Dark Academia Delicate Light Blouse (Top-Down Raglan, Lace Panels)

An elegant, lightweight fingering-weight blouse with narrow vertical eyelet lace panels, a slightly raised, neat neckline and gentle drape—perfect for a layered dark-academia wardrobe. Worked seamlessly top-down with raglan shaping; body and sleeves finished in a soft ribbed hem. This pattern is written for five sizes and is intentionally adjustable; gauge matters—swatch first.

Sizes (Finished Bust Circumference / Recommended Ease)

• S: 34" (86 cm) finished (approx. 0"–2" positive ease)
• M: 38" (97 cm)
• L: 42" (107 cm)
• XL: 46" (117 cm)
• XXL: 50" (127 cm)

Materials

• Yarn: Fingering weight (4-ply)—soft wool, wool blend or silk-fingering for drape. Yardage per size: S: 900 yd (823 m); M: 1000 yd (914 m); L: 1150 yd (1052 m); XL: 1300 yd (1189 m); XXL: 1450 yd (1326 m). Yarn label example: 400–425 yd / 100 g (365–388 m / 100 g).
• Needles: Circular needles and DPNs as needed. Recommended sizes: Main: US 3 / UK 11 / 3.25 mm; Optional larger for loosened fabric or hem: US 4 / UK 10 / 3.5 mm; For neck/ribbing: US 2 / UK 12 / 2.75 mm. Use 16" (40 cm) and 24"–32" (60–80 cm) circulars for body and sleeves.
• Waste yarn or stitch holders for sleeves.
• 4 stitch markers, tapestry needle, measuring tape, blocking tools.

Gauge

24 sts and 32 rounds = 4" (10 cm) in stockinette on US 3 / 3.25 mm after blocking. The pattern uses gauge to compute raglan increases; if your gauge differs, adjust needle sizes or final stitch targets proportionally.

Abbreviations (US)

• k: knit
• p: purl
• k2tog: knit two together (right-leaning decrease)
• ssk: slip, slip, knit (left-leaning decrease)
• yo: yarn over
• M1L / M1R: make one left/right (increase as shown below)
• st(s): stitch(es)
• RS: right side; WS: wrong side

Notes

• This is a top-down raglan worked in the round. You cast on a small neck circumference and work raglan increase rounds (2 increases at each raglan—8 sts gained per increase round) until you reach the target total stitch count for your desired finished bust circumference (table below gives counts and number of increase rounds).
• When you reach the target total stitches, you'll place sleeve stitches on waste yarn and join the body in the round to work the torso with evenly spaced lace panels. When body length from underarm reaches desired measurement, work rib hem. Then return to sleeves and knit down to cuff and rib.
• Lace panels are simple vertical eyelet ladders (3-stitch panel). The pattern provides spacing per size to place panels evenly.

Stitch math and targets

Gauge used: 6 sts = 1" (2.54 cm). Total stitches required = (Finished bust in inches) x 6. Initial cast-on is 60 sts (divided as Front / Sleeve / Back / Sleeve = 6 / 24 / 6 / 24). Increase rounds are worked until total stitches (table below) are reached.

Raglan increase method (worked on RS increase rounds only)

At each raglan marker you will make 2 increases (one before and one after the marker). A recommended method: before marker: M1R (lift thread between sts from back to front and knit through front loop); after marker: M1L (lift thread and knit through back loop). Example increase sequence at marker: k to 1 st before marker, M1R, slip marker, k1, M1L, continue. This adds 2 sts per section per increase round, 8 sts total per increase round.

Neck and Yoke

1. Using US 2 / 2.75 mm needles, CO 60 sts. Place markers and join for working in the round, being careful not to twist. Markers placement: Place M1 after 6 sts (Front), M2 after next 24 sts (Sleeve 1), M3 after next 6 sts (Back), M4 after next 24 sts (Sleeve 2). Sequence around: [6F] M1 [24S] M2 [6B] M3 [24S] M4 (total 60).
2. Work 2 rounds in 1x1 rib (k1, p1) for a neat neckline using US 2 / 2.75 mm. Switch to main needle US 3 / 3.25 mm.
3. Begin increase rounds: Work 1 plain round (set-up), then repeat the following increase round every RS round: *k to 1 st before raglan marker, M1R, slip marker, k1, M1L* at each marker around. Between increase rounds work 1 round stockinette (knit all) on RS so increases are spaced every other round OR work increases every other round to ease shaping. Continue alternating (Increase round, plain round) until you have completed the number of increase rounds for your size (see table above). After the final increase, total stitches will equal the target total in the table.

