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purlJam

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Flowy Multi-Tiered Gypsy Skirt (Crochet)

Designed for easy customization and dramatic, floaty tiers. Worked in the round from the waist down with an elastic casing, this skirt has three full tiers with decorative shell and V-stitch details for a bohemian, gypsy look. Sizes S (M, L, XL, XXL). Finished lengths are customizable — default is knee/midi length shown below.

Materials

Gauge

16 dc (US double crochet) x 7 rounds = 4" / 10 cm using 5.0 mm hook. IMPORTANT: gauge controls skirt circumference. Measure your gauge and adjust starting chain to fit your waist using the calculations below.

Finished Measurements & Size Table

These are finished circumferences with elastic at the waist producing comfortable negative/positive ease depending on desired fit. Adjust length freely by adding or subtracting rounds in the tiers.

Abbreviations (US terms)

Notes & Construction Overview

This skirt is worked in continuous joined rounds (or spiral rounds if you prefer a seam-free look). You will create an elastic casing at the top (worked in sc ribbing), then work three tiers: Tier 1 to reach hip circumference, Tier 2 to add swing, and Tier 3 to create the fullest, most decorative lower panel. Increases are worked evenly across rounds rather than shaping, creating a smooth flare. The pattern gives exact stitch counts based on the gauge above; if your gauge differs, use the math described below to calculate starting stitches and increase totals.

Calculations (how to size)

Using gauge: 16 dc = 4" so stitches per inch = 4. To get your starting waist stitch count: Waist circumference (in inches) x stitches-per-inch = starting stitches. Example S: 26" x 4 = 104 sts. To reach hip target: Hip inches x stitches-per-inch = hip stitch target. Increase evenly over the following rounds to get from waist st count to hip st count.

Pattern (All Sizes given: S (M, L, XL, XXL). When numbers differ they are shown in parentheses.)

Waistband / Elastic Casing

  1. Using 5.0 mm hook and yarn, make a foundation chain of: S 104 (M 120, L 136, XL 152, XXL 168) chains. Join with sl st to first ch, making sure chain is not twisted. Place marker at start.
  2. Round 1: ch 1 (does not count), sc in each ch around. Join with sl st to first sc. (This creates a neat edge.)
  3. Rounds 2–7: ch 1, BLO (back loop only) sc in each st around. Join with sl st. Repeat until you have 6 rounds total of sc ribs (about 1"/2.5 cm depth). You can make 8–10 rounds for a deeper casing if you prefer.
  4. Leave a 2.5"/6 cm opening in the casing seam for inserting elastic later. Mark this opening with a removable marker.

Transition to Body

  1. Round 1 (body start): Join main round with ch 2 (counts as first dc), dc in each st around; join with sl st to top of ch-2. (Keep the same stitch count as foundation chain.)

Tier 1: Rising to Hip

Objective: increase evenly until hip stitch target is reached. Hip stitch targets: S 144 (M 160, L 176, XL 192, XXL 208).

  1. Work even dc rounds, increasing evenly as follows: Increase 5 (5, 6, 6, 7) sts each round for 8 rounds, then re-evaluate counts. (Example S: 104 + (5 x 8) = 144.) To work increases evenly across a round: calculate spacing = total stitches / number of increases, then place an extra dc where needed to spread increases evenly. Practically: count approximate intervals and place an inc (2 dc in one st) every ~X sts.
  2. After increases are complete, work rounds of dc without increases until Tier 1 depth is 6" / 15 cm from the bottom of the casing (or preferred depth). This forms a gentle hip shaping.

Tier 2: Fullness and Shell Motif

Change to shell motif for visual interest and added swing.

  1. Round 1: Switch to shell pattern. Shell = (2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc) in same st. Work shell in every Nth stitch so shells are spaced; typical repeat: *skip 2 sts, shell in next st, skip 2 sts, sc in next st* depending on stitch multiple. To simplify: you will increase until the circumference for Tier 2 is roughly 1.5 times the hip circumference. That means increase counts from hip target to Tier2 target: multiply current stitch count by 1.5 (round to nearest whole st) and increase evenly across the first 6 rounds of Tier 2 to reach that count.
  2. Work shell rows for 5–7" / 12–18 cm or until desired placement; maintain shells staggered every other round for texture if desired.

Tier 3: Maximum Flare and Lace

Make the final tier the fullest. This tier uses lace V-stitch rows and larger shells to give dramatic fall.

  1. Round 1: Begin increase rounds to bring circumference to ~2.5x hip (this gives a wide gypsy skirt drape). Increase evenly over 6–8 rounds until stitch count reaches target (calculate 2.5 x hip stitches).
  2. Work V-stitch pattern for 6–12" / 15–30 cm, or until overall skirt length reaches your preferred measure. V-stitch (US): *dc, ch 1, dc in same st* (or dc, ch 1, dc in next st for open fabric). Alternate with rounds of larger shells: (3 dc, ch1, 3 dc) in one st to accent hems.
  3. Finish with 2–3 rounds of sc to stabilize hem, or make a decorative scallop by doing one shell round and a final sl st round.

Finishing

  1. Weave in ends.
  2. Insert elastic: measure elastic to fit snugly around wearer’s waist (stretch slightly for comfort). Thread elastic through casing, overlap ends by 1/2" and stitch securely with needle and strong thread, or zig-zag stitch by machine on overlap if desired. Close opening neatly with sc or whipstitch.
  3. Block lightly if needed to open lace and smooth shells. Don’t overstretch elastic casing while blocking.

Stitch Count Checkpoints (based on gauge)

Start (waist): S 104 (M 120, L 136, XL 152, XXL 168). Hip target: S 144 (M 160, L 176, XL 192, XXL 208). Tier2 target approx 1.5x hip: S 216 (M 240, L 264, XL 288, XXL 312). Tier3 target approx 2.5x hip: S 360 (M 400, L 440, XL 480, XXL 520). Actual counts depend on spacing choices when converting to shell/V-stitch multiples; always round to a multiple compatible with the chosen stitch pattern.

Customization Ideas

Troubleshooting

Care

Block gently if needed. Handwash recommended for natural fibers; machine wash cold on gentle cycle if yarn allows and elastic is washable. Dry flat to retain shape. If using an elastic that is not machine-safe, handwash only.


Pattern by PurlJam. For support or questions: visit https://purljam.verde.uk or email team@verde.uk. Share your makes with #purljam.


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