Lightweight Dark Academia Blouse - Knitting Pattern

Design notes: A refined, lightweight top-down raglan blouse with a delicate ladder-lace yoke and clean stockinette body. Works well in breathable fingering or light sport weight yarn for an elegant drape suited to the dark academia aesthetic. Skill level: Intermediate (comfortable with raglan increases, lace repeats, short-row shaping optional).

Sizes (finished bust)

• XS: 34 in / 86 cm
• S: 38 in / 97 cm
• M: 42 in / 107 cm
• L: 46 in / 117 cm
• XL: 50 in / 127 cm

Positive ease built in: 2-4 in / 5-10 cm depending on size; wear closer or looser by choosing yarn/needle adjustments.

Materials

• Yarn: Fingering weight (recommended) or light sport. Suggested: 100% wool or wool-silk blend for drape. Approximate yardage: XS 1150 yd / 1050 m, S 1300 yd / 1185 m, M 1450 yd / 1325 m, L 1600 yd / 1460 m, XL 1750 yd / 1595 m. Typical skein example: 400 yd / 366 m per 100 g (imperial and metric given).
• Needles (circulars for magic loop or long circulars plus DPNs as needed): Main needles for body: US 4 (3.5 mm, UK 9 old). Alternate/option for denser gauge: US 3 (3.25 mm, UK 10 old). For ribbing/neck: US 3 (3.25 mm, UK 10 old). For a slightly looser drape you may use US 5 (3.75 mm, UK 8 old). Include 16 in / 40 cm and 24-32 in / 60-80 cm circulars depending on your technique.
• Notions: stitch markers (4 raglan markers + 1 for pattern repeat), scrap yarn or waste yarn for sleeve holders, tapestry needle, stitch holders or spare circular, blocking pins or wires, measuring tape, optional 3–5 small buttons (if adding a back keyhole closure), removable marker for beginning of round.

Gauge

20 sts x 28 rounds = 4 in / 10 cm in stockinette on US 4 (3.5 mm). For the lace yoke gauge use the same needle; lace opens slightly when blocked. Always knit a full gauge swatch in the stitch pattern you plan to use and block it.

Abbreviations (US terms)

• K: knit
• P: purl
• k2tog: knit two together (right-leaning decrease)
• ssk: slip, slip, knit (left-leaning decrease)
• yo: yarn over
• pm: place marker
• sm: slip marker
• M1L / M1R: make one left/right (lift bar from previous row and knit through back or front loop as noted)
• RS: right side, WS: wrong side

Stitch Patterns

Ladder Lace (8-row repeat, multiple of 8):

1. Row 1 (RS): *k2, yo, k2tog, k2; repeat from * to end.
2. Row 2 (WS): purl all sts.
3. Row 3: *k2, k2tog, yo, k2; repeat from *.
4. Row 4: purl all sts.
5. Row 5: *k3, yo, k2tog, k1; repeat.
6. Row 6: purl all sts.
7. Row 7: *k1, yo, k2tog, k3; repeat.
8. Row 8: purl all sts.

Note: The lace is intentionally airy but repeats are offset so increases on raglan lines sit between lace motifs. If you prefer a simpler yoke, substitute a 1x1 rib or simple eyelet row pattern.

Yoke Construction (Top-Down Raglan with Lace)

Cast on and set-up:

1. Using smaller needles (US 3 / 3.25 mm), provisional or regular cast-on: XS 88 sts, S 96 sts, M 104 sts, L 112 sts, XL 120 sts. Join carefully to work in the round, placing a marker for beginning of round.
2. Knit 1x1 rib (k1, p1) for 1.25 in / 3 cm or to your preferred neck depth.
3. Switch to main needles (US 4 / 3.5 mm). Place four raglan markers dividing work into 4 sections: Front, Sleeve1, Back, Sleeve2. Insert markers so sections are as even as possible (initially cast-on count divided by 4 gives initial section sizes).

Begin raglan increase rounds with ladder-lace incorporated:

1. Set-up round (RS): Work lace pattern across each body/slee section, keeping raglan marker positions clear.
2. Increase round (every right side round): *Work to 1 st before marker, M1R, k1, sm, k1, M1L; repeat for each raglan marker; work remainder of round in lace pattern.* This increases 8 sts per full increase round (2 at each raglan).
3. Work one plain lace round (or a purl round on WS) between increase rounds so lace pattern remains readable. In short: increase round, then follow-up lace/WS round, then repeat increase round sequence.

Work increase pairs (increase round + inter-row) until either:

• Yoke depth from cast-on edge measures: XS 8 in / 20 cm, S 8.5 in / 21.5 cm, M 9 in / 23 cm, L 9.5 in / 24 cm, XL 10 in / 25.5 cm; OR
• You reach these total stitch counts (after finishing that paired increase set): XS ~192 sts, S ~216 sts, M ~232 sts, L ~256 sts, XL ~280 sts.

