Fairy Dress for 19cm Silicone Doll (Knit + Crochet)

Detailed, small-scale pattern for a delicate fairy dress to fit a 19cm (7.5in) silicone doll. Includes knitting and crochet versions, optional wings and finishing notes. Recommended for intermediate knitters/crocheters comfortable working very small needles/hooks and tiny stitch counts. Measure your doll before starting and read the full pattern through.

Finished measurements (approx.)

Height (shoulder to hem): 5.0cm (2.0in) skirt length + 4.5cm (1.8in) bodice = ~9.5cm (3.8in) total dress length from shoulder.
Bust/chest circumference: 11.2cm (4.4in) (constructed to sit close to the doll — allow adjustments below)
Waist circumference: 9.6cm (3.8in)

Materials

Yarn: Fingering/sock weight yarn (recommended) OR sport/DK as alternate.
- Recommended: Fingering (4-ply) — approx 25 yards / 23 metres (10g) main color; contrast/embellishment 5-10 yards / 5-9 metres. Weight/metric: 25yds (23m) ~10g.
- Alternate: Sport/DK — approx 15-20 yards / 14-18 metres (10g).
Knitting needles: small circular or DPNs for tiny circumference, or preferred small straight needles for flat work.
- Recommended size (knitting): US 3 / UK 11 / 3.25mm (for fingering)
- Alternate: US 4 / UK 10 / 3.5mm (if using thicker sport/DK yarn; adjust gauge and stitch counts)
Crochet hook (if crocheting): 2.5mm (US B-1) for tighter fabric with fingering yarn, or 3.0-3.5mm for sport/DK.
Notions: tapestry needle, small sewing needle and thread, tiny snap/button or a 5-6cm length of narrow ribbon/Velcro for back closure, small beads/seed beads or sequins for decoration, optional thin ribbon for waist bow, blocking pins or shaping surface.
Optional: lightweight craft wire (for wired fairy wings), organza or tulle for wing decoration.

Needle/Hook Size Quick Reference

Knitting: US 3 / UK 11 / 3.25 mm (recommended), Alternate US 4 / UK 10 / 3.5 mm
Crochet: US B-1 / 2.25 mm for very fine, or 2.5mm/3.0mm depending on yarn. (Use a hook that produces a fabric that matches the stitch gauge guidance below.)

Gauge

For knitted version (stockinette in-the-round): 28 sts = 10 cm (4in) and 36 rounds = 10 cm (4in) measured on 3.25mm needles with fingering yarn. Make a small swatch and measure carefully — gauge impacts final fit significantly at this scale. For crochet, aim for ~7-8 sc = 2.5cm (1in) as a visual guide; adjust hook if necessary.

Abbreviations (US knitting/Crochet)

K = knit, P = purl, k2tog = knit 2 together, p2tog = purl 2 together, inc = increase (kfb or m1 as specified), CO = cast on, BO = bind off, st(s) = stitch(es), rnd = round, RS = right side, WS = wrong side.
Crochet: ch = chain, sc = single crochet, hdc = half double crochet, dc = double crochet, sl st = slip stitch, st(s) = stitch(es), sk = skip.

Notes and fitting

This pattern is written to fit a 19cm silicone doll and has small stitch counts. If your doll is slightly different, measure chest circumference. Use the gauge to calculate cast-on: desired chest circumference (cm) x (stitches per cm from your swatch) = target stitches. Cast on a multiple appropriate to stitch pattern if needed.

Knit Version (worked in the round; strap or strapless option)

Bodice (in-the-round)

Cast on 32 sts with long-tail or preferred provisional cast-on. Join carefully to work in the round, placing marker for beginning of round. (32 sts gives approx 11.4cm circumference at 28 sts/10cm. Adjust +/- 2 sts for tighter/looser fit.)

Rounds 1-6: *K1, P1* rib for 6 rounds to create neat edge.
Rounds 7-18: Knit every round (stockinette in the round) until bodice measures approx 3.5cm from cast-on edge (about 12 rounds — adjust to sit under doll\'s arms).
Optional shaping for waist: Round 19: *K6, k2tog* repeat to end (32->28 sts). Work 2 rounds even. This gives a slight waist shaping. If you prefer no shaping, skip decreases and continue.

Option A: Strapless back opening (easy closure)

Break yarn, leave long tail. Fold back edge and mattress stitch 1cm down the back to create a clean seam but leave a small gap at the top for a snap or ribbon closure (or leave entire back unseamed to add snaps later).
Gently block on doll to shape.

Option B: Shoulder straps (recommended for secure fit)

After bodice height reached (before any waist decreases), place 8 sts on holder for front left strap, next 16 sts for front centre (or continue pattern), next 8 sts on holder for front right strap — alternative: work back and forth to form strap sections: Work across first 8 sts in garter stitch for 6 rows to make strap width approx 0.5cm, attach to back with small stitch or button.
A simpler strap: pick up 8 sts evenly across front shoulders and knit I-cord or 6 rounds of k1,p1 to make a narrow strap approx 1.5cm long; attach to back with small stitch or button.

