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purlJam

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Delicate Irish Blouse

Light, feminine and airy—an Irish-inspired blouse worked in fingering-weight yarn with lace panels and subtle shaping. Knit flat in pieces and seamed for a neat finish. Options for short or long sleeves and a small button-back keyhole. Level: Intermediate (lace reading, basic shaping, seaming). Website: https://purljam.verde.uk Support: team@verde.uk Socials: #purljam

Sizes & Finished Measurements

Five sizes given. Finished bust measurements with approx 2” positive ease: XS (S, M, L, XL) = 34 (38, 42, 46, 50)”. Bust ease approx 2”; choose size nearest to your high-bust plus wearing ease. Finished body length from high shoulder: 20 (20½, 21, 21½, 22)”. Sleeve lengths: Short = 8”, Long = 16” (instructions for both).

Yarn

Fingering weight (light, 4-ply), approximately 400 yards (366 meters) per 100g skein recommended; soft wool-silk or merino-silk for drape and lovely stitch definition.

Approx yarn requirements (imperial / metric): XS 800 yds (732 m) ~220 g; S 900 yds (823 m) ~245 g; M 1000 yds (915 m) ~275 g; L 1150 yds (1052 m) ~315 g; XL 1300 yds (1189 m) ~345 g. Quantities are approximate—buy one extra skein if in doubt.

Needles (US, UK old, Metric)

  • Ribbing: US 1 — UK 13 — 2.25 mm
  • Body/Lace: US 3 — UK 11 — 3.25 mm
  • Circulars: 32” (80 cm) and 16” (40 cm) as needed to hold stitches; set of dpns or 16” circular for sleeves

Notions

  • Tapestry needle
  • Stitch markers
  • 3 small buttons for keyhole back (optional)
  • Blocking pins and surface for wet blocking

Gauge

24 sts & 32 rows = 4” (10 cm) in lace stitch pattern on US 3 (3.25 mm) after blocking. IMPORTANT: Block a swatch in the lace pattern and measure. Adjust needle size to match gauge.

Abbreviations

k = knit
p = purl
k2tog = knit 2 together (right-leaning decrease)
ssk = slip, slip, knit (left-leaning decrease)
yo = yarn over
rep = repeat
st(s) = stitch(es)
RS = right side
WS = wrong side
CO = cast on
BO = bind off
M1L = make 1 left (lift bar from back to front and knit through front)
M1R = make 1 right (lift bar from front to back and knit through back)
PM = place marker
SM = slip marker
Kfb = knit into front and back of stitch (increase)

Stitch Pattern - Irish-inspired Lace Panel

Multiple of 10 sts + 2 sel sts. Work sel sts at each edge if knitting flat (k at edges).

Row 1 (RS): k2, *k2tog, yo, k4, yo, ssk, k2*; k2.
Row 2 (WS): purl.
Row 3: k2, *k1, yo, k3, ssk, k2tog, k1, yo*; k2.
Row 4: purl.
Row 5: Repeat Row 1.
Row 6: purl.
Row 7: k2, *k2, yo, ssk, k2tog, yo, k2*; k2.
Row 8: purl.
Repeat Rows 1–8 for pattern.

Construction Overview

Back and Front are worked flat from lower edge up. Sleeves are worked flat then seamed into armholes. Lace panels are integrated into fronts and back: two vertical lace panels on front, one central lace panel on back. Side panels in stockinette between lace panels allow shaping and seaming.

Calculating Cast-on Stitches

Using gauge 6 sts per inch (24 sts/4”): Finished half-bust (front or back) in inches x 6 = number of stitches. Adjust to make stitch count compatible with lace pattern multiples: divide stitches into: edge sel sts (2) + left lace panel (10-st multiple) + center stockinette panel + right lace panel (10-st multiple) + edge sel sts (2). Pattern notes below give exact counts for each size.

Suggested stitch distribution (by size)

XS (34" finished): cast on 102 sts (front) = 2 sel + 10*3 lace (30) + center stockinette 68 + 2 sel
S (38"): 114 sts = 2 + 10*3 (30) + center 82 + 2
M (42"): 126 sts = 2 + 10*4 (40) + center 84 + 2
L (46"): 138 sts = 2 + 10*4 (40) + center 96 + 2
XL (50"): 150 sts = 2 + 10*5 (50) + center 96 + 2
These are suggested layouts; you may shift repeats for symmetry. Ensure center stockinette is big enough to shape bust if desired.