These totals are approximate; measure against your body and intended ease. If you need a longer or shorter yoke (higher or lower armhole), add or remove paired increases. Each paired increase set yields +8 sts total.

Separate Body and Sleeves

1. When yoke is complete, place sleeve stitches on waste yarn or stitch holders: Slip sleeve section stitches (the ones between the raglan markers corresponding to sleeves) to holders. Place a marker at each junction if not already done.
2. Join body in the round by knitting across front + back sections, removing raglan markers at the underarm. You will now work the body in the round. Count your body stitches to confirm desired circumference.

Body

1. Work in stockinette (knit every round) until body measures 16 in / 41 cm from underarm to desired hem length for a tunic-length blouse adjust to 18-20 in / 46-51 cm as preferred. For a slightly A-line silhouette, on the first round after separation increase 4 evenly spaced stitches around the body, then repeat these small increases every 6 rows 2-3 times (optional).
2. Work 1.25 in / 3 cm of 1x1 rib for hem using smaller needles (US 3 / 3.25 mm). Bind off loosely in rib.

Sleeves

1. Return sleeve sts to needles. Join in the round and pick up 1 extra stitch at each underarm join to avoid gaps (optional).
2. Work in stockinette in the round decreasing gently for a fitted cuff if desired: decrease 2 sts evenly around every 8th round until sleeve is your desired circumference (typical finished sleeve circumference at wrist: 6-8 in / 15-20 cm for a close cuff, or 8-10 in / 20-25 cm for a looser 3/4 sleeve option). Alternatively, keep the sleeve straight for a relaxed fit.
3. Work until sleeve measures full length from underarm: full sleeve 17.5 in / 44.5 cm (or 13 in / 33 cm for 3/4). Work 1.25 in / 3 cm of 1x1 rib with small needles and bind off loosely.

Optional Short-Row Bust/Shoulder Shaping

For better bust fit, you can add short rows to the front body after separating sleeves: on a right-side round, work to the center front, wrap and turn for several rows to add ease. Typical short-row sequence: wrap and turn at 2,4,6,8 sts from center front, then pick up wraps on return rows. Use equal number of short rows for symmetry; blocks and stitch patterns will hide joins.

Finishing

1. Weave in ends with tapestry needle.
2. Block garment to finished measurements: soak gently in lukewarm water with wool wash, squeeze without wringing, lay flat and pin to measurements. Allow to dry completely. Lace will open nicely on blocking.
3. Neck finishing options: I-cord bind off for a neat rounded edge or simple bind-off in pattern. If you want a small keyhole at back neck, work a button loop and sew on a small button.
4. Sew up any small gaps under the arms if you used a gapless join method but notice holes.

Notes and Fit Adjustments

• To change ease: alter needle size or add/subtract increase rounds during yoke. Larger needles = more positive ease; smaller for a closer fit.
• To convert to 3/4 sleeve: stop sleeves at 13 in / 33 cm from underarm and finish rib as above.
• If your lace pattern and raglan increases create crowded stitches at marker lines, move the lace repeat over by 1 stitch so increases fall in a plain column—this keeps raglan line clean.

Schematic Measurements (approx)

• Neck-to-underarm (yoke depth): XS 8 in / 20 cm; S 8.5 in / 21.5 cm; M 9 in / 23 cm; L 9.5 in / 24 cm; XL 10 in / 25.5 cm.
• Body length from underarm to hem: 16 in / 41 cm (adjustable).
• Sleeve length from underarm: 17.5 in / 44.5 cm (full), 13 in / 33 cm (3/4 option).

Troubleshooting & Tips

• Knit a sweater-sized gauge swatch in the lace stitch and block it before committing to the project.
• If gauge is off, change needle size and recalc expected stitch totals using gauge formula: desired circumference in inches x (sts per inch from your blocked swatch) = target total stitches. Use (target - current cast-on) / 8 to estimate paired increase rounds needed.
• Use smooth yarn for lace definition; a halo yarn will soften the lace and may obscure pattern detail.

Pattern support and updates are available at https://purljam.verde.uk. If you have questions or need help measuring or adapting the pattern, email team@verde.uk. Share your makes and process with the community: tag #purljam on socials.

Enjoy knitting your lightweight dark academia blouse — thoughtful, wearable, and a little scholarly.

Created by purlJam with the help of magic AI dust. Shop Verde for patterns and yarn.

Disclaimer: Enjoy the fun! Accuracy of patterns cannot be guaranteed. Remember to use and share content responsibly when engaging with this AI-powered app.