Skirt (attached directly to bodice)

With RS facing, pick up all stitches around bodice lower edge (or continue if you did not bind off). If you decreased for waist, increase for skirt flare:
- Round 1 (increase round): *K1, kfb* repeat to end — doubling stitches from 28 to 56 (or from 32 to 64 depending on your starting sts) to create skirt fullness.
Rounds 2-10: Work 8-12 rounds of pattern for desired skirt length:
- Option plain: Knit all rounds for a smooth, gathered look.
- Option lace shell (every other round): Rnd A: *K3, yo, k2tog* repeat to end. Rnd B: Knit round. Repeat Rnd A/B for 4-6 pattern repeats until skirt measures ~5.0cm from waist (or desired length).
Next round: *K2tog* repeat to reduce and tidy hem (optional). Work 4 rounds of k1,p1 rib for a rolled, neat hem, then bind off loosely in rib (if working flat) or bind off in pattern if working in-the-round using a stretchy bind-off method.

Finishing (knit)

Weave in ends. Gently block to shape skirt. Add tiny snap at back or sew a small button and loop of thread or ribbon closure. Add beads/embellishments by sewing tiny seed beads along bodice or hem.
Make a narrow ribbon belt: tie around waist and fix at back with a drop of glue or a few tiny stitches.

Crochet Version

Bodice (worked in rounds)

With 2.5mm hook and fingering yarn, ch 20 and join to work in rounds carefully without twisting to form a small ring that fits the doll\'s chest snugly (adjust ch to measure around chest minus 0.5-1cm ease). OR use a magic ring and sc rounds increasing until ring measures chest circumference / sc gauge. (Aim for about 30-32 sc around based on gauge.)
Rounds 1-4: sc around in each stitch, join with sl st. (This builds the bodice height.)
Round 5: *Sc 3, sc2tog* repeat to end if you want slight shaping; otherwise sc evenly for 2-3 rounds until bodice height ~3.5cm.

Straps (crochet)

Ch 20 (or enough to comfortably fit from front to back across shoulder), sc back across chain, attach to back with sl st. Make a second strap opposite. Alternatively make two I-cord straps or chains and knot inside for a tidy finish.

Skirt (crochet shells)

Increase for skirt fullness: Round 1 (increase round): *Sc in next st, 3 dc in next st (shell made), sc in next st* repeat around. This will expand the skirt by adding shells evenly.
Rounds 2-6: Repeat shell round or do alternating rounds of sc and shell to create fullness. Stop when skirt length ~5.0cm from waist.
Last round: Sc evenly and sl st to finish; fasten off leaving tail to weave in.

Optional Crochet Wings

Small simple butterfly wings: make two identical pieces per wing or 4 pieces total for a layered look.

Ch 6, sc in 2nd ch from hook, hdc in next, dc in next, 3 dc in last chain turn to work along opposite side of chain: dc, hdc, sc. Sl st to join. Fasten off and seam two wing shapes together with a small amount of padding (thin felt) in between or wire frame inside for shaping. Cover wire with yarn and sew to back of bodice with tiny stitches.

Embellishments & Styling

Seed beads sewn along the skirt hem and bodice for sparkle (use thin beading thread and a small beading needle).
Tulle overlay: cut a small rectangle of tulle twice the width of skirt, gather with running stitch, sew to waist inside skirt to create a layered fairy look.
Ribbon bows: tiny 1-1.5cm ribbon bows stitched to shoulders or waist.
Painted or glued sequins: use fabric glue for tiny sequins if you prefer not to sew.

Assembly & Finishing Tips

Always try the garment on the doll during construction — at this scale small adjustments matter. If bodice is too loose, pick up fewer stitches or work the next size down; if too tight, add 2-4 sts.
Use a small stitch marker or contrasting scrap to mark the back center for placing closures symmetrically.
Weave in ends to the inside of the dress; trim close but not flush to avoid unraveling. Use a tiny dab of clear-drying fabric glue on knots if desired.

Care

Hand wash gently in cool water with mild detergent. Reshape and dry flat. Avoid heat on silicone doll and avoid long-term moisture contact.

Alterations for different looks

Longer skirt: increase rounds of skirt pattern to desired length. Add more increases for extra fullness.
Sleeves: pick up sts at arm openings and work 6-8 rounds of stockinette or sc for cap sleeves.

Pattern written for purljam patterns: visit https://purljam.verde.uk for more tiny-doll designs. For support email: team@verde.uk. Share your makes on socials with #purljam.

Notes: This pattern is intended for personal use. If you publish photos or a blog post, please credit purljam at the link above.

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