Knit Pencil Skirt with Asymmetrical Bottom Ruffle

Fitted, modern pencil skirt worked in the round with a clean ribbed waist and a dramatic asymmetrical ruffle attached at the hem. Knitable in DK/light-worsted weight yarn for wearable structure with a comfortable drape. This pattern is written for 4 sizes (S, M, L, XL). Instructions include measurements, stitch counts, and a clear method for making the ruffle sit off-center for an asymmetrical look.

Designer notes

Work a gauge swatch and block it the way you will wear the skirt. The skirt is designed to sit at the natural waist or just below depending on your preference; choose the size that corresponds to your body measurements. An optional elastic can be threaded through the waistband casing for a firmer hold.

Sizes (ready-to-wear finished circumference)

• S (UK 6-8 / US 2-4): Waist 28" (71 cm), Hip 36" (91 cm), Skirt length (waist to hem before ruffle) 22" (56 cm)
• M (UK 10-12 / US 6-8): Waist 32" (81 cm), Hip 40" (102 cm), Length 22" (56 cm)
• L (UK 14-16 / US 10-12): Waist 36" (91 cm), Hip 44" (112 cm), Length 22.5" (57 cm)
• XL (UK 18-20 / US 14-16): Waist 40" (102 cm), Hip 48" (122 cm), Length 23" (58 cm)

Yarn

Suggested: DK / Light Worsted weight yarn, 225 yds (206 m) per 100 g ball (typical DK).

• S: approx 900 yds / 823 m (~400 g, 4 x 100 g)
• M: approx 1125 yds / 1029 m (~500 g, 5 x 100 g)
• L: approx 1350 yds / 1234 m (~600 g, 6 x 100 g)
• XL: approx 1575 yds / 1440 m (~700 g, 7 x 100 g)

These yardages assume a full ruffle with moderate fullness. For a subtler ruffle reduce yardage by ~15%.

Needles & Notions

• Main needles (circular, long enough to hold circumference comfortably): US 6 / UK 8 / Metric 4.0 mm
• Waist ribbing needles (optional slightly smaller for firmer rib): US 5 / UK 9 / Metric 3.75 mm
• Ruffle needles (optional larger for airier ruffle): US 8 / UK 6 / Metric 5.0 mm
• Stitch markers, tapestry needle, waste yarn for provisional cast-on (optional), 1.5 cm wide elastic (optional), safety pin or elastic threader

Gauge

22 sts x 28 rnds = 4" (10 cm) in stockinette worked in the round on US 6 / 4.0 mm needles after blocking. Adjust needle size to obtain gauge.

Abbreviations

• K: knit
• P: purl
• K2tog: knit 2 together
• kfb: knit into front and back (increase)
• M1: make one (increase)
• sts: stitches
• rnd(s): round(s)
WS/LW: wrong side / long way (for flat ruffle)

Stitch counts at key points (based on gauge above)

• S: waist cast-on sts 154 → hip sts 198
• M: waist cast-on sts 176 → hip sts 220
• L: waist cast-on sts 198 → hip sts 242
• XL: waist cast-on sts 220 → hip sts 264

These counts are calculated from the finished circumferences at gauge. The pattern uses these target counts; you can adjust to match your personal measurements.

Construction overview

1. Cast on for the waist rib (smaller needles), join and work rib to create a neat waist.
2. Switch to the larger needle and knit the skirt body in the round, increasing evenly to the hip circumference.
3. Optional short-row shaping for comfy fit over the back/seat.
4. Work the pencil portion to the desired knee length minus ruffle depth.
5. Make the ruffle as a separate rectangular/curved piece worked flat with increasing rows for fullness; shape one edge so the ruffle's length varies (creates asymmetry).
6. Block pieces and sew the ruffle to the skirt hem with a diagonal seam; finish and insert elastic if desired.

Pattern

1) Waist Rib (choose fitted or standard)

Using smaller needles (US 5 / 3.75 mm) cast on the waist cast-on sts for your size using a stretchy cast-on (long-tail or tubular/elastic cast-on works great). Place marker and join for working in the round, being careful not to twist.

Work 1x1 rib (K1, P1) for 2" (5 cm). For a firmer waistband you can work 2.5" (6.5 cm).

Optional: On the last round of rib, switch to larger needles for the next round, or continue with larger needles before the first stockinette rnd.

2) Transition & Shape to Hip

Change to larger needles (US 6 / 4.0 mm). If you cast on to waist sts and plan to shape to the hip, increase evenly until you reach the hip stitch count listed above. Example method:

• Set the skirt on the round. Work in stockinette (knit every rnd) and, every 6th round, work one round of even increases until you hit the target hip stitch count. Use M1 (lift bar and knit through back loop) or kfb as your increase. The exact frequency depends on how many sts you must add; distribute increases evenly by placing markers and spacing increases evenly between them.

Alternate simple method: Work this increase round: *K some number, M1; repeat to end,* adjusting the 'some number' to distribute increases evenly. (For example, to add 44 sts to 154, you will place an increase approximately every 3rd or 4th stitch across the round; divide your starting stitch count by the increases needed for exact spacing.)

