Katniss-style Hooded Shawl - Knitting Pattern

Young, calm, and thoughtful pattern for a dramatic pointed hooded shawl inspired by the Katniss look. This is a constructive, step-by-step design: a triangular garter-stitch shawl with a seamed pointed hood. Three sizes included. If you want changes (gauge, deeper hood), follow the notes in the Making It Your Own section.

Finished measurements

• Small: wingspan approx 48" (122 cm). Center back length (neck to front points) approx 24" (61 cm). Hood depth when seamed 10" (25 cm).
• Medium: wingspan approx 60" (152 cm). Center back length approx 30" (76 cm). Hood depth 11" (28 cm).
• Large: wingspan approx 72" (183 cm). Center back length approx 36" (91 cm). Hood depth 12" (30 cm).

Materials

• Yarn: Worsted/Aran weight (4 / aran). Example gauge base: 18 sts = 4" (10 cm) on 5.0 mm needles. Use a springy wool or wool blend for structure and nice drape.
  Imperial: Small approx 650 yards; Medium approx 900 yards; Large approx 1150 yards.
  Metric: Small approx 594 m; Medium approx 823 m; Large approx 1052 m.
  Skein estimate (based on 100 g = 220 yd / 200 m skeins): Small = 3 skeins; Medium = 5 skeins; Large = 6 skeins (always buy an extra skein for safety).
• Needles (straight or circular for large stitch counts): recommended US 8 (5.0 mm, UK 6), or US 9 (5.5 mm, UK 5) for a slightly looser fabric; optionally US 10 (6.0 mm, UK 4) for an open drape. Metric sizes given: 5.0 mm, 5.5 mm, 6.0 mm.
• Notions: stitch marker (for center stitch), tapestry needle, waste yarn or stitch holder, scrap yarn for provisional cast-on if you prefer.

Gauge / Tension

18 sts and 24 rows = 4" (10 cm) in stockinette when using US 8 (5.0 mm). For this garter-heavy shawl you can work to the fabric you like; keep a swatch and measure so your wingspan matches the finished measurements above.

Abbreviations (US terms)

• k = knit
• p = purl
• kfb = knit into the front and back of stitch (increase +1)
• ssk = slip, slip, knit (left-leaning decrease)
• k2tog = knit 2 together (right-leaning decrease)
• RS = right side, WS = wrong side
• yo = yarn over
• st(s) = stitch(es)

Construction overview

You will: (A) start at the center back top with 3 stitches and work a garter-triangle by increasing on every RS row at the first and last stitch; (B) work until you reach the target stitch count (or wingspan); (C) bind off; (D) seam a centered length down the top edge to create the hood depth you want; optionally shape the hood into a point by leaving the seam long or by working short-row shaping when picking up for a separate hood.

Cast-on and beginning setup

Place a removable marker on the center stitch as you establish the center spine.

1. Cast on 3 sts.
2. Row 1 (RS): kfb, k1, kfb. (You now have 5 sts.) Place a removable marker on the center stitch if you like for visual reference.
3. Row 2 (WS): k across all sts.

From now on, repeat Rows 1-2 until your shawl reaches target stitch count or desired wingspan. The pattern increases 2 sts every RS row (i.e., 2 sts every 2 rows), and your stitch count will always be an odd number (keep a center stitch).

Increase section (body)

Continue:

1. Row A (RS): kfb, knit to last st, kfb.
2. Row B (WS): k across.

Repeat Row A and Row B until you have approximately 217 (271, 325) stitches on the needle for Small (Medium, Large). These targets are approximations based on the recommended gauge and will give the finished wingspans stated earlier. Alternative: stop when the wingspan measures approx 48" (122 cm) / 60" (152 cm) / 72" (183 cm).

Optional decorative center ridge

If you want a visible center garter ridge (classic Katniss look), slip the center stitch on every RS row and work the surrounding stitches in garter: one side you can purl on WS, or simply maintain the k across WS worked above — the center stitch will create a little ridge as you knit it every row in garter. The method above already creates a subtle center column.

Finishing the triangle

After you reach the target stitch count, knit 2 rows garter (RS and WS) and bind off loosely in pattern across the top edge (the long straight edge formed by the last row is the front lower edge; the original cast-on point is the center back top of the shawl).

