Knitted Lace Edging for a Square (Chartless)

Delicate, chartless lace edging designed to be picked up and knitted around any square (table topper, blanket square, shawl square, etc.). Worked flat along each side and turned at the corners with simple increase groups so the lace sits smoothly around a 90° turn. Gauge and stitch multiple are flexible so this pattern is written to adapt to any square size; a worked example for a 12”/30cm square is included.

Materials

• Yarn: Fingering weight (sample shown): 50 g / 1.76 oz, 200 yd / 183 m. You can also use light fingering or sport for a sturdier edge—adjust needle size accordingly.
• Needles: US 4 / UK 8 / 3.5 mm (recommended). Alternative: US 3 / UK 10 / 3.25 mm for tighter lace, or US 5 / UK 6 / 3.75 mm for airier lace.
• Notions: Tapestry needle, stitch marker, removable marker or scrap yarn for provisional CO if you prefer, blocking pins and surface to block onto.

Gauge

Gauge is not critical for an edging but useful for planning: approximately 20 stitches = 4” / 10 cm in stockinette on recommended needles. Lace will open on blocking; check how many stitches you pick up per inch on the fabric you are edging before starting.

Finished & Sizing

Edging is worked as a strip along each side of the square. The pattern multiple is 12 stitches + 2 selvedge sts. For each side you will pick up an even number of stitches and adjust to the nearest multiple of 12 + 2, or use the corner increase method described below to absorb remainder stitches.

Abbreviations (US terms with UK/Old in parentheses)

• K — knit (K)
• P — purl (P)
• YO — yarn over (YO)
• K2tog — knit two together (k2tog)
• SSK — slip, slip, knit (slip-slip-knit) (ssk)
• KFB — knit into front and back (inc) (kfb)

Notes

1. You can either pick up stitches evenly along each edge and work the edging in one continuous round (seaming corners as you go) or work the edging side-by-side and seam the ends after blocking. This pattern describes working each side flat and turning corners with increase groups; if you prefer continuous, follow the pick-up numbers and work same corner increases while maintaining stitch orientation.
2. Pick up method: pick up 1 stitch for approximately every row/2 rows of your fabric depending on fabric density. Count picked-up stitches on one side before beginning to make adjustments to match the 12-stitch multiple.
3. If the picked-up count is not a multiple of 12+2, you may either distribute extra stitches across the side (e.g., add 1 extra between repeats) or use the documented corner increase groups (recommended) so you do not have to redistribute across the straight edges.

Pattern Repeat

Multiple: 12 sts + 2 edge sts (1 edge st at each side of the worked row).

Set-up

1. Pick up stitches along one side of your square using preferred method; place 1 stitch marker at each corner location (or note the corner boundaries). Count total picked-up stitches (call this S).
2. If S fits the formula S = 12R + 2, where R is the number of repeats, you're good to begin. If not, do not worry—use the Corner Increase method below to absorb the remainder.

Edge Pattern (work flat, right side rows have pattern)

Work with 1 selvedge stitch at each end of every row (slip the first stitch purlwise on RS rows if you prefer a neat chain). The following is an 8-row repeat.

Row 1 (RS): K1, *K2, YO, K2tog, K2, SSK, YO; repeat from * to last st, K1.

Row 2 (WS): K1, Purl to last st, K1.

Row 3 (RS): K1, *K1, YO, K2tog, K2, SSK, YO, K1; repeat from * to last st, K1.

Row 4 (WS): K1, Purl to last st, K1.

Row 5 (RS): K1, *YO, K2tog, K4, SSK, YO; repeat from * to last st, K1.

Row 6 (WS): K1, Purl to last st, K1.

Row 7 (RS): Repeat Row 3.

Row 8 (WS): K1, Purl to last st, K1.

After Row 8, repeat Rows 1–8 until edge length reaches the corner marker minus 1–2 stitches (see corner instructions) or until you are ready to turn the corner.

Corner Increase Method (turning 90° corners without re-distributing across side)

Use this when your picked-up stitch count on a side is not an exact multiple of 12+2. You’ll produce a little triangle of extra lace at each corner so the edging turns smoothly.

1. When you reach the last repeat before a corner (on a RS row), stop with about 4–6 stitches remaining before the corner (so you are not working right up to the corner point). Work the regular pattern until you reach the last full repeat location then work the following Corner Increase Row in place of the normal RS row.
2. Corner Increase Row (RS): K1 (selvedge), [YO, K1] repeat X times, K1. Choose X so that the total number of stitches added across all 4 corners absorbs your remainder stitches and results in an even multiple on the next side—common X is 4–6. For example, if you have 6 extra stitches that need absorbing for the side to be divisible by 12 on the next edge, spread them as +2 stitches at two corners or +1 at each corner; this is flexible. The YO,K1 groups create new stitches you will work on the next WS row.
3. Next row (WS): K1, Purl across establishing the new YO loops as purls where they fall; these loops will be worked into the lace pattern on the following RS row and will form the gentle miter at the corner.
4. Resume pattern Rows 1–8 across the next side. If more extra stitches need to be added, increase the number of YO,K1 groups in the corner increment. If you accidentally have too many stitches after the corner, work a K2tog or SSK pair in the first repeat of the new side to bring the count back.

Worked Example: 12” / 30 cm Square

Assume you pick up 36 stitches per side (common on a medium gauge fabric). 36 = 12*3, so you have 3 repeats across the side plus 2 selvedge sts: 12*3 + 2 = 38 total picks needed. If you only picked up 36, you are short 2 sts. Option A: redistribute 2 extra picks across the side. Option B (recommended): add +1 at two adjacent corners. At the first corner, on the Corner Increase Row make [YO,K1] once (adds 1 stitch on the next row). At the next corner add [YO,K1] once. When you reach the adjoining side you will then have your required stitch multiples to continue full repeats.

Finishing

1. When you have worked the last side and you reach the starting point, you can graft the two ends together with Kitchener stitch if you used a live/provisional CO; otherwise, bind off loosely in pattern (work as if continuing the row: bind off K2, passing each new bound-off stitch over the previous to keep elasticity) or seam overlap with mattress stitch and block flat.
2. Weave in ends.
3. Block carefully to open the lace and shape corners: pin the scallops gently so the corner miter sits at 90°. Use rust-proof pins and a wet or steam-blocking method appropriate for your yarn fiber.

Variations & Tips

• For a more pronounced scallop, work the pattern on a larger needle for the same yarn weight and block more aggressively.
• If your square edge is a crochet edge or chunky garter, pick up more stitches per inch to keep the lace proportional.
• To make a wider edging, repeat the 8-row pattern an additional set of rows that echo the motif (for example repeat Rows 1–8 twice before turning the corner).

Care

Block and care according to the yarn label. Fingering wool benefits from gentle hand washing and air drying flat.

Support & Attribution

Pattern created for personal and small-batch use. For pattern support or questions, visit https://purljam.verde.uk or email team@verde.uk. Share finished work with the tag #purljam.

Created by purlJam with the help of magic AI dust. Shop Verde for patterns and yarn.

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