3) Optional short-row hip/back shaping

To avoid pulling through the seat you can add short rows: after reaching hip circumference, work 4–6 short rows across the back panel working wraps and turns over the central 1/3 of the back stitches. This gives extra room without changing circumference. Work these short rows 1–2 times, then pick up the wraps and incorporate them into the knitting.

4) Pencil section

From the hip line, work in the round in stockinette to the desired length. For a tapered pencil silhouette, you can work small decreases as follows:

• At 4" (10 cm) below the hip, place 4 evenly spaced decrease markers around the skirt. Every 6th round, work K2tog immediately before a marker across all 4 markers (so 4 decreases every 6 rounds) until you reduce the circumference by 4–6" of fabric ease or until you feel the skirt fits the leg comfortably. Maintain balance; do not over-decrease if you want a classic pencil fit that allows walking.

Work to the measurement given above for length before adding the ruffle (waist-to-hem measurement minus ruffle depth). Example target: 22" from waist to top of ruffle for S/M, 22.5–23" for L/XL.

5) Bind off hem for ruffle attachment

Bind off loosely in pattern (if doing stockinette, use a knitwise-loose BO so the pick-up is easy). Alternatively leave live stitches on waste yarn and graft later.

6) Asymmetrical ruffle (worked flat)

This ruffle is made flat so you can shape a diagonal edge. Work on larger needles (US 8 / 5.0 mm) for a soft, airy ruffle. Choose ruffle fullness: 1.5x = moderate fullness, 2x = full ruffle. To calculate cast-on for the ruffle body: take the finished hem circumference (hip circumference) and multiply by fullness ratio. For example S hem 36" x 2 = 72"; at gauge in rows per inch this becomes sts based on your stitch gauge on the ruffle needle. A simpler approach (recommended): cast on a multiple of the hip stitch count: for 1.5x fullness cast on 1.5 x hip sts (round up to a multiple of your stitch repeat); for 2x fullness cast on 2 x hip sts.

Suggested ruffle stitch pattern (garter lace & simple increases): Cast on RUFFLE_STS = hip_sts x fullness_ratio (work numbers below as guidance):

• S: 1.5x => cast on 297 sts (198 x 1.5) for moderate fullness; 2x => 396 sts for full ruffle
• M: 1.5x => 330 sts; 2x => 440 sts
• L: 1.5x => 363 sts; 2x => 484 sts
• XL: 1.5x => 396 sts; 2x => 528 sts

Work the ruffle flat in garter (knit every row) or a light lace if you prefer (for example: Row 1 (RS): *K2, yo, K2tog; repeat to end. Rows 2 & 4 (WS): Knit. Row 3: Knit.)

To create the asymmetric diagonal: on one short edge of the rectangle (this will be the side that is higher/shorter), decrease 1 stitch at the beginning of every 4th row until you have shortened that edge by the desired amount (for example 3"–5" / 8–13 cm). This creates a triangle wedge that, when attached, makes the ruffle longer on one side and shorter on the other.

Work ruffle depth to desired measurement: typical ruffle depth 6"–9" (15–23 cm) measured from top edge to the lowest edge. Bind off loosely.

7) Finishing: attaching the ruffle

1. Block the skirt tube and the ruffle flat to shape. The blocking will make joining easier and neater.
2. Laying the skirt flat, decide which side you want the short edge and long edge of the ruffle to sit (shorter on one side produces asymmetry).
3. With right sides together, align the top edge of the ruffle to the bound-off/finished edge of the skirt. If you left live stitches at the hem, you can graft the ruffle (pick up and knit rows) or mattress-stitch the ruffle to the hem. For a neat join: pick up 1 stitch in the ruffle for every 1 stitch across the skirt and use mattress stitch to graft or whipstitch through both layers from the WS.
4. When sewing the ruffle, angle the short edge upward and the long edge downward—this will form the diagonal line. Ease the fullness evenly as you sew; you may gather slightly where needed to eliminate gaps.

8) Final touches

• Weave in all ends. Block the assembled skirt so the ruffle sits naturally.
• If desired, make a small interior casing in the ribbed waistband and thread a length of elastic (measure around your waist minus 1"–1.5" for firm hold) using a safety pin. Sew ends of elastic together and close the casing.
• Trim any stray threads and press lightly from the WS if the fiber allows.

Notes & fitting tips

• For a skirt that sits lower on the hips, choose a size where hip measurement matches your hip measurement and adjust the waist with elastic or small decreases as you go.
• To reduce fullness in the ruffle, use smaller needles for the ruffle or decrease the fullness ratio.
• If you want the asymmetry to be more subtle, only shorten the wedge by 1–2" (2.5–5 cm). For dramatic drape, shorten by 4–6" (10–15 cm).

Care

Care depends on yarn choice. For wool: hand wash and dry flat or follow yarn label. A wool-blend may be machine washable—follow manufacturer instructions. Block the skirt gently to shape.

Troubleshooting

• If the waistband feels loose: remove a few rounds and re-knit with smaller needles OR insert elastic after finishing.
• Uneven ruffle fullness: block the ruffle and re-sew distributing fullness as evenly as possible; a few gathering stitches at the top edge can help control fullness distribution.

If you have questions about sizing or assembly: visit https://purljam.verde.uk or email support at team@verde.uk. Share your make with us on socials: #purljam.

Happy knitting — take your time blocking and joining the ruffle for the best asymmetrical drape.

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