Creating the hood

There are two straightforward methods. Choose A (seam method) for simplicity, or B (pick-up & knit hood) for a more sculpted hood and a pointed top.

Method A — Simple seamed hood (fast, Katniss-look)

1. Fold the shawl in half along the center spine with RS facing and align the two front points so the cast-on point is at the top center.
2. Decide your hood depth: Small 10" (25 cm); Medium 11" (28 cm); Large 12" (30 cm). From the top center, measure down along the two layers and mark that distance on both layers — this is your seam length.
3. Using mattress stitch, seam the two layers together from the cast-on point down to your marked length. Tie off and weave in ends — that seamed tube is your hood. The remaining lower portion of the shawl remains open and drapes as the cape.
4. For a sharper, more pointed hood: when seaming, taper the seam subtly toward the top center by leaving the first 1" (2.5 cm) of seam a little looser, or by reducing the seam width on the outside edges so the top sits more pointy.

Method B — Pick up & knit pointed hood (more control)

1. With RS facing and shawl folded in half along the center spine, place stitch holders or waste yarn in the top center cast-on tip if you used provisional cast-on; otherwise, pick up stitches along the top center edge from one side to the other, picking up roughly one stitch per garter bump. Aim to pick up approx 80 (100, 120) stitches for Small (Medium, Large) — this is a ballpark and depends on your tension; you want enough stitches to make a hood that stretches across the center back comfortably.
2. Work the hood flat in garter stitch (every row knit) as follows: Row 1 (RS): k across. Row 2 (WS): k across.
3. To shape to a point, decrease 2 sts every 4th row (or every RS row if you want a steeper point) as follows: On decrease rows: k2tog at the beginning of the row and ssk at the end of the row (reduces 2 sts per decrease row). Continue until 3 sts remain; break yarn and k3tog or k these 3 together and fasten off, leaving a long tail for seaming the top point.
4. Fold the hood along the center and seam the top point with the tail, shaping as you like to make the point prominent.
5. Weave in ends and steam/gently block to shape.

Neck finishing and front edge

You can leave the raw edges as garter stitch, or pick up stitches along the front edges and work an i-cord or ribbed facing to keep the shawl tidy:

1. Pick up along one front edge (approx one stitch per garter bump), work 6 rows of i-cord or rib, bind off in pattern. Repeat on other side.
2. Optional: sew on a small toggle or button at the throat if you want the hood to fasten.

Blocking

Gently wet-block the shawl to open the fabric evenly. For worsted wool, lay flat on blocking mats, shape wingspan and hood, pin into place and let dry. Steam-block the hood point lightly to keep its shape.

Customization tips

• Deeper hood: increase seam length or pick up more stitches and add one extra decrease round every 3 rows for a rounder point.
• More lace or texture: substitute the odd garter row with simple lace panels (e.g., pairs of yarn-overs separated by knit stitches) while keeping increase rows the same.
• Make it heavier: use a smaller needle for the hood for a denser fabric that stands up more on the head.

Troubleshooting & notes

• If your wingspan is too small: continue increase repeats until you reach the measurement you want; remember increases add 2 sts every RS row.
• If your hood gap at the forehead is big: seam a little further down to make the hood deeper, or pick up fewer stitches when using Method B.

Stitch glossary & conversions

Needles used and conversions included above again for clarity: US 8 (5.0 mm, UK 6), US 9 (5.5 mm, UK 5), US 10 (6.0 mm, UK 4). Yarn yardage and metric conversions are shown in the Materials section.

Care

Block gently and follow yarn care. For 100% wool, hand wash and dry flat; felting will change the fit drastically.

Support & credits

Pattern created for PurlJam projects. Website: https://purljam.verde.uk. Support: team@verde.uk. Socials: #purljam.

Decline note: I only provide the knitting pattern and technical guidance; I cannot help with non-pattern requests here.

Created by purlJam with the help of magic AI dust. Shop Verde for patterns and yarn.

Disclaimer: Enjoy the fun! Accuracy of patterns cannot be guaranteed. Remember to use and share content responsibly when engaging with this AI-powered app.