Knit Toy Elephant (DK) - Purl Jam

US, UK Old and Metric needle sizes and yarn metric/imperial provided. Finished toy approx 9\" (23 cm) seated. Suitable for confident beginner / intermediate knitters.

Materials

Yarn: DK / Light Worsted. Approx 150 g total (3 x 50 g balls). Per ball: 50 g (1.76 oz) = 115 m (126 yd). Total: 150 g (5.29 oz) = 345 m (378 yd).
Needles: Main fabric US 6 (UK 8, 4.0 mm). Smaller needles for firmer pieces US 3 (UK 11, 3.25 mm) for trunk/ears optional. Double-pointed needles (or small circulars) US 6 (UK 8, 4.0 mm) for i-cord tail. Tapestry needle for sewing.
Notions: 10–12 mm safety eyes (or embroider eyes), toy stuffing (polyfill), stitch markers, scrap yarn for provisional cast-on (optional), small amount of contrasting yarn for tusks / nails (optional).
Other: Optional small amount of pink yarn for cheek blush, removable thread for safety when gifting to young children.

Gauge

22 sts x 30 rows = 10 cm (4\") in stockinette on US 6 (4.0 mm). Adjust needle size to match gauge; tighter gauge for toy helps stuffing not show through.

Abbreviations

CO = cast on
BO = bind off
k = knit
p = purl
st(s) = stitch(es)
RS = right side
WS = wrong side
k2tog = knit 2 together (right-leaning decrease)
ssk = slip, slip, knit (left-leaning decrease)
m1 = make 1 (lift strand and knit through back or front depending on preference)
rep = repeat
tbl = through back loop

Finished Measurements

Height (seated): ~9\" / 23 cm
Width (body): ~6.5\" / 16.5 cm

Notes

Pieces are worked flat unless stated. Seam with mattress stitch for neat join.
Place safety eyes between Rows indicated before stuffing the head firmly; use washers to secure.

Pattern

Body (Make 2: Front and Back)

These two identical panels are seamed together leaving openings for ears and legs to be attached before final closing.

CO 36 sts on US 6 (4.0 mm).
Work garter edge: Row 1 (RS): k across. Row 2 (WS): k across. Repeat these 2 rows 4 times total (8 rows of garter).
Change to stockinette: Row 9 (RS): k to end. Row 10 (WS): p to end. Work even in st st for 42 rows (this makes the body depth). (Check: at gauge 30 rows = 10 cm, 42 rows ≈ 14 cm.)
Next 6 rows: work garter (k every row) to match lower edge.
BO all sts loosely. Block lightly if desired.

Notes: When seaming two panels, place RS facing out so stockinette shows correctly. Do not stuff until head and legs are attached to one side so you can position stuffing while assembling.

Head

CO 28 sts on US 6 (4.0 mm).
Garter edge: k 4 rows.
Work stockinette: K on RS, p on WS for 8 rows.
Begin shaping: Row 1 (RS): k8, m1, k12, m1, k8 = 30 sts. Row 2 (WS): p to end.
Increase row (RS): k to last st, m1, k1, m1, k to end — increase 2 sts. Repeat every 4th row until you have 36 sts total (this will create a gentle widening for cheeks).
Work even for 6 rows in stockinette.
Decrease rows for crown: K2tog at each end every RS row until 20 sts remain. Work one WS row purl. K2tog across until 5–6 sts remain. BO remaining sts. Fasten off leaving long tail for sewing.

Placement for safety eyes: On the head RS, mark eye placement about 7–8 rows down from the start of the stockinette expanding section, spaced about 6–7 sts apart (approx 2.5–3 cm). Insert safety eyes now and secure backs before stuffing.

Trunk

Option A: Knit tube (recommended)

Using US 3 (3.25 mm) for a firmer trunk, CO 8 sts onto 4 DPNs or small circular using magic loop; join round to work in the round being careful not to twist (or work flat and seam).
Work in 2x2 rib (k2, p2) for 2 rounds to stabilise, then work in stockinette in the round (knit every round) for 22 rounds (approx 6–7 cm) or until desired length.
To shape tip: decrease evenly over next 4 rounds: *k2tog repeat to end* then *k2tog repeat* until 8 sts remain. Break yarn, thread through remaining sts, pull to close and fasten off leaving long tail for sewing.

