Disappearing Diamond Cable Cowl

A reversible cowl with cables that "appear" and "disappear" into diamond shapes as you work. Worked in the round, easy to adjust for circumference. Calm, modern cables with clear written rounds and tips.

Sizes (finished unstretched circumference)

• Small: 22" (56 cm) — cast on 100 sts (5 pattern repeats)
• Medium: 24" (61 cm) — cast on 120 sts (6 repeats) (sample shown)
• Large: 26" (66 cm) — cast on 140 sts (7 repeats)

Materials

• Yarn: Worsted/Aran weight. Small: 250 yards (228 m). Medium: 300 yards (274 m). Large: 350 yards (320 m). (Imperial and Metric included)
• Needles: 16" (40 cm) or longer circulars, or length of your choice for small circumference
  Ribbing needle: US 6 / UK (old) 8 / 4.0 mm
  Body needle: US 7 / UK (old) 7 / 4.5 mm
• Cable needle (or spare dpn), stitch marker, tapestry needle, waste yarn for provisional cast-on (optional)

Gauge

18 sts x 24 rounds = 4" (10 cm) in stockinette on needle US 7 (4.5 mm). Adjust needle size to match gauge.

Abbreviations

• K: knit
• P: purl
• st(s): stitch(es)
• rnd: round
• C4F: slip next 2 sts to cable needle and hold in front, k2, then k2 from cable needle
• C4B: slip next 2 sts to cable needle and hold in back, k2, then k2 from cable needle
• CO: cast on
• BO: bind off

Notes

• Pattern repeat is 20 sts. Choose cast-on count that is a multiple of 20 for desired circumference.
• Cables are worked in the round so every row is a right-side round; cable crossing instructions assume you are looking at the right side.
• The "disappearing" effect comes from alternating left- and right-leaning crossings so the diamond outlines open and then close over the repeat.

Pattern

All rounds are worked in the round unless otherwise specified.

Cast-on and setup

1. CO required number of sts using a stretchy cast-on (long-tail recommended). Join to work in the round, taking care not to twist. Place a marker for beginning of rnd.
2. With smaller needle (US 6 / 4.0 mm) work K2, P2 rib for 1.5" (4 cm).
3. Change to larger needle (US 7 / 4.5 mm) and begin diamond cable pattern.

Diamond Cable Pattern (20-st repeat, 12-round motif — repeat these 12 rounds for the body; you may repeat the 12-round sequence until the cowl height suits you)

Round 1: *K2, P4, K8, P4* , K2  (repeat to end of rnd)
Round 2: *K2, P4, K8, P4* , K2
Round 3: *K2, P4, C4B, C4F, P4* , K2
Round 4: *K2, P4, K8, P4* , K2
Round 5: *K2, P4, K8, P4* , K2
Round 6: *K2, P4, C4F, C4B, P4* , K2
Round 7: *K2, P4, K8, P4* , K2
Round 8: *K2, P4, K8, P4* , K2
Round 9: *K2, P4, C4B, C4F, P4* , K2
Round10: *K2, P4, K8, P4* , K2
Round11: *K2, P4, K8, P4* , K2
Round12: *K2, P4, C4F, C4B, P4* , K2

Notes on the rounds:

• Each "K8" segment is the un-crossed cable base; the C4B/C4F pairs are the moments the cables cross to shift the strands and create the diamond outline.
• The sequence alternates C4B then C4F and later C4F then C4B to make cables lean toward and then away from the center of each diamond, giving the appearance of diamonds forming and then sinking back into the background.

Body

1. Work Rounds 1–12 as written. Repeat Rounds 1–12 until the body of the cowl measures 9" (23 cm) from the cast-on edge (or desired height). For a taller cowl, repeat more pattern sets.

Finish

1. Switch to smaller needles (US 6 / 4.0 mm). Work K2, P2 rib for 1.5" (4 cm).
2. BO loosely in rib pattern. Weave in ends. Block gently to even the stitches — a light steam or wet block that relaxes the stitches will make the diamonds open more clearly.

Optional adjustments

• Make a brim by working extra ribbing before joining (provisional cast-on) for a folded hem; then graft live stitches to the provisional edge for a polished finish.
• To turn this into a scarf or short cowl, simply work flat (back-and-forth) — convert the round repeats to rows by working WS rows in pattern as written (reverse stitch textures where needed).

Techniques & Tips

• Keep cable needle stitches snug but not tight — cables look best when consistent tension is maintained.
• If you want more pronounced diamonds, block slightly more aggressively (but don’t over-stretch).
• Marker placement: For multi-panel work, place a marker after each 20-st repeat to help track cable crosses.

Yarn & Needle Summary (quick reference)

• Yarn: Worsted/Aran — Small 250 yds / 228 m; Medium 300 yds / 274 m; Large 350 yds / 320 m.
• Needles: Ribbing US 6 / UK (old) 8 / 4.0 mm; Body US 7 / UK (old) 7 / 4.5 mm.

Care

Hand wash or machine wash gentle on cool; lay flat to dry. Avoid tumble drying to keep cables crisp.

Support

Pattern and support at https://purljam.verde.uk — email team@verde.uk for help. Share your makes with #purljam.

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