Solis Sunlace Beaded Shawl (24\" x 60\")

Light, drapey rectangular shawl worked flat in Malabrigo Sock (colorway Solis) with an intricate 4-row lace repeat and a delicate beaded accent pattern. Knit for a floating, open fabric that blocks beautifully and wears easily over shoulders or wrapped as a scarf.

Finished measurements

• Width (wingspan): 60 inches / 152 cm
• Depth (center to top edge): 24 inches / 61 cm

Yarn

• Malabrigo Sock, colorway Solis — fingering weight (4 ply)
• Skein size: 100 g = approx. 440 yd / 402 m (Imperial & Metric given)
• Amount: 3 skeins (approx. 300 g; approx. 1320 yd / 1206 m). Buy one extra skein if you prefer a deeper border or heavier beading.

Needles & notions

• Circular needles, 32 in / 80 cm recommended. Two options: US 5 (3.75 mm) / UK (Old) 9 or US 6 (4.0 mm) / UK (Old) 8 for a more open drape. Metric: 3.75 mm or 4.0 mm. (Both sizes: 32\" / 80 cm length; you can use 24\" / 60 cm if you prefer working narrower then switch to longer for binding off.)
• Beads: Czech glass seed beads size 8/0 (approx 3 mm). Approximate bead count: 350–500 beads (see bead placement notes below). If you like heavier beading buy 600–800 beads.
• Bead placement tools: a size 0.6 mm steel crochet hook (or dedicated beading hook) or a fine beading needle and thin beading thread. Small blunt tapestry needle for weaving ends, stitch markers, row counter, waste yarn for provisional cast-on (optional).

Gauge

20 sts = 4 inches / 10 cm in pattern stitch on US 5 (3.75 mm) after blocking. Row gauge will vary with lace openness; always swatch and block to check. Adjust needle size to match gauge and desired drape.

Abbreviations

• K = knit
• P = purl
• YO = yarn over
• K2tog = knit two together (right-leaning decrease)
• SSK = slip, slip, knit (left-leaning decrease)
• RS = right side
• WS = wrong side
• St(s) = stitch(es)
• Rep = repeat

Structure & stitch math

This pattern is worked flat as a rectangle. Cast on a total number of stitches to give the finished wingspan; the sample uses a precise cast-on that matches the stated measurements at the sample gauge:

• Cast on: 300 sts total
• Edge: 10 sts garter border on each side (20 sts total)
• Body: 280 sts center lace section = 28 repeats of the 10-stitch lace repeat

If your personal gauge differs, cast on (your gauge sts/inch × 60 inches) and make the center number a multiple of 10, keeping 10 sts for each side garter border.

Cast-on & beginning

1. Cast on 300 sts with a long-tail cast-on (or your preferred elastic cast-on). Place a removable marker for the beginning if desired.
2. Work garter border: Knit 6 rows (3 garter ridges) to form a tidy top edge.

Pattern layout

Edge 10 sts garter at each side throughout (these are knitted on every row). The center section is worked in the 10-stitch lace repeat given below; repeat across the center 280 sts (28 repeats across).

Lace pattern (10-stitch repeat, 4-row repeat)

Row 1 (RS): K1, *YO, K1, K2tog, K4, SSK, K1*  (repeat to last 1 st, K1)
Row 2 (WS): Purl all sts
Row 3 (RS): K1, *K1, YO, K2tog, K3, SSK, YO, K1*  (repeat to last 1 st, K1)
Row 4 (WS): Purl all sts
Repeat Rows 1–4 for pattern.

Notes on the lace: Each 10-stitch repeat contains two YOs and two decreases so stitch count across each repeat remains constant. Rows 2 and 4 are plain purl rows to set the lace and keep the fabric flexible.

