Knit Baby Booties (Top-down, Heel Flap & Gusset) - Easy, Classic Pattern

Upbeat, clear and beginner-friendly knit booties sized Newborn (0-3m), 3-6m and 6-12m. Worked in DK/light-worsted yarn with a traditional heel-flap & gusset—comfortable, sturdy and great for gifting. If you want a strap or pompom, see the optional finishing notes at the end. For any non-pattern questions please contact team@verde.uk. Pattern hosted at purljam.verde.uk • socials: #purljam

Sizes (approximate foot length)

• Newborn / 0-3 months: 3.25 in / 8.5 cm
• 3-6 months: 3.75 in / 9.5 cm
• 6-12 months: 4.25 in / 10.75 cm

Materials

• Yarn: DK / Light Worsted weight. Recommended: 1 x 50 g / 1.75 oz skein (approx 120 yd / 110 m) will make several pairs; per pair yardage: Newborn 25-35 yd / 23-32 m, 3-6m 35-45 yd / 32-41 m, 6-12m 45-60 yd / 41-55 m.
• Needles (choose your preferred in-the-round method: DPNs or circular magic-loop): Primary: US 6 / UK (old) 8 / 4.0 mm. Optional for a firmer cuff: US 5 / UK (old) 9 / 3.75 mm.
• Notions: tapestry needle, stitch marker, scrap yarn for waste stitch (optional to mark beginning), small pair of stitch holders or extra DPN.

Needle reference (explicit)

• US sizes: 5 (3.75 mm) and 6 (4.0 mm)
• UK (old) sizes: 9 (3.75 mm) and 8 (4.0 mm)
• Metric sizes: 3.75 mm and 4.0 mm

Gauge

Approx 22 sts x 28 rows = 4 in / 10 cm in stockinette on US 6 / 4.0 mm. Gauge affects fit—if your fabric is loose, go down a needle size; if dense, go up.

Abbreviations

• CO = cast on
• K = knit
• P = purl
• K2tog = knit 2 together (right-leaning decrease)
• SSK = slip, slip, knit (left-leaning decrease)
• st(s) = stitch(es)
• RS = right side
• WS = wrong side
• wyif = with yarn in front
• pm = place marker
• rnd = round

Stitch counts by size (important numbers)

• Newborn (label A): CO 28 sts — instep 14 / sole 14
• 3-6m (label B): CO 32 sts — instep 16 / sole 16
• 6-12m (label C): CO 36 sts — instep 18 / sole 18

Notes

This is a top-down sock-style bootie with a rib cuff, instep worked in the round and a classic heel flap + gusset. I give counts for each size in parentheses like this: (A,B,C) = (Newborn,3-6m,6-12m). If you prefer a single universal number you can follow the column that matches your target size.

Pattern

1) Cast on & cuff

CO 28 (32,36) sts. Join carefully being careful not to twist; pm for beg of round.
Work in 1x1 rib (K1, P1) for 10 (12, 14) rounds, or about 1 in / 2.5 cm for newborn up to 1.25 in / 3 cm for larger sizes. Switch to needles listed for main fabric if you used a smaller size for ribbing.

2) Instep rounds

Round 1-6 (all sizes): Knit all sts. (You may also work a decorative stitch on the instep like K2, P2 for 6 rounds if you prefer.)

3) Prepare for heel flap

We will work the heel flap back-and-forth on the sole half of sts (the back-of-foot). Place a marker to delineate instep and sole if desired.

Arrange stitches so the first needle holds instep sts and the last needle holds sole sts, or use magic-loop/DPNs and imagine the division: instep = first half, sole = second half. For counts: instep = 14 (16,18). Sole = 14 (16,18).

4) Heel flap

Slide sole sts to one needle and work heel flap flat over sole sts only:
Row 1 (RS): *Slip 1 wyif, K across to last st, slip 1 wyif, turn.*
Row 2 (WS): *Slip 1 wyif, P across to last st, slip 1 wyif, turn.*
Repeat these 2 rows for 12 (14,16) rows total (that is, 6 (7,8) repeats of the RS/WS pair). End with WS row completed. The slipped edge forms a reinforced heel flap.

