Moss Stitch (double seed) — step-by-step guide
Two related textures are often called "moss stitch": the 2-row "seed stitch" and the 4-row "moss" or "double seed" stitch. Both create a textured, reversible fabric of little bumps. This guide explains both, for flat and circular knitting, with tips for neat edges, increases/decreases, fixing mistakes, and finishing.
Materials
- Yarn (sample): Worsted / Aran (US 4) — 100 g (3.5 oz) ball ≈ 200 yards / 183 metres. Use a yarn appropriate for your project; moss stitch shows every yarn change clearly.
- Needles (recommendation): US 6–8 / UK (old) 7–5 — Metric 4.0–5.0 mm. Pick needles to match your yarn and preferred fabric density; swatch to check gauge.
- Notions: tapestry needle, stitch markers, scrap yarn for provisional cast-on (optional), crochet hook (for repairs).
Abbreviations
- K = knit
- P = purl
- st(s) = stitch(es)
- RS = right side
- WS = wrong side
How it works — basic idea
Both seed and moss stitches alternate knit and purl stitches so every knit is surrounded by purls and every purl is surrounded by knits. The 2-row seed stitch alternates every row (offset each row). The 4-row moss (double seed) repeats two rows of one offset, then two rows of the opposite offset, producing a slightly larger, denser texture.
Cast on
Cast on any even number of stitches for both stitches. For a neat selvedge when knitting flat, cast on an extra edge stitch if you want a slipped selvedge (see "Edges").
Seed stitch (2-row repeat)
Good when you want a tightly textured reversible fabric.
Worked flat (back-and-forth)
- Row 1 (RS): *K1, P1* across.
- Row 2 (WS): *P1, K1* across.
Repeat Rows 1–2. Each row starts with the opposite of the stitch you ended with the previous row, which keeps the alternating texture.
Worked in the round
- Round 1: *K1, P1* to end of round.
- Round 2: On the next round, knit the stitches that appear as purl bumps and purl the stitches that appear as knit bumps — effectively rotate the pattern by one stitch so the alternation continues.
Moss stitch / Double seed (4-row repeat)
A chunkier, slightly more open texture; also fully reversible.
Worked flat
- Row 1 (RS): *K1, P1* across.
- Row 2 (WS): *K1, P1* across (same as Row 1).
- Row 3 (RS): *P1, K1* across.
- Row 4 (WS): *P1, K1* across (same as Row 3).
Repeat Rows 1–4.
Worked in the round
- Rounds 1–2: *K1, P1* around.
- Rounds 3–4: *P1, K1* around.
Example swatch (moss stitch)
Cast on 20 sts.
- Work Rows 1–4 as above; repeat until swatch is square (10–15 rows per inch will vary by yarn and needle).
- Bind off in pattern (bind off knit stitches as knit, purl stitches as purl) to maintain the edge look.
Neat edges
- Slipped selvedge: Slip first stitch purlwise with yarn in back at beginning of every row; work last stitch according to pattern. This gives a neat chain edge.
- Garter-edge option for flat pieces: Start and end each row with slip 1, knit 1. This produces a garter column that prevents curling.
Increasing and decreasing while preserving pattern
Because moss/seed stitch depends on alternating knits and purls, plan increases/decreases so the new stitch fits the alternation.
- To increase (M1): determine whether next stitch should be K or P (look at neighbor stitches). Perform M1, then on the following row work that new stitch as the opposite stitch needed by the pattern to restore alternation.
- To decrease (k2tog / p2tog): if you decrease two stitches into one, check the resulting stitch position and treat it as the stitch that best preserves the alternating surface. Often you should decrease where two like stitches sit next to each other across rows to avoid breaking the visual pattern.
Fixing mistakes
- Missed a knit that should have been a purl? Unpick back to the mistake (tink) and reknit alternating stitches, or use a crochet hook to pull the stitch through in the correct orientation.
- To fix a dropped stitch, use a crochet hook and pick up the strand, working it alternately as knit/purl to match the row below.
Binding off in pattern
To keep the texture to the edge, bind off knits as knits and purls as purls. If binding off in pattern is awkward, bind off loosely on a larger needle and stretch slightly while finishing.
Tips & troubleshooting
- If your fabric looks like vertical ribs, you’re probably accidentally knitting the same stitch type every row; check your row offset.
- Use stitch markers every 10–20 stitches while learning to make counting easier.
- Swatch: moss stitch tends to be denser than stockinette; choose needles one size larger than you might for stockinette if you want a softer drape.
- Blocking: open up gently with a light steam or wet block; moss/seed stitches generally lie flat and are stable, so aggressive blocking is not needed.
Where it’s great
Hats, scarves, cowls, wrist warmers, and textured panels on cardigans. Because it’s reversible, moss/seed stitch is ideal for pieces that show both sides.
Quick reference
- Cast on: any even number of sts.
- Seed stitch (2-row): Row 1: *K1, P1*; Row 2: *P1, K1*.
- Moss (double seed) (4-row): Rows 1–2: *K1, P1*; Rows 3–4: *P1, K1*.
- Worked in the round: treat rounds as rows, keeping the alternation across rounds (moss uses rounds 1–2 and 3–4).
Resources & contact
For more patterns and tutorials visit https://purljam.verde.uk. If you have questions about this stitch or need help adapting it to a project, email support at team@verde.uk or find us on socials: #purljam.