Bead placement (design overview)

Beads are used as a subtle highlight on the vertical motif centers. To keep the bead count manageable while creating an intricate look, bead the central YO of each lace repeat on every 4th vertical pattern repeat (i.e., every 16 rows of lace). This creates dotted vertical columns of beads through the shawl body without overweighing the fabric.

Estimated bead usage: Horizontal repeats across = 28 beads per beaded row. Vertical beaded rows across the length (approx): 12–16 beaded rows depending on final row count. Total beads ≈ 336–448. Buy ~500 beads to be safe (extra for mistakes). If you prefer beads on every lace row, plan for 1,000+ beads.

How to add beads

1. Pre-string beads onto your yarn tail before you begin, or keep a length of beading thread and a beading needle to add beads as you go. If you pre-string, slide beads along the yarn when you reach the stitch where a bead is required.
2. To place a bead on a single stitch: when you reach the stitch that should have a bead, use a small crochet hook (0.6 mm) to pull the bead up over the working yarn and place it next to the stitch on the needle. Then work the stitch (k or p) so the bead sits on the outside of the fabric.
3. Alternatively, use a beading needle and thread to add beads after knitting: pull the thread through the bead and catch the stitch where the bead should sit, then tie or secure the bead snugly at the base of the stitch. Pre-stringing is faster for many beads; post-beading gives more control but is slower.

Work the body

1. After the garter border, begin Lace Pattern Rows 1–4 across the center repeats, keeping the edge 10 sts (Garter Edge) at each side, knitted on every row.
2. Placement: On each RS row when you arrive at the central YO of a repeat on the rows you have designated as beaded rows (every 4th vertical repeat or as you prefer), slide one bead up and work the stitch so the bead nests on the outside of the fabric.
3. Continue repeating Rows 1–4 (with bead rows inserted at the chosen vertical interval) until the piece measures 24 inches / 61 cm from the cast-on edge, ending after a WS row if possible.

Finishing

1. Work garter border: Knit 6 rows (3 garter ridges) to match the cast-on edge.
2. Bind off loosely in pattern (for example, knit the knit sts and slip the first st over the second rather than a rigid bind-off; or use a stretchy bind-off like Jeny\'s Surprisingly Stretchy Bind-Off for a softer edge).
3. Weave in ends with a tapestry needle. Secure beads' tails as needed with a small knot or a dab of clear craft glue on the thread inside the fabric if desired (wash-safe glue recommended).

Blocking

Soak shawl in lukewarm water with a little wool wash, gently squeeze out excess water (do not wring). Lay flat on blocking mats, pin to the exact dimensions (60\" x 24\"). Beads will help weigh motifs open; place pins to open lace evenly. Allow to dry completely.

Variations & tips

• Smaller or larger: change cast-on based on your personal gauge (cast on gauge sts/inch × desired width) keeping center multiple-of-10 plus 20 edge sts.
• To increase drape, go up to US 6 (4.0 mm). To tighten the lace for a warmer shawl, drop to US 4 (3.5 mm) and increase yarn if necessary to keep length.
• For heavier beading, add beads to every RS YO or bead both YOs in the repeat; plan for many more beads.
• For an alternate finish, add a fringe with beaded strands: cut yarn lengths double and attach with lark\'s head knots, adding 1–3 beads to each strand before knotting.

Abbreviated row counts & checkpoints

After cast-on: 300 sts. After garter border: remain 300 sts. Each lace row pair (Rows 1–4) preserves stitch count. Check every 10–12 rows to make sure stitches balance: your stitch count should remain 300 unless you added/remedied mistakes.

Notes on colorway & beads

Solis is a bright, variegated colorway with tonal shifts that pair beautifully with glass seed beads. Use transparent or matte Czech 8/0 beads to let color shift show; metallic beads add sparkle but will change drape slightly.

Support

Pattern and help: https://purljam.verde.uk. Email: team@verde.uk. Socials: #purljam

Happy knitting! If you want the pattern adjusted for a triangular shawl, deeper depth, or a full-bead version, I can provide a modification.

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