Relaxed, boxy drop-shoulder cardigan worked in garter stitch (knit every row). This pattern is written for a 48” finished chest. The construction is intentionally simple: two front panels and one back panel knitted flat to the same length (rectangles), then seamed at the shoulders and sides to create a shallow drop shoulder. Buttonbands are picked up and worked in garter stitch. All measurements approximate; adjust length/ease to taste.
Garter stitch gauge: 18 sts & 32 rows = 4” (10 cm) measured flat (measure across ridges). This is the gauge used for the stitch counts below. If your gauge differs, adjust total cast-on stitches using 4.5 sts/inch (approx) as a working figure.
You will work three flat rectangular pieces to the same finished length: Right Front, Back, Left Front. The pieces are seamed together at the shoulders (only the outermost 3” of each shoulder is seamed) and along the sides down from the hem, leaving a shallow armhole for drop-shoulder sleeves. Sleeves are worked separately and seamed into the opening. Buttonbands are picked up and worked in garter stitch along the two front edges and neckline.
Using US 8 / 5.0 mm circular needle, CO 54 sts for Right Front. Place a marker (or use a stitch holder), CO 108 sts for Back, place marker, CO 54 sts for Left Front. You now have 216 sts on the needle worked flat.
Work garter stitch (knit every row) across all 216 sts until piece measures 18” from cast-on edge, ending after a wrong-side row. If you prefer a shorter or longer body, work to desired length; the instructions for finishing assume 18”.
When your piece measures the desired length, BO all stitches loosely, or instead place each panel’s sts onto waste yarn or stitch holders: transfer first 54 sts to a holder (Right Front), next 108 sts to a holder (Back), last 54 sts to a holder (Left Front). You will finish each panel to the same length if you used separate holders; if you BOed, you already have three rectangles ready for finishing.
These sleeves are worked flat and set in; they are designed to be slightly wider at the sleeve head for comfortable arm movement in a drop-shoulder style.
1) Using US 8 / 5.0 mm needles, CO 44 sts for cuff (this gives a relaxed cuff circumference of approx 9.75”; if you want a tighter cuff, cast on 36–40 sts). Work in garter stitch for 2.5” (about 20 ridges).
2) Increase row: K1, M1, knit to last stitch, M1, K1. (2 sts increased) Repeat increase row every 1.5” until sleeve measures 14” from cuff (or until sleeve width at underarm equals approx 20” circumference divided by gauge — aim for ~90 sts total around the upper sleeve at our gauge, which means about 45 sts flat if working one side at a time; in this flat sleeve pattern you should finish with approx 88–92 sts before the last cuff if you started with 44). Note: If you prefer a simpler route, instead of increasing, cast on a larger number initially (e.g., CO 88 sts) and work straight to desired length. 3) When sleeve reaches desired length from cuff to underarm (approx 18” total sleeve length for a long sleeve; for 3/4 length work to 14”), BO all stitches loosely.
Blocking: Lightly wet-block or steam pieces to measurements before seaming; garter stitch relaxes and evens out with blocking.
Shoulder seaming: With RS together, align the top edges of front and back panels. Measure 3” in from each armhole/edge and sew those outer 3” of the top edge of each front to the corresponding 3” of the back’s top edge, leaving the center top edges open to create the neck. This yields a shallow neck opening appropriate for a casual drop-shoulder cardigan. Use mattress stitch for an invisible join. If you prefer narrower or wider shoulder seams, adjust the 3” to taste (wider seams raise the neck opening, narrower seams lower it).
Side seaming: With RS together, seam from hem up the side for the desired body side length, leaving the armhole opening. For a drop shoulder look leave an opening of 7–8” from the shoulder seam downward (so seam from hem up to approx 10”–11”, leaving the upper 7–8” un-seamed for the sleeve opening). Adjust if your body length differs.
Set sleeves: Flatten sleeve top and align the sleeve top center with the shoulder seam; ease sleeve cap into the shallow armhole opening and seam around with mattress stitch. Because the armhole is a shallow drop shoulder, there will be little or no need for shaping; simply ease and distribute fullness evenly.
With RS facing and using US 8 / 5.0 mm circular (or straight needles), pick up and knit 1 stitch for every bound-off/bare edge stitch plus 1 stitch for each ridge (optional) along the right front edge from hem to neck, then continue around the back neck picking up evenly across the back neck opening, and down the left front edge, picking up the same number of stitches so the two front bands match. Typical pickup: pick up about 1 stitch for every bound-off stitch; pick up slightly more across the curved neck to avoid gaping.
Work garter stitch across these picked-up sts for 1–2” (or to desired band width). For buttonholes: On the right front band, make horizontal buttonholes spaced evenly. Example buttonhole row: (RS) Work garter ridges, at the position for each buttonhole K2tog, YO (or BO 2 and CO2 next row) to make a neat opening. Space 5–6 buttons evenly down the band depending on band length. Continue until band width is complete, then BO loosely in pattern.
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Enjoy your knitting! If you need a graded multi-size version or measurements adjusted to a different finished chest, ask for a size chart and I’ll calculate the stitch counts and lengths for each size.