Knit Bucket Hat (Top-Down) - PurlJam

Designer: PurlJam — website: https://purljam.verde.uk • support: team@verde.uk • socials: #purljam

Overview

This is a modern, slightly slouchy bucket hat knit top-down in the round. Built with a neat turned rib brim and a soft crown shaping so it sits comfortably without gaping. Worked in worsted weight yarn; adjustable for four adult sizes. Includes clear gauge, stitch counts, decrease routine that works for any stitch multiple, and optional variations (lined brim, wider brim).

Finished Measurements

• Size S (Small): Finished hat circumference ~20" (51 cm). Recommended head circumference 19–21" (48–53 cm).
• Size M (Medium): Finished ~22" (56 cm). Recommended head 21–23" (53–58 cm).
• Size L (Large): Finished ~24" (61 cm). Recommended head 23–25" (58–64 cm).
• Size XL (X-Large): Finished ~26" (66 cm). Recommended head 25–27" (64–69 cm).

Materials

• Yarn: Worsted weight (US 4 / Aran) smooth, medium-weight wool or wool-blend. Imperial & Metric yardage per size: S 150 yds (137 m); M 200 yds (183 m); L 225 yds (206 m); XL 250 yds (229 m). (Totals include brim and small amount for seaming/weaving).
• Needles / Hooks (needles): Circular knitting needles (for magic loop or 16"/40 cm cable) plus set of double-pointed needles or longer cable for small circumference as needed.
• Needle sizes (US / UK old / Metric): Smaller (for brim): US 7 / UK 7 / 4.5 mm. Larger (for body & crown): US 8 / UK 6 / 5.0 mm. Use size that matches gauge.
• Notions: stitch marker, tapestry needle, scrap yarn for provisional cast-on (optional), stitch holder, measuring tape, blunt darning needle.

Gauge

18 stitches and 24 rows = 4" (10 cm) in stockinette stitch, worked in the round on US 8 (5.0 mm). Make a swatch in pattern and block it to match gauge — gauge is important for hat fit.

Abbreviations (US terms)

• K = knit
• P = purl
• K2tog = knit 2 together (right-leaning decrease)
• SSK = slip, slip, knit (left-leaning decrease)
• M1 = make one (lift strand between needles and knit through the back loop unless otherwise noted)
• PM = place marker
• SM = slip marker
• CO = cast on
• BO = bind off

Notes

• The pattern is worked top-down in the round. You will start at the crown and increase to reach head circumference, then work the body, then a folded rib brim. The brim is worked last and folded up. If you prefer a floppy outer brim, use the alternative brim instructions in Variations.
• Numbers in parentheses in the instructions show stitch counts for S (M, L, XL) where applicable.
• If your stitch count after increases is slightly off, the crown decrease routine uses markers and evenly spaced decreases so you can adapt to any count.

Cast-On & Crown (Top)

Note: Use the magic loop or DPNs to start small and join in the round.

CO 8 sts with smaller needles (US 7 / 4.5 mm) using long-tail or twisted CO. Join carefully to avoid twisting; place marker for beginning of round (BOR).

Round 1: *K in front and back of each stitch (kfb) around* — 16 sts. Round 2: Knit around. Round 3: *K1, kfb* around — 24 sts. Round 4: Knit around. Round 5: *K2, kfb* around — 32 sts. Round 6: Knit around. Round 7: *K3, kfb* around — 40 sts. Round 8: Knit around. Round 9: *K4, kfb* around — 48 sts. Round 10: Knit around. Round 11: *K5, kfb* around — 56 sts. Round 12: Knit around. Round 13: *K6, kfb* around — 64 sts. Round 14: Knit around. Round 15: *K7, kfb* around — 72 sts. Round 16: Knit around. Round 17: *K8, kfb* around — 80 sts. Round 18: Knit around. Round 19: *K9, kfb* around — 88 sts. Round 20: Knit around.

Continue increasing in this fashion (work 1 increasing round, then 1 plain round) until your stitch count matches the chart below or reaches the target stitch count for your size based on gauge. Target stitch counts (approx), adjusted to be divisible by 4 for ribbing later: S: 88 sts; M: 100 sts; L: 108 sts; XL: 116 sts. If your increases overshoot slightly, you can work the next plain round and stop increasing when you reach or slightly exceed the target.

Body / Side

Change to larger needles (US 8 / 5.0 mm). Work in stockinette in the round (knit every round) until the hat from crown top measures approximately:

• S: 4.25" (10.5 cm)
• M: 4.5" (11.5 cm)
• L: 4.75" (12 cm)
• XL: 5.0" (12.7 cm)

Measure along the side from the center of crown to where you want the brim to begin (this measurement excludes the turned-up rib brim). Try the hat on to confirm length if possible — bucket hats have a slightly taller body than beanies.

