Easy Eyelet Baby Cardigan - knitted in pieces
Simple, cute and beginner-friendly baby cardigan worked flat in separate pieces (back, two fronts, two sleeves) and seamed. The body uses an easy vertical eyelet pattern (k1, yo, k2tog) that looks lacy but is easy to memorize. Sizes and full shaping provided; pick the size, follow stitch counts and row counts. Website: purljam.verde.uk • Support: team@verde.uk • Socials: #purljam
Materials
- Yarn: DK / 8-ply (light worsted). Soft baby yarn recommended (superwash or cotton blend for easy care).
- Yardage (approx):
- Newborn: 150 yds (137 m)
- 0–3 months: 200 yds (183 m)
- 3–6 months: 225 yds (206 m)
- 6–12 months: 275 yds (251 m)
- 12–18 months: 325 yds (297 m)
- Needles (straight needles for flat knitting):
- Main needles: US 6 / UK 4 / 4.0 mm
- Smaller needles for ribbing: US 5 / UK 5 / 3.75 mm
- Notions: 4–5 small buttons (12–15 mm) depending on size, tapestry needle, stitch markers, scrap yarn or holders for sleeve/neck.
Finished measurements (approx)
- Newborn: chest 16" (40.5 cm)
- 0–3 months: chest 18" (45.5 cm)
- 3–6 months: chest 20" (51 cm)
- 6–12 months: chest 22" (56 cm)
- 12–18 months: chest 24" (61 cm)
Gauge
22 sts x 30 rows = 4" (10 cm) in stockinette on larger needles (US 6 / 4.0 mm). Rows per inch ~ 7.5. Always swatch and adjust needle size to match gauge.
Abbreviations (US)
- k = knit
- p = purl
- yo = yarn over
- k2tog = knit two together (right-leaning decrease)
- ssk = slip, slip, knit (left-leaning decrease)
- RS = right side
- WS = wrong side
- CO = cast on
- BO = bind off
Eyelet stitch (repeat)
Worked over a multiple of 3 + 2 edge sts.
Row 1 (RS): k1, *yo, k2tog, k1; rep from * across to last st, k1.
Row 2 (WS): purl across.
Repeat these 2 rows for the eyelet vertical columns.
Notes
- Pattern is knit flat in pieces. Seams are worked with mattress stitch. Collar is picked up and knitted after seaming.
- Measurements and stitch counts below are given for five sizes: Newborn (0–3m, 3–6m, 6–12m, 12–18m). Numbers are shown in order; if only one number appears it applies to all sizes.
Stitch counts for pieces
- Back CO (sts): 44, 50, 56, 62, 68
- Each Front CO (sts): 22, 25, 27, 30, 32
- Sleeve cuff CO (sts): 36, 39, 42, 45, 48
Body instructions — Back
- Using smaller needles (US 5 / 3.75 mm), CO the number of sts for your size (see counts above).
- Work 1x1 rib (k1, p1) for 1" (2.5 cm) for newborn; 1¼" (3 cm) for 0–3m; 1½" (4 cm) for 3–6m; 1¾" (4.5 cm) for 6–12m; 2" (5 cm) for 12–18m.
- Change to larger needles (US 6 / 4.0 mm). Begin eyelet stitch pattern with 1 edge stitch in garter/selvedge if you prefer, or simply continue pattern across. For neat edges, you can k1 at each end on every RS row and p1 on WS rows.
- Work in eyelet stitch until piece measures from cast-on edge to underarm (where armhole starts): approx 6½" (7", 8", 9", 10") respectively measured on finished piece. In rows (approx) this is 49, 53, 60, 68, 75 rows. Adjust length to taste.
- Armhole: for this easy version we keep shoulders rectangular. When desired armhole depth is reached, BO all sts knitwise. (If you prefer shoulder shaping you may bind off a small number of sts at each side and continue shoulders separately.)
Body instructions — Fronts (make 2)
- Using smaller needles CO sts for chosen size (see counts above). Work the same rib as back for the same distance.
- Change to larger needles and work eyelet pattern. Work until front measures same length as back to underarm (match row count).
- Shape front opening: continue pattern and BO all sts at the same armhole depth as the back (rectangular shoulders). Optionally leave an extra 6–8 sts at the right front for a button band (you can graft or pick up later); this pattern assumes buttons are sewn on top of a picked-up band so no extra stitch is required at CO — pick up for button band later.
Sleeves (make 2)
- Using smaller needles CO cuff sts for your size (36, 39, 42, 45, 48).
- Work 1x1 rib for 1" (1¼", 1½", 1¾", 2") respectively to match body cuff depth.
- Change to larger needles and begin eyelet pattern, placing a marker at the beginning of round/row for reference. Stitches are worked flat—maintain edge sts as desired.
- Increase for sleeve as follows: Work 2" (2¼", 2½", 3", 3½") of eyelet pattern, increasing 1 st at each end every 8th row until you have added total 6, 6, 8, 10, 12 sts respectively (adjust spacing so increases are even). Example newborn: increase 3 times each side = +6 sts → 42 sts total.
- Continue until sleeve length from cuff to underarm measures approx 5½" (6", 6½", 7½", 8") respectively (rows approx 41, 45, 49, 56, 60). End with WS row.
- Bind off all sts knitwise (or leave on holder to seam). When seamed into armhole the sleeve top will shape with ease into the body opening.
Collar and Button Band
- With RS facing and smaller needles pick up stitches evenly along right front edge, across back neck, and down left front edge. Pick up approximately 1 stitch for every row (adjust slightly to avoid puckering). Typical total picked-up sts will be ~ (front edge sts + back neck + front edge) = 60–80 depending on size.
- Work 1x1 rib in the round or flat (if flat, turn at ends) for 1"–1½" depending on desired collar height. For a simple band: k1, p1 back and forth across; for a stand: work more rows.
- If you worked the band flat, BO in rib. Sew ends of collar neatly to form neckline. Buttons will be sewn to one front; on the other front pick small buttonholes into the band by binding off 2 sts and casting them on next row, or simply sew buttons onto band and use made button loops from yarn.
Finishing
- Block pieces lightly: dampen and pin to measurements to relax stitch and open eyelets.
- Seam shoulders and sides with mattress stitch. Insert sleeves to match underarm seam and sew using mattress stitch. Tack sleeve heads lightly to ease if necessary.
- Weave in ends. Add buttons evenly spaced on the right front (approx every 2–2½"/5–6 cm); make buttonholes on the left front band if you didn’t make them while knitting the band.
Button placement guide (approx)
- Place top button ~1" (2.5 cm) below collar. Space remaining buttons evenly down the front — typically 3 buttons for newborn up to 5 for 12–18 months.
Tips & modifications
- For neater edges, add a slipped selvedge: slip first stitch purlwise and knit last stitch on RS rows.
- To make a sweater with more shaping, follow standard armhole and shoulder shaping recipes for your size instead of binding off all stitches at once.
- Use contrast yarn for the collar or cuffs for a custom look.
Troubleshooting
- If eyelets are too large, try one needle size smaller for the body only; if too tight, go up a needle size.
- Check button spacing by pinning fronts together before sewing buttons.
If you need help converting stitch counts to a different gauge or want a custom size, please ask for a gauge-adjusted version. For support: team@verde.uk. More patterns: purljam.verde.uk. Socials: #purljam
Created by purlJam with the help of magic AI dust. Shop Verde for patterns and yarn.
Disclaimer: Enjoy the fun! Accuracy of patterns cannot be guaranteed. Remember to use and share content responsibly when engaging with this AI-powered app.