Option B: If preferred, knit flat a tapered triangle and roll/ seam into trunk shape.

Ears (Make 2)

Using US 3 (3.25 mm) for a firmer, crisp ear, CO 14 sts.
Row 1 (RS): k across. Row 2 (WS): k across. Repeat garter 2 rows for edge (optional).
Work garter and short-row shaping to create rounded ear: Row 1 (RS): k to end. Row 2 (WS): k to end. Repeat these 4 garter rows twice more.
Decrease for curved top: Row 1 (RS): k2tog, k to last 2 sts, k2tog (decrease 2 sts). Row 2 (WS): k across. Repeat decreases every RS row until 6 sts remain. BO remaining sts. Block ear flat, shaping curve. Fold a small pleat at the base and stitch closed to create ear cup.

Legs (Make 4)

Legs are worked in the round or flat then seamed — short tubes stuffed, then sewn to body.

CO 12 sts onto 4 DPNs or small circular (US 6, 4.0 mm) for stockinette tube. Join to work in the round.
Knit 18 rounds for foot length (~4.5 cm). Optional: k2tbl p2 rib for 2 rounds at top to create a neat edge.
Stuff firmly as you go or wait until the foot is closed. Decrease: k2tog around to 6 sts. Cut yarn leaving long tail, thread through remaining sts and pull closed. Fasten off and weave in end.

Tail

Using DPNS or double-ended technique US 6 (4.0 mm), make 3-st i-cord, 14 cm long (approx 5.5\"). Alternatively crochet an i-cord with a 4.0 mm hook.
Add a small tuft if desired with 6 strands of yarn tied and trimmed.

Tusks (Optional, make 2)

Using contrast yarn (cream) and US 3 (3.25 mm), CO 6 sts, work in garter 6 rows, then decrease 1 st at each end every other row to form a small wedge. Stuff lightly and sew under trunk sides.

Assembly

Block pieces lightly if needed.
Seam the head to one body panel at the neck area using mattress stitch. Leave the body unseamed until legs and trunk are attached so you can better position them.
Sew trunk to centre front of head: attach trunk opening to lower centre of head RS; use plenty of stuffing in trunk base to maintain shape.
Position safety eyes and secure. Embroider eyelids or lashes if desired.
Attach ears to sides of head: overlap a little under the head seam for a natural look. Sew through both ear base pleat and head fabric to secure; place them symmetrically just behind the eyes.
Assemble legs: place two front legs evenly spaced at front bottom edge of body and two back legs at the rear bottom edge. Whipstitch or mattress stitch on inside seam allowance so legs sit naturally when the elephant is seated. Stuff body firmly but not overstuff so pieces can be manipulated during seaming. Close body with mattress stitch.
Sew tail to back centre seam. Add tuft.
Embroider mouth/cheek marks if desired with duplicate stitch or surface embroidery. Add blush carefully with a tiny brush and yarn dye or wool-friendly chalk for a soft cheek.

Finishing

Weave in all ends. Trim any stray strands. Check securely that safety eyes are firmly fastened and inaccessible to children if giving as a baby toy.
Wash gently by hand and reshape, or surface spot clean only if stuffed with polyfill. If washing, protect with mesh bag and dry flat.

Sizes and Adjustments

To make a smaller elephant, use smaller needles (US 3 / 3.25 mm) and fingering weight yarn; rework gauge and reduce stitch counts by ~20%.
To make a larger elephant, use worsted yarn and larger needles (US 7 / 4.5 mm); increase stitch counts proportionally.

Safety

For children under 3, avoid safety eyes and instead embroider eyes securely. Ensure all attachments are sewn tightly.
Use CE-approved toy eyes and materials if selling commercially; follow local toy-safety regulations.

Tips

Work a firmer gauge for toys so the stuffing doesn’t show through. Use a smaller needle for trunk and ears for a crisp shape.
Use scrap yarn to temporarily place eyes and positions of ears/legs before sewing; take photographs for reference.

Questions or support: email team@verde.uk. Pattern from Purl Jam — https://purljam.verde.uk. Share finished makes with #purljam

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