Back (work for both short and long sleeve versions)

  1. Using US 1 (2.25 mm) needles, CO the number of sts for Back from table above (half bust). Work 1–2” of 1x1 rib (k1, p1) for lower edge, ending after RS row. Switch to US 3 (3.25 mm).
  2. Begin lace pattern: place sel st, work left lace panel (follow Lace pattern multiple), work center stockinette stitches, work right lace panel, end sel st. Continue working lace pattern across panels; center stockinette rows are worked in stockinette on RS, purl on WS.
  3. Work even until armhole depth (measured from lower edge) = 8 (8½, 9, 9½, 10)” or until piece measures approximately to underarm, ending on a WS row.
  4. Shape shoulders: divide sts for three-needle bind-off or simple shaping: Shoulder shaping: On RS rows bind off 6 (6, 7, 7, 8) sts at beginning of next 4 rows (2 times each side) OR shape as needed to get a smooth shoulder slope. After shoulder shaping, bind off remaining center sts for neck if working separate shoulder pieces. Alternatively, leave shoulder sts on waste yarn to graft later for a neat finish.

Front

  1. Work as Back through lower edge rib and lace placement. To create the keyhole back opening and slight front neckline shaping, work front until armhole same as back (8–10” depending on size).
  2. Shape neck: Work center sts in stockinette for neckline and decrease 1 st at each neck edge every RS row 4 times, then every RS row 2 times (or until desired neckline width), keeping lace panels intact. When front height matches back to shoulder, perform shoulder shaping mirroring the back.

Sleeves (Short or Long)

  1. CO sleeve sts using US 1 (2.25 mm): cast on 44 (48, 52, 56, 60) sts for short sleeve, or 52 (56, 60, 64, 68) for long sleeve. Work 1” of 1x1 rib; switch to US 3.
  2. Begin lace pattern: place sel st, work a small lace panel down center of sleeve (use a 10-st lace repeat) with stockinette edges, as preferred. Increase for sleeve width: increase 1 st each side every 8th row 6 (7, 8, 9, 10) times OR until sleeve cap circumference will match armhole when seamed. Keep even if you prefer a slim sleeve.
  3. Work until sleeve length reaches 8” (short) or 16” (long) from cast-on edge, ending on WS row. Cap shaping will be done when seamed in; for a smoother set-in, shape a shallow cap by decreasing at each end of RS rows: k2tog or ssk 1–2 stitches 2–4 times depending on size.

Finishing & Assembly

  1. Block all pieces to measurements. Gently stretch lace to open motif; pin to measurements and allow to dry.
  2. Seam shoulders by mattress stitch or three-needle bind-off for a clean join. If you left shoulder sts on waste yarn, graft with Kitchener stitch.
  3. Sew in sleeves: match underarm seams and ease sleeve cap into armhole; sew with mattress stitch for neatness.
  4. Sew side seams and sleeve seams from cuff to hem in one continuous mattress stitch for an invisible join.
  5. Neckband: Pick up sts evenly around neckline on US 1 needles (approx 60–70% of the neckline sts count depending on shaping). Work 1x1 rib for 1–1½”. For keyhole back leave a 1–2” gap at center back before joining rib. Bind off loosely in rib. Attach 3 small buttons and make corresponding button loops with simple crocheted chain or small yarn loops.
  6. Weave in ends and block lightly again if needed to settle seams.

Alterations & Fit Tips

  • To add positive ease, increase cast-on by increments of 6 sts per inch of added circumference (with our gauge). Recalculate lace multiples to fit new cast-on.
  • To make it more fitted remove decreases in front or reduce side seam allowance; add short-row bust darts behind lace side panels if needed for shaping.
  • For a raglan/top-down version: work a smaller gauge yoke in lace, then separate sleeves and body and follow lace and stitch counts from set-in version.

Care

Hand wash cool, lay flat to dry. Steam-blocking of lace may help open motifs (test a swatch first).

Notes

Pattern is intentionally modular—you can shift lace panel placement, add more repeats, or substitute a favorite Irish lace stitch. Keep an eye on stitch counts when altering. If you need help converting to a top-down yoke or adjusting for different yarn weight, try the calculator on our site or email team@verde.uk for support.

Enjoy knitting! Share finished projects and questions with us: https://purljam.verde.uk and #purljam on socials.


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