Deep V-Neck Bohemian Maxi Dress (Crochet) - Top-Down with Lacey Shell Skirt

Overview

This pattern creates a breathable, drapey bohemian maxi dress with a deep V-front and a gently flared lace skirt. Constructed top-down: work two mirrored front panels to shape the deep V-neck, work the back panel, join under the bust, then continue the skirt in the round with gradual increases for a flowing maxi length. Optional waist tie or drawstring, lined or worn with a slip.

Sizes and Finished Measurements

Sizes: XS (S, M, L, XL, 2X, 3X). Finished bust circumference measured at widest point of dress: 32 (35, 37.5, 40, 44, 48, 52) in / 81 (89, 95, 102, 112, 122, 132) cm. Recommended ease: 2–6 in / 5–15 cm depending on desired fit. Default finished length (shoulder to hem): 55 in / 140 cm; adjust length in skirt section.

Materials

• Yarn: Light Worsted / DK weight yarn. Suggested fiber: cotton or cotton-blend for body and drape. Approximate yardage per size: XS 1600 yd / 1460 m (~730 g), S 1750 yd / 1600 m (~800 g), M 1950 yd / 1780 m (~900 g), L 2150 yd / 1960 m (~980 g), XL 2350 yd / 2150 m (~1070 g), 2X 2550 yd / 2330 m (~1160 g), 3X 2750 yd / 2515 m (~1250 g). These estimates assume 220 yd / 100 g DK yarn; adjust if using lighter or heavier yarn.
• Hooks: Primary hooks: US G/6 (4.0 mm) and US 7 (4.5 mm) for gauge/drift options. Secondary for blocking or edgings: US H/8 (5.0 mm). UK (old) equivalents: 4.0 mm ~ UK 8, 4.5 mm ~ UK 7, 5.0 mm ~ UK 6. Metric: 4.0 mm, 4.5 mm, 5.0 mm.
• Notions: tapestry needle, stitch markers (6+), tape measure, waste yarn for provisional chains if preferred, optional elastic or cord for waist drawstring.

Gauge

18 sts x 10 rows = 10 cm / 4 in in the shell lace pattern using 4.5 mm hook after blocking. Make a 15 x 15 cm swatch in pattern and adjust hook if you get more or fewer stitches.

Stitch Abbreviations (US)

• ch = chain
• sc = single crochet
• hdc = half double crochet
• dc = double crochet
• dtr = double treble crochet (UK trtr)
• sk = skip
• sp = space
• st(s) = stitch(es)
• tog = together

Pattern Notes

• Worked top-down. The dress begins with three flat panels worked separately: left front, right front, and back. The inner edges of the front panels are shaped with decreases to create the deep V. After panels reach underbust depth you join all panels and continue the body in the round.
• Shell lace pattern is a multiple of 6 sts. Throughout the body maintain multiples of 6 for seamless shells.
• Where instructions show numbers in parentheses they correspond to sizes XS (S, M, L, XL, 2X, 3X). Follow numbers for your chosen size.
• Use stitch markers to mark panel seams and beginning of round after joining.

Panel Setup and Starting Counts

These are the stitch counts for each panel when you start the yoke. Each panel count is a multiple of 6 to work the shell repeat cleanly.

• XS: each panel 48 sts (total after joining 144)
• S: each panel 52 sts (total 156)
• M: each panel 56 sts (total 168)
• L: each panel 60 sts (total 180)
• XL: each panel 66 sts (total 198)
• 2X: each panel 72 sts (total 216)
• 3X: each panel 78 sts (total 234)

Shell Lace Pattern (multiple of 6)

1. Row 1 (RS): Skip 2 ch, *(2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc) in next ch, sk 2 ch, sc in next ch; repeat from * to end, turn.
2. Row 2: ch 2, *(2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc) in ch-1 sp of shell below, sk next sc, sc in top of next dc; repeat, turn.
3. Repeat Rows 1-2 for pattern. Each repeat of Rows 1-2 = 1 pattern unit vertically.

Front Panels - Deep V Shaping (worked flat, two mirrored panels)

You will make two identical panels; work one and mirror for the other. For the right front, exterior edge will be straight; interior edge will decrease to form V. For left front, reverse decreases.

1. Foundation chain: ch the number of stitches for one panel. Example: XS ch48, S ch52, M ch56, L ch60, XL ch66, 2X ch72, 3X ch78.
2. Row 1 (RS): Work Row 1 of shell lace across the chain. Place a marker at the exterior edge (this will be shoulder/arm edge).
3. Work shell pattern shaping rows until panel height equals desired front drop before V begins. Typical distance from shoulder to underbust = 9 (9.5, 10, 10.5, 11, 11.5, 12) in / 23 (24, 25, 26, 28, 29, 30) cm measured on your body from shoulder down to where you want seam under bust. Do not shape V yet; just work rectangular panel first.
4. Begin V shaping on inner edge: mark inner edge stitch. On RS rows, at inner edge work the shell pattern but decrease 1 shell repeat every RS row by working last shell as follows: instead of (2 dc, ch1, 2 dc) make (2 dc, ch1) leaving off the final 2 dc and then sc into next st; on following WS row mirror the decrease so the inner edge steps inward. Practically: decrease by 3 sts on the inner edge every 2 rows. Repeat decrease until you have reduced the inner edge by approx 6-10 shell repeats depending on desired V depth. For a deep V, decrease until inner edge has 6-8 remaining sts (i.e. 1 or 2 small shells). Typical V depth measured from shoulder seam to lowest point of V: 12 (12.5, 13, 13.5, 14, 14.5, 15) in / 31 (32, 33, 34, 36, 37, 38) cm. Use a tape measure held against your body to determine when to stop.
5. Maintain the exterior/shoulder edge straight without increases or decreases.

