This pattern provides a clear 25-stitch by 35-row color chart of a lightning bolt that you can knit into a small panel, pocket panel, badge, or use as the center motif on a sweater or hat. Two-color stranded or intarsia techniques are explained. Website: https://purljam.verde.uk. Support: team@verde.uk. Socials: #purljam
Using DK/light-worsted yarn at the recommended gauge (see below), the motif block will be approximately 4.5" (w) x 5" (h) / 11.5cm x 12.5cm. Size will change with yarn/needle gauge.
Stockinette gauge (after blocking), approximate: 22 sts x 28 rows = 4" / 10cm (DK on US 6/4.0mm). Always swatch in colorwork to check gauge.
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Rows are listed top-to-bottom exactly as you will work them on the chart. Each line in the
block is exactly 25 characters (25 stitches).How to read the chart
- For flat knitting (back-and-forth): Read odd-numbered chart rows (1,3,5,...) from right to left (these are RS rows). Read even-numbered chart rows (2,4,6,...) from left to right (these are WS rows).
- For knitting in the round: Read every row right to left; if knitting in the round you may need to adapt border rows to avoid curling (add garter or seed stitch rounds).Suggested panel setup
To stop the edges from curling and to frame the motif, add a garter or seed-stitch border of 1/2" (approx 6 sts) either side (or i-cord edges). Example cast-on: 25 sts (chart) + 2 border sts each side = 29 sts total. Work 6 rows garter for border, then work chart rows 1-35, then 6 rows garter, bind off loosely.
Techniques: stranded vs intarsia
- If the CC areas are long horizontal runs (they are mostly narrow in this chart), stranded (Fair Isle) knitting across the row is simplest: carry the unused color across the back, catching floats every 3-5 sts to secure them. Keep floats loose to avoid puckering. - If you prefer not to carry long floats, use intarsia for the larger, isolated blocks of CC: wind short lengths of CC onto bobbins and twist yarns at color joins to avoid holes. - Hybrid approach: use intarsia for sections where the CC block is 5+ stitches wide, and stranded for single- or 2-stitch color changes. - Always twist yarns at color change when the colors swap to avoid ladder gaps: bring the next color under the previous color (or twist once) before knitting first stitch of new color.
Step-by-step (flat panel example)
- Cast on 29 stitches (2 border sts each side + 25 chart sts). Join a marker to indicate RS if you like.
- Work 6 rows garter stitch (knit every row) for bottom border, ending with RS facing.
- Work chart rows 1–35 following the reading directions above. Carry floats no more than 4-5 sts; or use bobbins for intarsia patches. Keep CC tension slightly looser than MC to avoid puckering.
- After completing row 35 of the chart, work 6 rows garter stitch in MC for top border, then bind off loosely in pattern or with a stretchy bind-off.
- Weave in ends with a tapestry needle. If floats are carried across the back, you may leave them and only secure at intervals, or tack them down close to the color change using a few small stitches with MC.
- Block gently to even the fabric: soak in lukewarm water with mild wool wash, gently squeeze (do not wring), roll in towel to remove excess water, pin to shape and let dry.
Alternatives
- Puckering: use a larger needle or loosen floats by keeping CC a bit longer between stitches.
- Loose stitches at color join: always twist (or wrap) yarns when switching colors on the same stitch to avoid holes.
This chart is provided by PurlJam at purljam.verde.uk. You may use this chart for personal and small commercial use but please credit PurlJam when selling finished items that use this chart. Contact: team@verde.uk.
If you want the chart adapted to a different stitch gauge, yarn weight, or larger motif (for a sweater front), reply with your target width and yarn and I’ll provide adjusted stitch counts and a scaled chart.