Modern, wearable crochet haori inspired by Giyu Tomioka’s silhouette: long open-front coat with one side patterned and one side solid, and dramatic flared sleeves. This pattern is written for intermediate crocheters familiar with colorwork (intarsia/tapestry) and seaming. Adjust gauge or hook for different drape.
Giyu’s haori visually pairs a plain dark blue/teal side with a patterned side. This pattern uses a rectangular geometric repeat (simplified motif) on the right panel. You can substitute tapestry crochet squares or small granny-square appliques if you prefer modular assembly.
Work back panel flat in rows. Pattern uses HDC for body to keep drape and structure.
Chain base: ch 56 (62, 68, 74) — this gives shoulder width and negative ease. Optional: adjust multiples of 2 for pattern symmetry.
Row 1 (RS): hdc in 3rd ch from hook (counts as first hdc), hdc across to last ch, 2 hdc in last ch — rotate and continue on opposite edge to work one turning ch at edge if you prefer; 54 (60, 66, 72) hdc total. Ch 2, turn.
Rows 2–160 (or until desired length minus 10 rows for collar): hdc in each st across, ch 2, turn. For S work 160 rows; M 165 rows; L 170 rows; XL 175 rows. (Adjust to reach finished length noted above.)
Optional waist shaping: To subtly shape, dec 1 st each side every 40 rows once or twice.
Right panel is worked to the same length as the back, and same height for shoulder seam. Pattern repeats across width; use intarsia/tapestry.
Chain base: ch 28 (31, 34, 37) — half the back width approximately (front panels each about half back plus overlap for collar).
Row 1 (RS): hdc in 3rd ch from hook and across — 26 (29, 32, 35) hdc. Ch 2, turn.
Pattern Repeat (example motif — 10-row color block repeat simplified): The repeat block is 6 sts wide x 6 rows tall to create geometric tiles. Map your color sequence to achieve the familiar alternating shapes. A simple tile chart (left-to-right) can be built from small 6x6 blocks; join blocks horizontally by continuing across row keeping color changes as needed.
Work rows following your chosen color chart until panel matches length of back. Maintain edge 'selvage' 2 hdc in main color at outer edge for neat seam.
Chain base: same as right panel 28 (31, 34, 37) ch. Work in HDC using main color to match right panel height. Keep 2 hdc selvage at front opening edge neat for collar attachment.
Place right and left front panels on top of back aligning shoulders. Measure and determine shoulder width: leave center back for seam approach. Seam using mattress stitch or whipstitch with RS facing out, leaving neck opening of approx 7" (7.5", 8", 8.5"). Adjust according to wearer.
Worked flat top-down conceptually (flat rectangle then seam) to give full bell flare.
Chain base: ch 36 (36, 40, 44) for cuff start (measure wrist or desired upper arm circumference). Join with sl st to form ring if you prefer circular; this pattern continues flat so we work rows.
Row 1: hdc in 3rd ch and across, ch 2 turn.
Work in HDC for a cuff section 8 rows to form close cuff (more if you want fitted cuff).
Flare increases: Starting after cuff, on every 6th row increase 4 sts evenly across the row (inc by working 2 hdc in placed sts). Repeat increases on rows: 6, 12, 18, 24, 30 until sleeve hem reaches approx 26" (27", 28", 29") circumference. For S increase 5 times, M 6 times, L 7 times, XL 8 times. That should create the bell shape. Continue working until sleeve length matches armhole depth measured from seam to underarm on body (approx 9.5"–10.5"), then add desired extra length for flared drop.
Final rows: work 10 rows of shell edging (see Edging section) on sleeve hem to give gentle scallop.
Make two sleeves. Block flat and seam along sleeve length with mattress stitch. Pin sleeve into armhole opening matching center top of sleeve to shoulder seam; ease in fullness if needed and tack in place with mattress stitch.
With RS facing, join main color at bottom front neck edge. Working along the raw front edges and around the back neck, sc evenly to create a band approx 2.5" / 6.5 cm wide (adjust width to taste) — typically 8–10 rows of sc. For a softer roll, work hdc instead of sc for the final 3 rows.
Finish with 1 row shell edging around the entire hem and front opening (shell = 5 dc in same st, sk 2, sc in next; rep). This gives a decorative finish similar to haori hems.
Back panel = rectangle Width X by Length Y. Front panels = two rectangles half width. Sleeves = long tapered/flared rectangles seamed into armholes. Collar = long thin rectangle seamed around neck and front edge.
Follow yarn label. For acrylics, machine wash on gentle and lay flat to dry. For wool blends, hand wash cold and lay flat to dry. Block only if yarn can tolerate it.
Pattern created by Purljam pattern team. For support: team@verde.uk. More patterns and resources at purljam.verde.uk. Share finished photos with #purljam on socials.