A detailed, customizable cuff-down sock pattern worked in fingering/sock weight yarn. Written for DPNs, 2 circulars (magic loop) or 4-circ method. Includes full needle conversions (US, UK old, metric) and yarn yardage in imperial and metric. Fits a range of adult sizes; notes explain how to adjust for a perfect fit.
32 sts = 4 inches / 10 cm in stockinette (fingering yarn) using chosen needles (approximately 8 sts per inch / 3.15 sts per cm). Before starting, swatch in the round or flat and block to check gauge. Adjust needle size to reach gauge.
These cast-on numbers assume the stated gauge (8 sts/in). To customize, multiply desired foot circumference (in inches) by your stitches-per-inch to get CO stitches; keep CO divisible by 4 for this pattern's rib and heel shaping.
CO 56 (64, 72, 80) sts. Join carefully not twisting and mark beginning of round.
Rib: *k2, p2* around for 1.5 in / 4 cm (or desired cuff length). You may do 2x2 rib or 1x1 rib if you prefer a flatter cuff.
Work in stockinette (knit all sts) or in pattern: *k2, p2* rib panel for 6 in / 15 cm (or desired leg length) finishing when you have completed a whole round at the front of leg.
Work heel flap over half the stitches (heel sts): 28 (32, 36, 40). Position needles so heel stitches are on two needles if using DPNs, or on the back half of the circular.
Row 1 (RS): *sl 1 wyif, k1* across heel sts.
Row 2 (WS): sl 1 wyib, p across heel sts.
Repeat these 2 rows until heel flap measures approximately 2.25 in / 5.5 cm (or until you have worked about 1.5 times the foot depth; typical row count ~ 28 (32, 36, 40) rows depending on row gauge). End on a WS row.
Work short-row shaping over the center of the heel flap to form the cup.
Set-up row (RS): k across first 17 (19, 20, 22) sts of the heel flap, k2tog, k1, turn.
WS: sl1 wyib, p across to 1 st before center, p2tog, p1, turn.
RS: sl1 wyif, k across to 1 st before previous decrease, k2tog, k1, turn.
Repeat these 2 rows, working one fewer stitch before the decreases every time until all heel sts have been worked into a rounded heel cup with about 17 (19, 20, 22) center stitches remaining (you will have a small number of unworked sts at ends). Finish after a WS row.
Place the unworked stitches of the sole on hold or on a needle. Set-up for gusset as follows:
On the instep needle(s) you still have 28 (32, 36, 40) sts. On the sole needle(s) you have 28 (32, 36, 40) sts.
Pick up and knit along the edge of the heel flap: pick up 14 (16, 18, 20) sts along one side, knit across sole sts, pick up 14 (16, 18, 20) sts along the other side. You will now have 56 (64, 72, 80) sts total again but distributed as: instep stitches, picked-up stitches, sole stitches, picked-up stitches. Place markers to indicate new needle boundaries. Note: When picking up along the slipped-stitch edge, pick up 1 stitch for every slipped stitch to avoid gaps.
Rounds:
Round 1: On gusset rounds, work across instep stitches in pattern (k2, p2 rib or stockinette) keeping instep as before. On sole needles: knit to 3 sts before gusset marker, k2tog, k1. On opposite gusset: k1, ssk, knit remaining.
Repeat these decreases every other round until you are back to original number of stitches (56, 64, 72, 80) — i.e., decreases total equal the number of picked-up stitches. Typically work decreases until sole needle returns to original count. After gusset decreases are complete, continue knitting in the round without decreases.
Knit rounds until foot measures approximately 2 in / 5 cm less than desired total foot length (from back of heel to tip of toe). Example lengths from back of heel to toe (approx): S 8.5 in / 21.5 cm, M 9.5 in / 24 cm, L 10.5 in / 26.5 cm, XL 11.5 in / 29 cm. Stop 2 in / 5 cm before these lengths to begin the toe.
Arrange sock so toe decreases are centered on two needles. For square number of needles follow this sequence:
Round 1: On needle 1: knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. On needle 2: k1, ssk, knit to end. On needle 3: knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. On needle 4: k1, ssk, knit to end.
Round 2: knit all sts.
Repeat Rounds 1-2 until 16 (16, 20, 20) sts remain total. Adjust so final stitches are evenly distributed on two needles for grafting (for small/medium you may aim for 8 sts per needle; for large sizes 10 sts per needle etc.).
Cut yarn leaving a 8-10 in / 20-25 cm tail. Thread tail on tapestry needle and graft toe closed using Kitchener stitch. Weave in ends. Lightly block sock and shape.
You can use DPNs, magic loop (one long circular), or 4-circulars. For magic loop move the gap as needed; decreases and markers remain identical. If using smaller needles to reach gauge, expect a denser fabric and slightly smaller fit.
Wash according to yarn label (superwash can go in machine on gentle; non-superwash wool should be hand-washed and dried flat). Turn socks inside out before washing to reduce pilling. Reinforce toe and heel with duplicate stitch if desired.
Pattern by PurlJam. For full pattern support or questions contact team@verde.uk or visit the website at purljam.verde.uk. Share makes and questions on socials with the tag #purljam.