An elegant, slightly fitted pullover in a moody, scholarly palette. Worked bottom-up with a textured centre panel and clean ribbed edges for a timeless dark academia look. Written for DK/light-worsted yarn. Techniques: knitting in the round, simple lace-less texture panel, set-in or drop shoulder finish (options given).
Intermediate. Comfortable with knitting in the round, reading stitch repeats, and basic shaping. No cables or chart-reading required.
Gauge: 22 sts = 4 in (10 cm) in Stockinette on 4.0 mm needles = 5.5 sts/inch (US 6 / UK 8).
DK / Light Worsted weight. Example requirements (approx): XS 5 x 100 g skeins (1150 yd / 1050 m total), S 6 x100 g (1386 yd / 1266 m), M 7 x100 g (1617 yd / 1480 m), L 8 x100 g (1848 yd / 1692 m), XL 9 x100 g (2079 yd / 1904 m), XXL 10 x100 g (2310 yd / 2115 m). Typical skein: 100 g = 231 yd (211 m). Use yardage of your chosen yarn to confirm totals before starting.
US / UK (old) / Metric
22 sts and 28 rows = 4 in (10 cm) in Stockinette on 4.0 mm (US 6 / UK 8) needles. Always knit a swatch and block it to get accurate gauge.
Panel width: multiple of 8 sts. Work between markers; texture is subtle vertical diamonds for a vintage academic look.
Row 1 (RS): *K3, P2, K1, P2* repeat to end.
Row 2 (WS): *P3, K2, P1, K2* repeat.
Row 3: *K2, P4, K2* repeat.
Row 4: *P2, K4, P2* repeat.
Row 5: *K1, P6, K1* repeat.
Row 6: *P1, K6, P1* repeat.
Row 7: Repeat Row 3.
Row 8: Repeat Row 4.
Repeat Rows 1–8 for the panel.
This jumper is written so you can calculate your cast-on from your chosen finished bust measurement. Formula: Cast-on sts = (Finished bust in inches) × (Gauge in sts per inch). Choose a cast-on that is a multiple of 8 (to accommodate the textured panel repeats) or work your texture panels and plain stockinette balance accordingly. Example cast-on counts (multiple of 8) given below for convenience.
1. Using smaller needles (US 4 / 3.5 mm) and long-tail tubular or ordinary cast-on, cast on number of sts for your size (see example counts). Join in the round, being careful not to twist. Place marker for beginning of round.
2. Hem: Work 2x2 twisted rib or 2x2 rib for 2.5"–3" (or desired depth). Switch to main needles (US 6 / 4.0 mm).
3. Establish pattern round: Decide placement of textured panel(s). Example: one central panel on front only — work stockinette in the round except when you reach the front center panel where you work the 8-st textured repeat over a multiple of 8 sts for the panel. If working the panel on the front only, you will divide the round into Back – Panel – Front – Panel – Back layout depending on taste. For a clean continuous texture across the front, place a marker at each panel edge.
4. Knit in the round until the body measures approx 16.5–18.0" from cast-on edge (or desired length to underarm). Measure on the inside of the garment.
5. Underarm split: Work to divide for front and back: Place half the stitches on a holder for the back (or put them on waste yarn), then work the Front flat first and the Back flat, shaping neck as desired. Alternatively, if you prefer a fully seamless sweater you can separate for armholes and graft later — this pattern assumes a simple split and finishing by seaming or mattress stitch.
Work front stitches flat in pattern until front measures same as back to shoulder height minus 1.5–2" for neck depth. For a shallow crew, when front piece reaches desired height, begin neck shaping by binding off center 6–12 sts (depending on size) and working each side separately, decreasing 1 st at neck edge every other row 2–4 times for a gentle scoop. Continue until front meets shoulder height.
Work back flat in pattern to the same total length as the front to shoulder height. You can leave back shoulders even (no shaping) for a boxy drop-shoulder look or shape shoulders by binding off equal numbers at the beginning of next 4 rows to form shoulder slopes if you prefer.
1. Cast on the suggested sleeve sts for your size (examples: XS 80, S 88, M 96, L 104, XL 112, XXL 120). Work ribbing (2x2) in smaller needles for 2.5–3". Switch to main needles.
2. Sleeve increases: Increase 1 st each end every 6–8 rounds until sleeve reaches approx the upper-arm desired circumference (measure from pattern sample or target upper-arm measurement). Or increase 8 sts evenly distributed every X inches until you reach target number of sts (your desired final sleeve circumference × gauge sts/inch). Keep texture panel subtle on sleeve (optional vertical knit/purl stripes).
3. Work straight until sleeve length (from underarm) reaches desired length. For drop-shoulder set-in ease, stop earlier so the sleeve seam will hit the body where you want.
4. Finish: Bind off loosely in pattern.
Block gently to measurements, shaping textured panels to lie flat. Air dry flat. For wool fibers, hand wash cold and lay flat; for superwash or blends check yarn recommendations.
Pattern created for quiet, moody knit vibes. For help, gauge questions, or yarn suggestions, visit https://purljam.verde.uk or email team@verde.uk. Share your makes with #purljam.