Gromit Sat Down — Sitting Dog Amigurumi (Crochet) Pattern

Level: Intermediate. Finished toy: approx 9” / 23 cm tall when seated. This pattern makes a soft, seated dog with the posture suggested by the prompt “Gromit sat down.” It’s an original sitting dog pattern inspired by that image, not an exact replica of any existing character. Read the whole pattern before you begin.

Materials

• Yarn: Worsted/Aran weight (Medium/4). Recommended colours: Main body (beige/cream), muzzle/inner ear (ivory), nose/black, accents (brown). Required amount: approx 200–250 yards (183–228 m) total; typically 2 x 100 g skeins (approx 200–250 yards / 183–228 m total). Imperial/Metric note: approx 200–250 yards (183–228 meters) depending on size and tension.
• Crochet hook: Metric 3.5 mm (approx US E-4; UK old approx 9). Use a slightly smaller hook than recommended for yarn to get firm stuffing-friendly fabric.
• Knitting needles (optional alternative method pieces): Metric 4.0 mm (approx US 6; UK old approx 4) if you prefer to knit flat panels for parts — pattern gives crochet instructions primarily.
• Notions: 12 mm safety eyes (or embroider/blank/felt eyes for child-safe toy), stitch marker, tapestry needle, polyester stuffing, a little wire or pipe cleaner for optional poseable neck/legs (encased in stuffing), sewing pins, small amount of embroidery thread for nose/mouth.
• Optional: small amount of felt for pupils/eyeshades; fabric glue; card for internal support under seat if you want a stable base.

Needle/Hook Equivalents (clear list)

• Crochet hook: Metric 3.5 mm — US E-4 — UK old (approx) 9
• Knitting needles (if used): Metric 4.0 mm — US 6 — UK old (approx) 4

Note: equivalencies are approximate; follow metric sizes where possible for accuracy.

Gauge/Tension

10 sc x 10 rows = 2.5” x 2.5” (6.5 cm x 6.5 cm) in single crochet (sc) worked in continuous rounds, measured unstretched. Gauge is not critical, but a tighter gauge yields a neater, less-stretchy stuffed toy.

Abbreviations (US terms)

• ch = chain
• sc = single crochet
• inc = increase (2 sc in next st)
• dec = single crochet decrease (sc2tog)
• sl st = slip stitch
• st(s) = stitch(es)
• FO = fasten off
• MR = magic ring
• [ ] repeat instructions in brackets the number of times stated
• * ... * repeat section

Notes

• Pattern uses continuous rounds unless otherwise stated; place a marker at the first stitch of each round to keep track.
• Stuff firmly as you go to avoid lumps. Use small amounts of stuffing frequently.
• When joining parts, use mattress stitch or whipstitch invisibly and sew through stitch loops to secure firmly.

Pattern: Pieces Overview

Make the following pieces:

• Body (1): worked in two connected sections to form seated posture.
• Head (1)
• Ears (2)
• Front legs/paws (2)
• Back legs/thighs (2) — shaped to hold a seated pose
• Muzzle (1)
• Tail (1)
• Collar (optional)

Head (worked in main colour)

Use MR.

R1: MR 6 sc (6)

R2: inc around (12)

R3: (sc, inc) around (18)

R4: (2 sc, inc) around (24)

R5: (3 sc, inc) around (30)

R6–10: sc around for 5 rounds (30)

R11: (3 sc, dec) around (24)

R12: (2 sc, dec) around (18)

Insert safety eyes between R6 and R7 about 8 sts apart. Place eyes before stuffing.

R13: (sc, dec) around (12)

Stuff head firmly.

R14: dec around to 6. FO, leave long tail for sewing.

Muzzle (contrast colour)

R1: MR 6 sc (6)

R2: inc around (12)

R3–4: sc around (12) (2 rounds)

Fold muzzle slightly and sew onto lower center of head aligning center under eyes. Embroider nose with black thread: small horizontal oval centered on muzzle; add mouth lines downwards and slight curve for expression.

Ears (make 2)

Worked flat in sc, pick up stitches along straight edge and seam to head so ears sit angled back.

Ch 8.

Row1: sc in 2nd ch from hook and across (7)

Row2: ch1, turn, sc across (7)

Row3: ch1, turn, dec, sc 3, dec (5)

Row4: ch1, turn, sc across (5)

FO leaving tail for sewing. Slightly curve ear by folding and sewing base to head so ear points back.

Front Legs / Paws (make 2)

These are short so the toy can sit. Start with paw, then leg.

Paw:

R1: MR 6 sc (6)

R2: sc around (6)

R3: (sc, inc) around (9)

R4—5: sc around (9) (2 rounds)

Stuff lightly.

Leg (attach to paw):

Join main colour at back of paw.

