Low-cut, lightweight trainer socks worked in fingering/sock yarn with a delicate 8-st lace repeat across the instep. Designed to sit just under the ankle so they stay hidden in trainers while giving a little lace detail over the foot. This pattern includes full materials, gauge, multiple sizes, stitch abbreviations and step-by-step instructions (cuff, leg/instep lace, heel flap & gusset, foot, toe, finishing).
Choose size to match foot circumference (unstretched):
Adjust needle size or yarn if your gauge differs.
32 sts = 4" / 10 cm in stockinette on 2.25 mm (US 1) after blocking. (8 sts = 1" / 2.5 cm)
Works over multiples of 8 sts. The repeat is worked on the instep (top of foot). Work rounds for the leg and instep in pattern, work the sole/underfoot in stockinette (knit).
Instep lace round (in the round): *K1, yo, K1, ssk, K2, yo, k2tog* repeat to end of round.
Round following lace round: Knit all sts (to set lace); repeat these two rounds for the lace texture. (This is a 2-round repeat.)
Using smaller needle if you want firmer cuff (optional), cast on:
Join in the round carefully, place marker for beginning of round. Work K1, P1 rib for 6 rounds (or 8 rounds if you prefer a slightly taller cuff). Switch to main needle if you used a smaller needle.
Work lace as follows. You will knit the instep lace across the full round; sole stitches are knit in stockinette but because trainer socks are low cut and narrow, this pattern uses the lace all the way around. If you prefer plain sole, place half the sts on waste yarn and work lace only on instep as described in the Variation notes.
Work the 2-round lace repeat until the leg height measures approx. 1.5–2.0" / 4-5 cm from cast on (short cuff for trainers). Stop when ready to work heel.
Divide for heel: place first half of sts (heel stitches) on needles and remaining half on holder for instep, or continue in the round and mark the midpoints. Standard heel flap method assumes heel is worked across half the total sts (H = total sts / 2).
Example: for 64 sts total, H = 32 sts (heel flap worked over 32 sts).
Heel flap pattern (slip-stitch heel, durable):
Repeat these two rows until you have completed H rows (i.e., work one slipped-stitch row for each stitch in the heel flap; for H=32 work 32 rows). This creates a sturdy heel flap length approximately equal to H / gauge.
Turn heel using standard short-row turning across the heel flap centre. Example sequence (works for any H):
Repeat Rows 2 and 3 until all heel flap stitches are worked and you have a neat heel cup where the center of the flap has been turned and the gaps are closed. (If you prefer, you may follow any detailed ‘heel turn’ W&T instructions you are comfortable with; the above creates a classic rounded heel.)
Once the heel is turned, pick up stitches along the side of the heel flap. Pick up 1 stitch for every slipped ridge (about H/2 picks) along each side of the flap. You will now have:
New stitch total = Heel sts remaining on needle + picked-up sts on both sides + instep sts (on holder) = original total + (two decreases soon will bring you back to original total).
Place marker after the picked-up stitches; resume knitting across instep stitches that were on the holder. You are now ready to shape the gusset.
Gusset round (repeat until you have returned to original total stitch count):
Repeat these two rounds until you have decreased to your original number of stitches (S:56, M:64, L:72, XL:80). After finishing gusset shaping you will have the sock circumference set and instep lace continuing smoothly.
Work even in pattern (lace on instep, stockinette on sole) until the foot length from back of heel measures approx. 1.5–2.0" / 4-5 cm less than the desired total foot length. For example, for a foot target length of 9" aim to begin the toe at ~7-7.5" from heel center. Try socks on or measure against the wearer’s foot.
Start toe shaping when you have approx. 1.5–2" left. Use classic toe decrease (works for any stitch count divisible by 8):
Repeat Rounds A & B until approx. 8-12 sts remain in total (or until toe is short enough). Graft remaining sts using Kitchener stitch to close toe.
Hand wash or machine wash on wool/silk delicate cycle and dry flat. Avoid high heat to protect elastic and lace structure.
If you need clarification or help with a specific step, check our website: https://purljam.verde.uk or email support at team@verde.uk. Share your makes with the hashtag #purljam.
Enjoy your Lace Trainer Socks!