light worsted (Weight 3) works well; you may use sport or worsted adjusting hook size.
• Hook sizes (choose for tight amigurumi fabric): US: D/3 (sometimes recommended smaller for dense fabric) and G/6 for optional looser stitches. UK (old): 10 (approx) for D/3; 4 (approx) for G/6. Metric: 3.25 mm (D/3) and 4.0 mm (G/6). Use the smaller size that gives you a tight fabric with no visible stuffing.
• Safety eyes: 6–8 mm / 0.24–0.31 in (choose 6 mm for smaller face, 8 mm for more whimsical look). Alternatively embroider eyes.
• Polyfill stuffing; tapestry/yarn needle; small sewing needle; stitch marker; scissors; optional thin florist wire for wings (for shaping); small amount of blush or pastel for cheeks; optional fabric glue or craft glue.

Notions & Tools

• Tapestry needle (large eye)
• Embroidery thread for mouth/eyebrows (cotton or floss)
• Optional: small amount of craft glue to secure knots

Gauge

Not critical, but with DK yarn and 3.25 mm hook, 6 sc x 6 rows = approx 1 inch / 2.5 cm. Use a slightly smaller hook if your fabric is too loose and stuffing shows through.

Abbreviations (US terms)

• ch = chain
• sc = single crochet
• hdc = half double crochet
• dc = double crochet
• sl st = slip stitch
• inc = increase (2 sc in same st)
• dec = single crochet invisible decrease
• BLO = back loops only
• FLO = front loops only
• MR = magic ring
Note: rounds worked in continuous spiral unless otherwise stated; use stitch marker to mark beginning of rounds.

Color key (example)

• Color A = Skin
• Color B = Hair
• Color C = Dress/Main outfit
• Color D = Wing/Accent

Head and Body (worked in one piece)

Worked top-down. Switch to Color C for body when indicated.

Use Color A.

1. R1: MR, 6 sc into ring (6)
2. R2: inc around (12)
3. R3: (sc1, inc) x6 (18)
4. R4: (sc2, inc) x6 (24)
5. R5: sc around (24)
6. R6: sc around (24)
7. R7: sc around (24)
8. R8: sc around (24) — place safety eyes between R6 and R7 or after R7; space eyes about 6 stitches apart centered on front of face.
9. R9: sc around (24)
10. R10: (sc2, dec) x6 (18) — shaping jaw
11. R11: sc around (18)
12. R12: dec x6 (12) — neck narrowing. Stuff head firmly but leave room for body stuffing later.
13. Change to Color C for body.
14. R13: (sc3, inc) x3 (15)
15. R14: (sc4, inc) x3 (18)
16. R15: sc around (18)
17. R16: sc around (18)
18. R17: (sc4, dec) x3 (15)
19. R18: (sc3, dec) x3 (12)
20. R19: sc around (12) — leave opening for inserting legs if making joined legs or continue if attaching legs later; stuff torso firmly but not overstuffed.

Legs (make 2)

Worked top-down from hip to foot. Attach to body at bottom opening or sew on afterwards. Use Color C for shoes or Color A for skin depending on shoe design.

1. R1: MR, 6 sc into ring (6)
2. R2: inc around (12)
3. R3: (sc1, inc) x4 (16)
4. R4: sc around (16)
5. R5: sc around (16)
6. R6: (sc3, inc) x4 (20) — widen at ankle/foot
7. R7-R11: sc around (20) — lengthen leg to desired length (adjust rows for scale)
8. Stuff foot and lower leg lightly; leave long tail for sewing. For a shoe: change to shoe color 2 rounds from R7 and work 2 rounds shoe color.

Arms (make 2)

Simple tube-shaped arms worked from hand upward.

1. R1: MR, 6 sc into ring (6)
2. R2: inc around (12)
3. R3-R9: sc around (12) — length to elbow or desired arm length
4. Stuff lightly; leave tail for sewing. Slight taper: do a decrease round near shoulder: (sc2, dec) x3 to shape the shoulder if desired.

Skirt / Dress

Worked in rounds from waist downward to make a flared skirt. Work onto body stitches at waist (R15 area) or make a separate skirt and sew on.

