Light, airy top-down raglan sweater with a delicate openwork yoke and flowing body. Worked in fingering-weight yarn on larger needles for a diaphanous drape. Includes full size range, stitch counts, exact raglan maths, sleeve and hem finishing, and blocking notes.
Main circular (magic loop or long circular for small circumferences): US 6 / UK 8 / 4.0 mm. Ribbing / smaller needle: US 3 / UK 11 / 3.25 mm. Optional larger circular for even looser drape: US 7 / UK 7 / 4.5 mm. Short circulars or DPNs for sleeves if you prefer.
Fingering weight yarn (light, drapey): approximately 400 yd / 366 m per 100 g skein (use a linen/silk or silk/merino for best drape).
Approximate yardage per finished size (imperial / metric):
These are approximate; buy extra skeins if you plan longer body or sleeves. Example supply counting (400 yd / 100 g skeins): XS–S: about 3 skeins; M–L: 3–4 skeins; XL–XXL: 4–5 skeins depending on length.
20 sts and 28 rounds = 4" (10 cm) in lace/stockinette pattern on larger needles (US6 / 4.0 mm). Gauge is crucial for sleeve and body fit; adjust needle size to match.
| Size | Bust (finished) | Recommended bust (wearer) |
|---|---|---|
| XS | 32" (81 cm) | 30–32" |
| S | 36" (91 cm) | 34–36" |
| M | 40" (102 cm) | 38–40" |
| L | 44" (112 cm) | 42–44" |
| XL | 48" (122 cm) | 46–48" |
| XXL | 52" (132 cm) | 50–52" |
This top is worked top-down with raglan increases. The pattern uses even raglan shaping rounds; each increase round adds 8 sts total (2 sts added to each of the four raglan sections each increase round). The table below gives: cast-on (neck), number of increase rounds (n), and stitches per section after raglan shaping (front / sleeve1 / back / sleeve2).
| Size | Cast-on (CO) | Increase rounds (n) | Section counts after raglan | Sleeve sts (held) |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| XS | 48 | 16 | 12,12,12,12 -> final 44,44,44,44 | 44 |
| S | 54 | 18 | 14,13,14,13 -> final 50,49,50,49 | 49 |
| M | 60 | 20 | 15,15,15,15 -> final 55,55,55,55 | 55 |
| L | 66 | 22 | 17,16,17,16 -> final 61,60,61,60 | 60 |
| XL | 72 | 24 | 18,18,18,18 -> final 66,66,66,66 | 66 |
| XXL | 78 | 26 | 20,19,20,19 -> final 72,71,72,71 | 71 |
Notes: initial cast-on is distributed across front, sleeve, back, sleeve; if CO isn't divisible by 4 the extra sts are placed symmetrically on front and back. Each section gains 2 sts per increase round, so final section = initial_section + 2*n.
A gentle openwork that plays nicely with raglan increases. Work in the round as follows (multiple = 8 sts; the pattern flows over position of raglan seams):
Lace motif (worked every round unless instructed):
*k2, yo, k2tog, k2, ssk, yo* repeat to end of round.
This lace preserves stitch count each repeat (2 decreases and 2 yos per repeat) and yields an airy texture. If you prefer an even more open fabric use a needle size larger for the body after the yoke or substitute a different 8-stitch lace repeat of your choice.
Using smaller needles (US3 / 3.25 mm) and circular: CO the number of stitches for your size (see table) using your preferred cast-on (long-tail recommended). Join carefully being careful not to twist. Place 4 markers to divide sections: pm after the first section for raglan 1, pm after sleeve1 for raglan 2, pm after back for raglan 3, pm after sleeve2 for raglan 4.
Work 1x1 rib (k1, p1) for 1/2"–3/4" (1.25–2 cm) or desired neckline depth. Change to larger needles (US6 / 4.0 mm) and begin lace pattern.
Increase round (worked every other round; on the rounds between, work the lace pattern without increases):
Increase round: *Work lace pattern to 1 st before next marker, M1R, k1, sm, k1, M1L* repeat at each marker around. This places one increase on each side of every marker and adds 8 sts total.
Work increase rounds as many times as specified for your size in the table. Between increase rounds work one round of the lace pattern (no increases) so the raglan increases are distributed every other round for a neat line.
After finishing the last increase round for your size, work one more round in lace pattern. Then work the next round as follows: knit to first marker, place sleeve sts onto stitch holder or waste yarn, remove marker, CO X underarm sts (see table below), join to work body in the round, continue to next marker, place sleeve sts on holder, CO underarm sts, join as you did previously, continue around to the end. Use a smooth provisional cast-on for underarm or a simple backward-loop cast on; these underarm stitches will be worked into the side seams later or grafted when finishing.
Recommended underarm cast-on (approx): XS 8 sts each underarm; S 8; M 10; L 10; XL 12; XXL 12. Adjust if you prefer a larger underarm.
After separation you'll have front+back stitches plus underarm sts joined in the round. Work the lace pattern around for desired length, or transition to stockinette by knitting every round for a sleeker look. Example lengths: cropped 15" from shoulder, hip length 22" from shoulder. For a fluid drape, use the larger circular (US7 / 4.5 mm) for the body after the yoke.
Optional waist shaping: decrease 2 sts evenly every 4–6" to follow the body shape (not required).
Slip sleeve sts from holder onto needles and pick up the underarm sts you cast on when you separated the sleeves. Join in the round and place a marker at the start of the round.
Work lace pattern or stockinette in the round until sleeve measures 1" less than desired length from underarm. For tapered sleeve: decrease 2 sts (1 at each side of sleeve) every 8 rnds until you reach cuff circumference: aim for a cuff circumference of about 7–8" (relaxed) for a close fit or 9–10" for looser. How to decrease neatly: ssk 2 sts before the start-of-round marker and k2tog 2 sts after marker (spacing depends on where your decreases fall relative to lace repeats); maintain lace pattern as much as possible between the decrease points.
When sleeve reaches desired length, change to smaller needles and work 1/2"–1" of 1x1 rib, bind off loosely in rib.
Hand-wash and lay flat to dry. Linen and silk blends may bloom with steam; block to desired measurements with gentle tension on the lace motifs to open them evenly.
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