Placing sleeves and dividing

1. After completing all increase rounds, you'll have the final total stitches. The raglan sections now correspond to the desired final counts. Slip sleeve stitches (the two sleeve sections) onto waste yarn or holders: Sleeve 1 = final sleeve sts (see table), Sleeve 2 = final sleeve sts. Leave Front+Back stitches on the main circular for working the body in the round.
2. Join body: Join the front+back stitches together in the round (you should now be working just the torso circumference). Place a marker at beginning of round.

Lace panel setup for the Body

Lace panel definition (3-stitch vertical eyelet ladder, 2-row repeat):

• Panel (3 sts, 2-row repeat): Row A (RS): k1, yo, k2tog. Row B (WS): p3. Repeat Rows A–B for vertical ladder.

We will place 8 panels evenly around the body. Panel width = 3 sts each. For each size the spacer widths between panels are:

• S (body sts 84): 8 spacers of which the first 4 are 8 sts and the last 4 are 7 sts. (Sequence: 8,3,8,3,8,3,8,3,7,3,7,3,7,3,7,3 — start anywhere but keep sequence symmetric if preferred.)
• M (body 96): 8 spacers of 9 sts (evenly spaced).
• L (body 108): spacers: four 11-st and four 10-st spacers (distribute evenly).
• XL (body 120): spacers 12 sts each.
• XXL (body 132): spacers: four 14-st and four 13-st spacers.

Example placement method: Starting at the center front marker, work Spacer1 sts in stockinette, then begin Panel (3 sts), then Spacer2, Panel, etc. Keep track so panels are evenly distributed. Work the 2-row panel repeat for the height of the body; all WS rounds are purled for a clean look between ladders.

Body Length and Hem

1. Work body in the round in stockinette with lace panels until desired length from underarm to hem. Suggested length: 16.5" (42 cm) for a mid-hip blouse. Adjust to taste—measure as you go.
2. Change to smaller needle (US 2 / 2.75 mm) and work 1x1 rib (k1, p1) for 1"–1.5" (2.5–4 cm) for a neat hem. Bind off loosely in rib.

Sleeves

1. Transfer sleeve stitches from waste yarn to circular or DPNs. Join in the round and pick up 1 extra stitch under each sleeve seam if needed for a smoother join (optional).
2. Place a single vertical lace panel centered on the sleeve as follows: work half the spacer stitches in stockinette, work Panel (3 sts), then complete remaining spacer sts. Use the calculations below to center the panel: S: left 28 / panel 3 / right 29; M: 31/3/32; L: 34/3/35; XL: 37/3/38; XXL: 40/3/41.
3. Sleeve shaping: If you want a gently fitted sleeve, decrease 4 sts evenly around the sleeve (k2tog spaced) every 3–4 inches until you reach the wrist circumference you prefer. Example target wrist circumference ~8"–9" (48–54 sts), but this is optional. For a relaxed billowy sleeve keep sleeve stitches and only shape slightly towards cuff.
4. Work to desired sleeve length from underarm (suggest 17" / 43 cm for long sleeves). Finish with 1x1 rib on US 2 / 2.75 mm for 2–3" (5–7.5 cm) and bind off loosely in rib.

Finishing

• Weave in ends.
• Block gently to measurements: soak in lukewarm water with wool wash, squeeze out, lay flat to shape. For the lace columns open up gently with pins. Let dry thoroughly.
• Optional: Add narrow decorative trim at neckline or hem by crocheting a small picot edge with a fine hook.

Alterations & Fit Notes

• To lengthen/shorten body or sleeves, add/subtract stockinette rows before ribbing.
• If your gauge is different, calculate target total stitches = desired finished bust (inches) x your stitches-per-inch. Number of increase rounds = (target total - 60) / 8. Make sure this is a whole number; if not, adjust initial cast-on by +/-1 stitch so the difference is divisible by 8, or change target slightly (¼" increments).
• To adjust the number of lace panels, keep panel width constant (3 sts) and recalculate spacer widths as described in the body section.

Troubleshooting

• If raglan shaping looks uneven, check that you performed M1R and M1L correctly (they lean opposite ways and create neat increases).
• Lace ladders can twist if yarn overs are worked inconsistently; maintain orientation and always work the simple 2-row repeat (RS eyelet row, WS purl).

Notes & Credits

Pattern & tech editing: PurlJam / Verde.uk. Website: https://purljam.verde.uk. For support or pattern questions: team@verde.uk. Share your makes on socials: #purljam.

Happy knitting—enjoy the soft drape and the quiet, scholarly vibes of this dark-academia inspired blouse.

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