R1: sc around 9 (9)

R2–8: sc around (9) (7 rounds)

For elbow fold, decrease 1 st at front center on R8 to create slight angle, then sc even R9–12. FO, leave tail. Sew to lower front body area sloping slightly forward so when seated paws rest on the ground.

Back Legs / Thighs (make 2)

These are larger and shaped to support the seated posture.

R1: MR 6 sc (6)

R2: inc around (12)

R3: (sc, inc) around (18)

R4–5: sc around (18) (2 rounds)

R6: (3 sc, inc) around (22)

R7–9: sc around (22) (3 rounds)

R10: (3 sc, dec) around (18)

R11–12: sc around (18) (2 rounds)

Fold at the ankle and stuff foot area more firmly; leave an open edge at top to sew to body with curve, angling leg forward slightly so the toy can sit with thighs resting and feet flat.

Tail

Ch 6, join to work in rounds (or MR 6) R1–5: sc around (6) (5 rounds) taper by decreasing every second round if you want a tapered tail. FO, stuff lightly, sew to back center low on body.

Body (seated shaping)

The body is worked in two connected sections: lower seat (flat-ish) and upper torso which narrows to the neck. Make body slightly broader at base to accommodate seated legs.

Start with a slightly flattened oval base worked in rounds (or work flat and seam). This example uses continuous rounds to make an oval base.

Base / Seat:

R1: MR 8 sc (8)

R2: (sc, inc) around (12)

R3: (2 sc, inc) around (16)

R4: (3 sc, inc) around (20)

R5: (4 sc, inc) around (24)

R6–8: sc around (24) (3 rounds)

Now shape into an oval by working partial increases at two opposite points for extra width. Mark the front and back of the seat to place openings for back legs later. R9: sc around increasing 2 sts at front and 2 sts at back (28) R10–11: sc around (28) (2 rounds)

Upper torso: R12: (4 sc, dec) around to narrow slightly (23) R13: sc around (23) R14: (3 sc, dec) around (18) R15: sc around (18) Leave top opening for neck join; stuff base firmly but leave room to insert head later. Keep seat region well-stuffed and flatten slightly so the toy sits.

Joining Head to Body

Slip head opening onto neck edge of body. Use mattress stitch or invisible whip stitch to sew head neatly. Add extra stuffing to neck cavity to avoid a floppy joint. If you want a poseable neck, insert a short length of wire inside the neck before closing, covering the wire ends with stuffing so they are never exposed.

Assembly (key to the seated pose)

1. Sew back thighs to the body at the points you left for legs on R9–11 of the base. Position thighs so they angle forward and their feet will sit flat on the surface. Use pins to find the correct angle before sewing.
2. Sew front legs to the lower front of the body so the paws sit on the ground slightly ahead of the thighs.
3. Sew tail to lower back center.
4. Attach ears to head at a slight backward angle so they sit naturally.
5. Optional: insert a small card disc under the seat inside the body to stabilize the base. Glue or sew in place.

Finishing

• Embroider brow lines and mouth for expression. Small stitches above the eyes help the face read as thoughtful.
• Add a collar strip: ch a length to wrap around neck, join into a ring, and sew ends secure. Add a tiny button or stitched tag if desired.
• Weave in all ends. Double-check safety eye placement and that stitches are secure if the toy is for a child.

Sizing & Adjustments

• To make the toy larger: use bulkier yarn and a larger hook (increase metric size by 1 mm increments) or work more rounds to increase head/body diameter proportionally.
• To make the toy smaller: use finer yarn and smaller hook, or reduce repeat rounds and shortening leg/body rounds while keeping proportions.

Tips for a Good Sitting Shape

• Make thighs slightly flattened on the bottom so they can sit flush; pin and bend the sewn legs to the desired angle while stuffing to set the curve.
• Place more stuffing at the rear base and under the seat rather than in the torso so the center of gravity tilts slightly back and the toy sits more stably.
• If legs don’t hold position, add a small piece of bendable but encased wire in the thigh (encase wire in tape or fabric tube) before sewing to body. Always ensure wire ends never poke through outer fabric.

Variations

• Make larger expressive eyes with felt eyelids or give sleepy brows by adding small stitched lines.
• Knit certain parts (ears or muzzle) for a different texture; the pattern gives knitting needle equivalents if you prefer some knitted panels.

Care

Spot clean with damp cloth. For washing, hand wash gently in cool water and reshape when damp; dry flat. Remove any poseable wire if you need to machine wash (not recommended).

Copyright & Use

This pattern is an original sitting dog amigurumi pattern created here to match the prompt “Gromit sat down.” You may sell finished toys made from this pattern but please credit the pattern author and do not sell or redistribute this pattern text as your own.

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