Left-Travelling Rib (2x2) — stitch pattern and how-to

Quick overview: This is a neat textured 2x2 rib that "travels" (slants) to the left across the fabric. It keeps the clear knit-and-purl verticals of a rib but offsets them so the knit columns appear to walk left, creating a subtle diagonal effect. Repeat is a multiple of 4 stitches; the pattern is written for flat knitting (rows) and with notes for knitting in the round.

Materials

• Yarn (sample): Worsted weight (Medium/4). Approx 200 yards / 183 metres per 100 g skein (imperial/metric shown). Substitute: DK or Bulky will change gauge and look; adjust needle size accordingly.
• Needles: Use size to obtain gauge. Common recommendations:
  • US 6 — 4.0 mm — UK 8 (approx)
  • US 7 — 4.5 mm — UK 7 (approx)
  • US 8 — 5.0 mm — UK 6 (approx)
• Extras: tapestry needle for weaving ends, stitch markers (optional), cable needle only if you prefer a cable-based variation.

Gauge (blocked swatch)

Approximately 18 sts x 24 rows = 4" / 10 cm in pattern on US 7 (4.5 mm) with worsted yarn. Your gauge will vary; always swatch in the pattern before committing to sizing.

Abbreviations (US)

• K = knit
• P = purl
• sl1 = slip 1 stitch purlwise
• wyif = with yarn in front
When the pattern says "sl1 purlwise with yarn in front" you move the working yarn to the front as though to purl, slip the stitch purlwise (as if to purl) to the right-hand needle, then continue working the row. This creates the small slipped stitch that shifts the rib.

Pattern notes

• Multiple: 4 sts. Work an even number of repeats for a balanced edge; add selvedge stitches if you want a tidy border.
• Fabric behavior: The slipped stitch on the travelling row is worked with the yarn in front. On the following row the yarn position is adjusted back to continue the rib. This creates the leftward shift.
• When working in the round do the "travelling" row every other round exactly as written for RS rows below; because every round is a right-side round in the round version you will alternate rounds 1 and 3 repeatedly.

Stitch pattern — multiple of 4

Worked flat (rows):

Row 1 (RS): *K2, P2; repeat from * to end.
Row 2 (WS): *K2, P2; repeat from * to end.
Row 3 (RS - travelling row): *Sl1 purlwise with yarn in front (sl1 wyif), K1, P2; repeat from * to end.
Row 4 (WS): *K2, P2; repeat from * to end.
Repeat Rows 1-4 for pattern.

Worked in the round (every round reads RS):

Round 1: *K2, P2; repeat to end.
Round 2: *Sl1 purlwise with yarn in front, K1, P2; repeat to end.
Repeat Rounds 1-2 for pattern. (In the round you alternate these two rounds; the effect is identical to the flat 4-row repeat.)

How it works — brief technique notes

On Row 3 we slip the first stitch of the motif purlwise with the yarn brought to the front before slipping (sl1 wyif). That slipped stitch sits as a purl bump on the surface while the subsequent K1 is worked. The slipped stitch shifts the alignment of the K-columns one stitch to the left. Row 4 (and Row 2) restore the rhythm so the effect appears as a steady leftward travel across the fabric.

Tips and troubleshooting

• If the slipped stitch looks loose, make sure to bring the yarn forward and hold it taut as you slip the stitch purlwise; tension here controls the appearance of the diagonal.
• Edge stitches: If you want a neat vertical edge, add 1-2 garter or seed-stitch selvedge stitches on each side and work those the same on every row.
• Want a stronger diagonal? Move the travelling row to every third or fourth row for a staggered look, or try slipping two stitches (sl2 purlwise wyif) and then working two knits if you want wider travel effect—be mindful that this changes the required multiple and the resulting structure.

Sample project — simple left-travelling rib scarf (one-size, unisex)

Finished size: approximately 8" x 60" (20 cm x 150 cm) after blocking. Adjust length to taste.

Cast on: 40 sts (multiple of 4 x 10 repeats). Use long-tail cast on for a neat, elastic edge.

Setup: Work 6 rows in K2, P2 rib to establish a neat border (optional).
Pattern: Work Rows 1–4 above for pattern until scarf measures desired length, ending after Row 4 for a balanced edge.
Finish: Work 6 rows in K2, P2 rib to match setup (optional). Bind off loosely in pattern (K2, P2 across matching stitches) or use a stretchy bind-off.

Weave in ends and block lightly to open the texture and even the fabric.

Alternative: cable-based left-travelling rib (stronger lean)

If you prefer a more pronounced left slant you can substitute a left cross cable every 4th row: within a 4-st group where the two knit stitches are adjacent, work a 2/2 left cross (slip next 2 sts to cable needle and hold in front, knit next 2, knit 2 from cable needle) in place of the K2 on the travelling row. That produces a more obvious cable-like left movement; make a swatch first because tension and stitch count must be preserved.

Finishing

• Blocking: Gently steam or wet-block to even stitches and set the diagonals.
• Edges: If your bind-off pulls, try a tubular or stretchy bind-off to retain edge elasticity.

Gauge swatch

Cast on 28 sts (7 repeats) and work pattern for at least 4" (10 cm) square, then block and measure. Adjust needle size to match gauge.

Copyright and contact

If you have pattern questions email team@verde.uk. Pattern hosted at https://purljam.verde.uk. Share progress with #purljam on social media.

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