Crown Decrease (top shaping)

When you reach the desired body length, you will shape the crown by decreasing evenly. This method uses markers so it works with any stitch count.

1) Place 8 markers evenly around the round (or 9 markers for larger heads if you prefer more, but 8 is a good starting point). To place evenly, divide total stitch count by 8 and distribute the remainder by adding one stitch to the first few sections so sections are as equal as possible.

2) Decrease Set (repeat until approx 16–20 sts remain):

1. Decrease round: *K to 2 sts before next marker, k2tog, SM* — work to end of round.
2. Next round: Knit across (no decreases).

Each Decrease round reduces total stitches by the number of markers (typically 8). Continue the Decrease Set until your total stitches are approximately 16–20. When total stitches are low enough, switch to faster decreases:

3) When <= 24 sts: work every round as decreases as follows until 8–12 sts remain: *K1, k2tog* repeat to end. Break yarn leaving 8" (20 cm) tail, thread through remaining stitches with tapestry needle and pull tight to close. Weave in the tail neatly on the inside.

Turned Rib Brim

After closing the crown, pick up and knit the brim from the cast-on edge or (if you used a provisional cast-on) unpick the provisional and place live sts on needles. If you used a standard closed cast-on you cannot pick up live stitches; instead, work the brim earlier in the process by leaving live stitches for the brim. For clarity, this pattern assumes you left the cast-on live or used provisional CO so you can work the turned brim at the end. (If you did not, see Variations for an alternate brim worked earlier.)

Pick up and place on smaller needles (US 7 / 4.5 mm). Rib as follows for the turned brim:

Round 1 (brim): *K2, P2* around; work 6 rounds (or until brim measures 1.25" / 3 cm). Fold brim up inside and either graft the folded edge to the inside with Kitchener graft across knit columns, or mattress stitch the purl valleys to the inside for a neat finish.

Finishing

• Weave in all ends on inside of hat.
• Block gently to even stitches and shape the brim: wet-block the brim outward to create a soft downward slope; pin if necessary and allow to dry.
• Optional: Add lightweight interfacing or sew in a thin fabric lining inside the brim for extra structure.

Variations & Adjustments

• Wider brim: After body length and before crown decreases, place a removable lifeline around the round, then continue to knit 4–6 rounds, work an increase round (M1 evenly spaced to add ~8–16 sts), and knit 10–16 rounds more to create an outward brim. Then proceed with crown decreases as written. Alternatively, knit crown first (top-down) and pick up stitches around cast-on edge and work the brim outward flat.
• Slouchier style: add 0.75–1.5" (2–4 cm) to the body before starting crown decreases.
• Lined brim: cut a circle of lightweight fabric matching the brim shape and whipstitch it to the inside brim for added structure and to prevent sagging.

Common Troubleshooting

• Hat too tight: go up half a needle size and reknit gauge swatch.
• Hat too loose or floppy: go down half a needle size or choose a yarn with more structure (less drape).
• Gaps at decreases: use SSK instead of k2tog for left-leaning decreases to keep a neat look; ensure consistent tension.

Stitch Glossary

Knit (K)

Insert right needle into stitch on left needle from front to back and knit.

Purl (P)

Insert right needle into stitch on left needle from back to front and purl.

K2tog

Knit two stitches together as one; right-leaning decrease.

SSK

Slip next two stitches knitwise one at a time to right needle, insert left needle into fronts of slipped stitches and knit them together through the back loops; left-leaning decrease.

M1

Pick up the horizontal bar between needles and knit through the back loop to form a new stitch (you can also knit through front loop if you prefer a different lean).

Sizing & Custom Fit

Always knit a gauge swatch and measure head circumference and desired depth. Adjust number of increase rounds at top to reach target stitch count based on your gauge. Use the stitch/4" gauge to calculate required stitches: target stitches = (head circumference in inches) x (gauge sts per 4") / 4. Round to nearest even number or distribute extra stitches across sections when placing markers.

Notes on Materials & Needle Conversion

Needle sizes shown above as US / UK old / Metric mm. Yarn weight is shown in US weight system and common name (Worsted / US 4). Imperial yardage is in yards, metric is in meters.

Support & Copyright

Questions about the pattern? Contact team: team@verde.uk. Pattern © PurlJam. For non-pattern requests or content unrelated to knitting/crochet we politely decline to provide that content.

Happy knitting!

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