Back Panel (worked flat)

1. Chain the back panel number: same count as fronts. Example: XS ch48 etc.
2. Work shell lace in rows without shaping until back panel height equals front panel height measured from shoulder to underbust. Keep edges straight.

Joining Underbust and Starting the Body

1. Lay the three panels flat with RS facing up: left front, back, right front. Align underbust row. Using 1 row of sc or join-as-you-go technique, join panels together along their side edges up to the armhole depth. Leave openings for armholes equal to the width of one panel exterior edge to shoulder - approximately 7 (7.25, 7.5, 7.75, 8, 8.5, 9) in / 18 (18.5, 19, 19.5, 20, 21.5, 23) cm depending on size, or your desired armhole depth. If you prefer, join only at the underbust row and then work in the round, leaving armholes open until skirt shaping; this gives a sleeveless look.
2. Once joined, count total sts around at the join. It should equal the totals listed earlier: XS 144, S 156, M 168, L 180, XL 198, 2X 216, 3X 234. Ensure this number is a multiple of 6 for shell repeats. If your count differs by a few stitches, use a sc/gap adjustment row to even it out before proceeding.

Skirt - Worked in the Round

Switch to circular working if you joined panels; place marker for beginning of round. Begin working shell lace in the round with the shell repeat structured so shells stack and flow. Increase rounds every 4th round by adding extra shells evenly around to create flare. A simple increase strategy: every 4th round add 1 extra shell every 8 shells. Row-by-row:

1. Round 1: Join and work Row 1 of shell lace continuously in rounds: consider each shell as (2 dc, ch1, 2 dc) worked into ch-1 space beneath. Work sc in spaces between shells.
2. Rounds 2-3: continue shell pattern in the round without increasing.
3. Round 4: Increase round - evenly space increases by working an additional shell (6 sts) after every n shells. Example distribution by size: XS add 6 shells total across first 6 increase rounds; S add more, etc. To simplify: increase 6 sts every 4th round by turning 1 sc into a mini shell (hdc, ch1, hdc) or insert a full 6-st shell in large gowns. Repeat increase round every 4th round until skirt width feels right. Aim for skirt circumference at hem of approx 100 (110, 120, 130, 140, 150, 160) in / 254 (279, 305, 330, 356, 381, 406) cm depending on boho fullness.
4. Continue until desired length. For a maxi, typical finished skirt length from underbust to hem is 42 in / 107 cm but adjust for your height and desired hem sweep.

Skirt Increase Guide (practical)

Work increases gradually and evenly. Example increment plan for moderate flare: increase by 6 sts (one shell) every 4 rounds for the first 12 increases, then every 6 rounds for the next 8 increases, then stop to maintain flow. Adjust frequency for more or less full skirt.

Armholes and Edging

1. For sleeveless: Finish the armhole edges by working 2 rounds of sc around each armhole, then a decorative picot or shell 1 round: *sc 3, sk 1, picot/sc pattern. Block.
2. For straps: From the top exterior shoulder edge, pick up sts and work a tube strap in sc or hdc to desired strap width (1-2 in / 2.5-5 cm). Fasten to the top of the opposite shoulder or leave crisscrossed as desired.

Deep V Finishing

Work a neat edging along the V neckline: 1 round sc along the inner V edge, ensuring you place 2-3 sc in each shell ch-1 space and sc evenly over the sloped decreased edge to give smooth shaping. Optionally add a delicate lace picot round for boho detail: *sc 3, ch 3, sl st in 3rd ch to form picot, sc 3.*

Waist Tie

Optional: make an I-cord or long chain strap with slip stitch cord and weave through the shell gaps at waist or create a small casing inside the waist with an elastic cord.

Finishing

1. Weave in ends with tapestry needle. Block the dress to measurements: pin to desired length and allow to dry.
2. If desired, sew a lightweight full slip for opacity or add a crocheted lining skirt worked separately and sewn to underbust line.

Alterations and Fit Tips

• To make the V shallower, stop decreasing earlier. To deepen it, continue decreasing inwards until you reach desired depth.
• To change fit at bust, alter front panel width before joining. To increase bust ease, add shells to each front panel in multiples of 6.
• If using a yarn with less drape (heavy cotton), use a larger hook for the skirt part to increase drape.

Care

Follow yarn manufacturer recommendations. For cotton blends, hand wash cold and dry flat to preserve shape. Block gently to avoid stretching lace excessively.

Notes on Yarn and Hook Equivalents

Yarn listed as Light Worsted / DK. Typical yardage per 100 g: ~220 yd / 200 m. Hook suggestions: US G/6 (4.0 mm) for snug lace, US 7 (4.5 mm) for gauge and drape, US H/8 (5.0 mm) for open drape. UK old sizes given above as equivalents.

Support and Patterns

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