1. At waist (where body circumference = 18 sts), join Color C if not already in body.
2. Round 1 (skirt foundation): sc around (18)
3. Round 2: *ch 1, sk 1, sc in next* repeat to create a subtle lace edge or continue sc around for plain skirt
4. Round 3 (shell row for flare): *skip 1 st, 5 dc in next st (shell), skip 1, sc in next* repeat around. Adjust spacing so shells are evenly placed (approx 6 shells)
5. Round 4: one round sc across shells to stabilize or add another shell row for more volume.
6. Work 2–4 more rounds of decorative stitches (picots, small puff stitches or surface slip stitches) to desired length.

Wings (make 2)

Simple lace fan wings worked flat in Color D. Each wing approx 6–8 cm wide.

1. Foundation: ch 9, sc in 2nd ch from hook and across (8 sc)
2. Row 2: ch3, turn, dc across in each st (8 dc)
3. Row 3: ch1, turn, *sk next st, 5 dc in next st (picot fan), sk next st, sc in next* repeat creating 2 fans per wing depending on width
4. Optional: add chain loops along the top edge and secure to create lace loops; fasten off leaving long tail to sew.
5. Support: optionally run thin florist wire along wing center or perimeter wrapping wire with fine yarn to keep shape; leave ends trimmed inside body or covered.

Hair

Two options: crochet a wig-cap or attach looped strands.

Wig cap

1. Using Color B, MR 6 sc (6)
2. R2: inc around (12)
3. R3: (sc1, inc) x6 (18)
4. R4-R8: sc around (18) — try cap on head and stop when cover is correct
5. Fasten off; attach with whipstitch along hairline; cut yarn to create bangs or layers.

Looped hair

1. Cut many strands of yarn twice desired final length. Using a crochet hook, pull loops through cap stitches and secure with a knot to create dense hair. Trim to shape.

Face & Embellishments

• Embroider mouth simply: a small curved stitch in embroidery floss (pink or darker yarn). Place mouth 2–3 rounds below eyes.
• Add small satin stitch eyebrows or tiny straight stitches for expression.
• Cheeks: dab a tiny bit of pastel chalk or blush and seal lightly with textile medium or minimal hairspray. Test on scrap first.
• Optional blush: embroider small loops or French knots for freckles.

Assembly

1. Sew legs to bottom opening of body: place legs evenly spaced; use ladder stitch or whipstitch, sewing through torso rounds and leg top to secure. Reinforce with extra stitches if child-safe play required.
2. Sew arms at shoulder area: tuck under a couple of stitches at side and sew firmly. Angle arms slightly forward for a welcoming fairy pose.
3. Sew on wings centered on back: use long tail to stitch through body stitches; reinforce stitches. If using wire, hide wire ends inside body carefully.
4. Sew hair cap in place; if using looped hair, sew wig cap and then attach loops to create full hair. Trim to shape and style into braids, buns, or loose waves.
5. Embroider final facial details and add accessories (tiny crocheted flower, crown, or scarf). Attach small seed beads or sequins sparingly for sparkle (secure with glue or thread).

Finishing

• Weave in all ends and secure knots. Dab a little craft glue on inside knots for long-term security.
• Shape wings and skirt; if wire was used in wings, adjust shape carefully.
• Lightly block wings if using a lacy openwork pattern to flatten and set shape: pin to shape and mist with water, leave to dry.

Tips & Variations

• Make a tiny crown by chaining 20 and using picot edging, sewing into a circlet.
• For a baby-safe version: embroider eyes and remove any beads or safety eyes.
• Play with scale: use finer yarn and smaller hook for a miniature fairy, or bulky yarn and larger hook for a larger friend.
• For sparkly wings use thin metallic thread or a small amount of sequin trim; be cautious for small-child use.

Troubleshooting

• If stuffing shows through, switch to smaller hook or add a lining by working a round of slip stitches inside garment pieces before final assembly.
• Uneven head shaping: add or remove rounds gradually rather than abrupt change; use stitch marker to keep track of increases/decreases.

Care

Spot clean with damp cloth and mild soap. Avoid machine washing with safety eyes or glued pieces. Store out of direct sunlight to avoid color fading.

Notes

Measurements and yardage are approximate. Adjust rounds and stitch counts to alter proportions for your desired look. This pattern is provided for personal use and gifts. Do not sell as your own pattern. You may sell finished items; please credit the source: PurlJam (https://purljam.verde.uk).

Support/contact: team@verde.uk. Socials: #purljam.

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