5) Turn heel

Work short-row heel turn:
Row 1 (RS): K to 2 sts past center of heel flap, SSK, K1, W&T (wrap and turn) — place wrap on next st and turn RS->WS.
Row 2 (WS): P to 2 sts past center on WS, P2tog tbl (or P2tog if you prefer), P1, W&T.
Continue working toward each edge, picking up wraps and working them together with the stitch when you encounter them on the return rows, until all sts are worked and the heel is centered. The result is a little cup-shaped heel. (If you prefer German short rows, you can work those instead—wrap & turn is fine for beginners.)

6) Pick up for gusset

With RS facing, pick up and knit along the edge of the heel flap: pick up 6 (7,8) sts on each side of the heel flap (exact pickup: pick up 1 stitch for roughly every 2 rows of the heel flap). You now have:
Sole (heel center) sts: 14 (16,18)
Plus picked-up sts both sides: +12 (14,16)
Plus instep sts: 14 (16,18)
TOTAL temporarily = 40 (46,52)
The next step is to work gusset decreases to return to the original round count (28,32,36).

7) Gusset decreases

Set-up round (RS): Knit across instep sts, knit across first half of sole+pickup as follows: knit across sole center, then knit picked-up side until you reach the center of that side; place marker; continue to other side.
Decrease rounds (repeat until you reach your original total stitch count):
Rnd 1 (dec round): On needle holding sole: K across to 3 sts before instep, K2tog, knit across instep, on the other side: ssk, knit to end.
Rnd 2: Knit across.
Repeat Rnd 1 and Rnd 2 until total stitch count = original CO 28 (32,36). This will take about 6 (7,8) decrease rounds: Newborn 6, 3-6m 7, 6-12m 8. Stop when you have the original number of sts in the round again (instep + sole = 28/32/36).

8) Foot

Now the bootie is back to the round count. Knit in the round on all sts until the foot (measured from the back of the heel to the base of where the toes will start) measures:
Newborn: about 3.25 in / 8.5 cm
3-6m: about 3.75 in / 9.5 cm
6-12m: about 4.25 in / 10.75 cm
Be conservative and try on or compare to the child's foot. Toe shaping follows next—stop when measured length is reached (do not include toe shaping length).

9) Toe shaping

We shape the toe across the instep/sole with decreases every other round until 8 sts remain, then graft.
Decrease rounds (all sizes):
Rnd A: *K to 3 sts before marker, K2tog, K1; on next section SSK, K to 1 before next marker; repeat around.*
Round B: Knit all sts.
Repeat Rnd A and Rnd B until you have approx 8 sts left (4 sts on each needle if using DPNs), spreading decreases evenly so toe shapes symmetrically.
When about 8 sts remain, divide stitches evenly on two needles and graft toe using Kitchener stitch OR draw yarn through remaining sts twice and fasten off if you prefer a fast finish. Kitchener gives a smoother sole seam.

10) Finishing

• Weave in ends with tapestry needle. If you used grafting for the toe, hide tails inside the bootie.
• Block lightly if needed to even fabric (avoid over-blocking—booties should remain slightly dense).
• Optional strap: pick up approx 10 (12,12) sts from one side of cuff, knit I-cord 20 (24,26) rows, bind off and sew to other side with a small button.
• Optional embellishment: small pompom, single crochet edge with leftover yarn, or tie a ribbon through holes made by a YO row at cuff.

Sizing & Fit tips

• If the booties feel loose, go down one needle size or add a strap.
• If you want a slipper that stays on extra well, add a single-button strap or sew a velvet ribbon around cuff interior.
• For thicker fabric (warmer booties), use a slightly thicker yarn and up a needle size, but note this changes yardage and gauge.

Troubleshooting

• Gap between instep and gusset: Check tension when you pick up stitches; pick up slightly tighter to avoid gaps.
• Toe too pointy: reduce number of decrease rounds before grafting or leave 10 sts for a rounder toe.
• Cuff flops open: use a smaller needle for the first 4-6 rounds of the cuff (we listed US 5 / 3.75 mm as an option).

Care

Machine-washable DK: follow yarn label. Typically, wash gentle cycle cold and lay flat to dry. For wool, hand wash and lay flat.

Credits & contact

Pattern by PurlJam. Website: https://purljam.verde.uk. Support: team@verde.uk. Socials: #purljam

Created by purlJam with the help of magic AI dust. Shop Verde for patterns and yarn.

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